Enticing VisitorsRich Englishmen, Americans and southern Europeans came to Norway for salmon fishing in the late 1800 early 1900. This replica of a poster hangs in Flaam but Bergen was the Gateway.
Bergen One
The story in a peanut shell: 159km from Flaam by bus, walk to the hostel from the bus terminal, get organized in room, go out to dfind hairdresser and food, return to eat and go on Skype , go out to the movies, find my way back at the night time, find room mate, sleep well in Ikea bunk bed.
Here's the whole papaya:
The day began at 05:30 because I was most anxious about reaching the 09:30 bus in good time. Had packed and needed only to put away my toothbrush and the laundry hanging from the curtain rail over the heater. The tilly's underwear ARE drying overnight.
At breakfast I saw the men who work all night at refurbishing the tunnel. The tunnel is closed from 21:00 till 07:00 every night till April 2010 ...do noy know how long they have been working but am happy that I made my reservations for Heimley Pensonjat last year. And I had a room on the 'good' side.
The food offered was exactly the same every morning ... enough to put one off eating ... the coffee was always lukewarm, in a thermos, and
not strong enough.The best part about breakfast was the caramel coloured goat cheese ...gets to be that colour because the milk is boiled for a long time.
Strapped myself into my packs and headed off down the road to the bus stop. Was in good time and finished my postcard writing. Spoke to Trude again and she told me all about the closing ofthe post offices. Sounds like Canada where most of the post office service is now franchised to small business.
Six of us get on the bus. Five get off at Gudvangen. The bus continues picking up and dropping people all along the159km to Bergen.
The scenery included green fields dotted with sheep; wild forest of spruce and pine; stark rock formations; huge boulders deposited by glacial; other massive blocks that have evidently fallen away from the faces ridges; small villages set up for summer visitors; rapids and fast flowing rivers; hotels,bus stops and hay bales.
Bergen bus terminal a maze of arriving busses and constructions. After checking with the Info girl I am on my way to the Gestjhus. On the way meet a woman from Montreal who as a year to travel
and is staying two days at a time in places ????? too much carting around of luggages and no chance to meet people who will invite you to dinner.
The Gestjhus is pleasant on the fourth floor up an ancient elevator made of wood. No escape hatch at the top. The mechanism has been replaced from the 1930 equipment. An Otis it is not. From the web page:
"From NOK 175,- per pers.
Marken Gjestehus is centrally located and reasonably priced guesthouse, for travellers who want to spend their money on other things than sleeping! With its location in the city centre, its an excellent base to explore and enjoy a beautiful and historical city, packed with cultural events, shopping and other leisure activities."
Because the length of my hair at the turtle neckline is killing me I notice that the girl at reception has a great haircut. Her friend did it at home. She suggest a place I can go to.
After putting the pack into the locker I am off with map in hand.Find the hairdresser. Walk to the much reduced market area ... everything has a season and it ends September30.Begins again in May.
Am already making a list of what I am missing ... all this for the price of a single supplement on the ship ... since that comes to almost $800 I suppose it is worth it.
Stalheim, Stavanger and Soerfjorden are on the list ... all inaccesible because of end of season ... The Tourist Info said all walking tours and boat trips are closed for the season.
There were a number of places open in the market area. Not much but obviously necessary for the locals.
At one stall did see fish for sale; monk fish ... may get some to cook Thursday, reconstituted cod;, smoked salmon and about seven others I do not recognize.
Vendors had flowers from Holland for sale. At NOK99 plan to treat myself to friesias o0n Friday. After all, its a Bon Voyage occasion! My last and only other bon voyage was when I came by boat to Canada in that other century!
Fish and chips, fish sandwiches and coffee were on offer. The prices are to either shudder or laugh at. How can a simple bun with some shrimps on it cost NOK67? Chinese Food costs NOK 169 for chicken fried rice. Wonton Soup is going for NOK175. Divide all these numbers by 5 and you lose your hunger!
Looked at the menu for other restaurants and the prices were much the same as my extravagance in Flaam. The lamb or roast beef dinner here in Bergen is going for Nok350 and a chicken burger at MacDonalds is priced at NOK85. Where would yourather spend your money. Better one real lamb dinner than four (fill in your own adjective) burgers.
After not spending a NOK at the market Iimade my way to the grocery store becaus eit was 14:00 and I had had (what tense is that in Spanish or english for that matter?) nothing to eat since that repetitive breakfast of salami,goat cheese, two whole wheat slices of toast bread, slivers of red pepper and some cuke rounds. No coffee... had filled up on orange juice and milk.
The grocery store was well stocked:
eggs,$2.00 for six,
one bun the size of your palm for $1.61,
milk$3.00 a liter,
slivered ham at half price from $8.00,
one small onion $0.16, fincrisps $2.00,
AVOCADO $2.34,
packet of pea soup ... like Knorr - add water and milk for $5.03...
a triangle of brie cheese $7.00 ,
and a third kg of tomatoes for $2.30.
The bill came to NOK 150.82. I will have some left overs. And I will be eating breakfast lunch and dinner at the Gestjhus. Well lunch I will carry with me.
Shopping finished, I found my way easily back to the hostel/hotel.
Its a hostel with four bunkbeds in a room. I did not choose the room with ten beds... bin there ...done that! Its a difference in price ... Nok175 for ten beds... NOK 220 for four beds. One other woman is in the room... very pleasant ...from Italy... speaks English .. only staying for one ... with luck will have the room to myself for the rest of the week..
Cooked the pea soup, ate the fleischsalat, drank coffee, cleaned up after myself ... this is very important in a hostel! ... and went to the movies. "Coco avant Chanel" un film en francais con los subtitles en Norwegian!! I once saw "Padre Padrone", an Italian film with Dutch subtitles ...now that was interesting!
The movie house has 14 theatres. Seniors enter at a reduced price . ..the toilets are in the basement ...women to the right ..men to the left ... of the stairs .... there is a lot of candy and snacks for sale so much so that it was a search to where the entrance to number 12 was. Regular price for the movie seems to be NOK95. I had forgotten my map at the cash and when Ii went back to retrieve it I noticed the sign about seniors ... so I asked about it and she gave me my map and NOK60 ... that's quite a saving... will go to the movies again.
Found my way back in the dark ...well there are street lights! Passed the train station. Will be going there to get my tickets for Oslo and Stockholm. Doing it now will ease the anxiety created while standing in line withh my pack on my back.
When I returned I met the Italian woman downstairs. After 16:30 the doors to the hostel are locked and only with the swipe card can one enter the building and the hall way and ones room. A key is provided fot the locker. Have not asked what happens if one locks oneself out side the room without the swipe card. Those guests arriving after hours have to go to the corner Billiard Hall to pick up an envelope with a swipe card in it. And that is only for guests who have made a reservation .
The day came to an end with blog writing, WiFi-ing and warning the woman about my snoring. Had a great shower and slept very well in a sagging IKEA kids bunkbed! ... you know the silver one with the guard rail on the top bunk. Still listening to Norwegian Radio ... may yet get the hang of the language ...filled out a survey sheet on the bus concerning quality of service ... at least I hope that's what it was .