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Published: August 29th 2009
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this is about yesterday 28 August:
as I already told you I arrived into Riga on the 6.45am bus from Tartu at 10.45 - walked to the LP recommended Krisjanis & Gertrudas B&B. After a blog update - and more importantly a nap - i was knackered after the early start and less sleep the night before - I was finally out the door for a walk. Headed down Gertrudas iela where K&G is towards the Art Nouveau are the other side of Brivibas which is where the fancy area of Riga begins - embassies and that sort of thing. As you can see in the pix started running into Art Nouveau on buildings without even going as far as the LP suggested walk!
After a while - no eaties since 7am - decided to check out the LP eating recommendations in the area - and warning! - from the May 2009 edition - these appear to be dead/temp. closed. I posted this on the Thorn tree for those silly enough to try LP recommendations. The HOSPITALIS place at Stabu iela 14- with meals served on a hospital gurney etc, and which was the hottest thing in summer 2008 -
accdg to LP - now has the "for lease" sign up and definitely CLOSED (sounds like Sydney - what becomes HOT becomes COLD just as quick, with a novel idea only to keep it going). I then went in search of ARAGATS, the big LP "Our Pick" in Central Riga - and Friday night that was also closed - no apparent reason - no sign in the window with dates in Latvian saying for summer holidays etc. The other annoying thing I would have to say about the LP Baltics guide - never trust the map when it says 250m. off the map (and actual street not shown)- I walked around the block twice trying to find the damn street, Miera iela - the LP does not say it splits off Brivibas to the left going E - unless you find it on another map you will be as frustrated as I was (apart from the fact it was completely closed with no apparent reason).
Anyway I ended up eating at TIRAMISU at Gertudas 32 just across the road from K&G - and could have saved myself the considerable walk - apart from the views of Art Nouveau bldgs
of course. There was another italian restuarant further up Gertrudas with 20% off - suspicious, partic. on a Friday, as distinct from a Tues. say Tiramisu is the real deal - the simple grilled chicken breast on a chanterelle (mushrooms - in season) risotto was virtually perfect and I think the best chicken I have eaten in a very long time, almost ever, it was that good - so a definite recommendation. The fish soup was huge - but really only had those tiny tiny baby clams in it and some bits of calamari and lots of tomato and also fennel. However the chicken truly ruly made up for iti. OK it was late - after 9pm when I arrived, but not many people there - the in Your Pocket guide classes it as "upmarket" - but the soup was c15AUD - minestrone c 10AUD - the chicken was c $18 - other beef/meat dishes were 50% more expensive though. They did not have pears and gorgonzola for dessert - number of things seemed "off" - so it was coffee and an amaretto for dessert instead. A ridiculous macchiato - the foamiest I have ever seen! - a veritable mini-cappuccino
Riga - Art Nouveau 4
on square in front of Old St Gertrudas church - AA Gill does definitely not approve!
Having come here from a few days in Estonia I would have to say that my initial impression is that Latvia appears to be suffering the Recession worse - no people out spending etc - not many people in restaurants on a Friday night etc.
Now to those pix. I was doing some research here at K&G's in Latvian (well she was) with the young woman who is minding the place to try and track down friend Sandi's Mum's location here - another part of my secret mission in a couple of days. Have decided a plan of action girls which will be subject of PM. Better get out of the weefee bubble and go outside! - but it was actually soft rain a while ago - hopefully clearing.
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