Day 5. Cruising to Palanderbukta and walking on the side of a glacier. No chance of walking on the front lest it collapse. That afternoon we went to the Alkerfjellet bird cliffs. Massive basalt columns with literally tens of thousands of nesting little auk pairs, with their new summer babies. Perhaps 180,000 birds all together.
The go here is that mum and dad push the babies off the cliff and they flop into the water as they can't yet fly. Dad then dives in, finds the kid (and there are thousands and they all look the same). They then spend the next month IN THE WATER, and start their migration south by paddling!
I did manage this experience without being crapped on, but the smell is still in the parka!