Macedonia...

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It’s not every day that I get to travel to the Republic of Macedonia, in fact this was the first time and guaranteed to be the last. Incredibly we are located very close to the border and for business purposes we can cross over, but really can’t be hanging around.

As we started on our journey the skies were overcast, so when we drove along the streets of Kosovo it was easy to notice the dingy, dirty trash laden sides of the pot holed roads. The gray sky did nothing to enhance the beautiful country side, as the many shades of greens that are usually reflected in the grasses and trees just seemed to get lost by the ever present signs of destruction.

We were traveling with an interpreter who was more than eager to explain bits and pieces of the history of Kosovo and to boast proudly of his home in Macedonia. As we approached the border it didn’t look like any other border; long lines going both in and out of Kosovo, border guards that didn’t smile and a very distinct difference in the view looking back at Kosovo and looking forward into Macedonia.

Being a soldier we didn’t mingle in with the general population to cross over, we instead had to go through a checkpoint with a soldier from Ukraine who gave me a smirk as I chatted non-stop when he was checking our identification. I’m positive he understood not a word of English and was probably wishing I would just shut up and let him do his job!

Quickly we reached our destination. Skopje, the capital of Macedonia is viewed as the strategic center of the Balkans because it links the east to the west, and the north to the south. The city is home to approximately 700,000 people which equates to about a third of the total population of Macedonia. It is located in the Skopje Valley and is about 21 miles long and 12 miles wide, so as you can see it covers quite an expansive area. You can see the mountain ranges on both the north and south sides of the city and the Varda River runs through the center of the city providing a very surreal backdrop to a city that bears a very turbulent history during both peace and the frequent periods of war.

Amazingly, the city appears very modern and the culture is very apparent as we drive along the city streets. Skopje itself has seen setbacks throughout history. It was once viewed as the largest and richest city of the Ottoman Empire during the 16th and 17th centuries, that is until it was completely destroyed by an earthquake. This was the third time in 100 years that nature had crumbled the city. After rebuilding, the Austrians burned the city down in 1869 and again the countrymen rebuilt. You would think with so many strikes against a single city that they would give up and move on. But perseverance must be a part of their culture and sadly once again a devastating earthquake in 1963 crippled over 85% of Skopje, leaving very few landmarks and historical buildings. So I suppose that the city looks very modern because in recent history they have had to rebuild and with this final restoration it brought a colorful beauty to the infrastructure in this capital city.

We were in Skopje for medical appointments so were able to experience the professionalism of the local community. In many ways crossing the border added a sophistication to the people. Unemployment was not nearly as high as in Kosovo, the streets were not as nasty and crowded with trash fires, and people drove cars that were more modern and there were fewer buses being used for public transportation.

Dobie and I had the opportunity to walk along the Varda River, which was nice to see some locals fishing and walking along the dirt boardwalk that stretched for as far as the eye could see. The speed of the current was extremely fast and looked like it would be fun to have a kayak on a nice summer’s day.

After our appointments were complete and we headed for home (back to Kosovo) we took the long route winding back through the city streets during rush hour traffic. The sky had cleared up and for a bit of time it was a vibrant blue and utterly beautiful. As we passed the St. Kliment Ohridski Church it was a spectacular example of architectural brilliance as it is totally composed of domes and arches. The orthodox church was built about 30 years ago and showed a very modern side of the religious culture while only a few miles down the road was a example of medieval times at the Skopje Fortress. Throughout history it had been built and destroyed many times and now stands as a reminder of the past. As we drove by I could still see the cannons mounted on the tops of the walls and could only imagine how much action they got against their enemies from around the world. Skopje’s historic background includes a time period from the 13th century to the early 1900’s when they were part of the Turkish empire, and then under Serbian rule, and then the Bulgarians and then part of Yugoslavia. So my guess is that when they became an independent country in 1991 it was a joyous time for all the citizens of Macedonia.

Not to think that this city was any different than any others around the world. There we were, driving like it was nobody’s business and we stopped at a red light and I was busy snapping pictures and admiring the sights when out of nowhere this man jumped in front of our car and was on our windshield. For a split second it was startling and not sure what was going on. Why would anybody in their right mind mess with military people in a foreign country? But it soon became clear. Before we could say a single word he had started washing our windows. The light had turned green, we couldn’t move because then we would have accidently bumped him and who knows what kind of ruckus that would have caused. So we dug deep into our pockets for some money, and our interpreter started yelling at us not to pay him in Euros, that that would be over paying him and then all they beggars would rush to our car. The interpreter had some Dinar (Macedonian currency) and threw it out the window and then our driver tried to roll it up only to have the beggar thrust his hand inside the car and then of course the window wouldn’t close because his arm was stuck.

We looked at each other, the interpreter is wildly waving and yelling at the man and the man appears desperate and refuses to take his arm out of the window. We try inching the car forward but the dude was more than willing to walk beside us, apparently he really was not satisfied with the amount of money we offered. So the passenger took the steering wheel, the driver sped up a tad, rolled down the window and then shoved the beggars hand out of our vehicle. He continued with us for a few more feet, begging outside the window with pleading eyes and was doing everything in his power to acquire more moola from the rich Americans. There is a fine line between being sensitive and finding yourself in an awkward position.

I suppose that around the world many have the same issues. To live in a beautiful city and yet not having enough assets to support your basic needs. To see visitors on your friendly streets and want something from them. I suppose that it’s normal. Normal to be hungry. Normal to not have a home. Normal to see Soldiers as a daily part of your life because your world is not peaceful and safe for everybody. Well it’s not normal for me. If I could feed the world I would. If I could ensure that every child had the opportunity to attend school I would.

One thing for sure. I can’t help many, if any at all. But I sure can remember the sights and sounds in my memories and pass on the stories of people who are not as lucky as I am. It’s amazing how far a little attention and a smile can go.

It’s great to be part of the Peacekeepers…

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