Venice: Avoid the tourists but see the beauty

Three Must See Places In Venice

While visiting Venice, I experienced the true meaning of discovery. Sure, I followed the maps and the mobs to San Marcos Square and Rialto Bridge, but that wasn't what I will remember about my travels. I will remember taking the time to get lost a little, because that is when you find the gems of the city.
On my wanders, there were three places that stuck out from all the rest: San Giovanni e Paolo, Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, and Isola di San Michele. These monuments are captivating and beautiful, and cannot be missed.


Santa Giovanni e Paolo and Campo

When you come upon the Church of Santa Giovanni e Paolo from the sea, a massive gothic facade with seemingly ancient splendor will stand towering in front of you. The central part of the facade rises up above the outer sections toward three white spires, and hosts an enormous circular window. Parts of the brick facade look to be decaying and falling apart, and signs of timeless weathering show itself in dark stains and in eroding edges. What will amaze you more is when you walk around to the side of the church, and see the true size of this building. The brick walling seems endless as it stretched further back with tall windows between columns and a dome that is barely relevant over the sheer side of the building beneath it. It’s no wonder that it took from 1246 until 1430 to complete this building. Since its completion, it has been used for all of the Doges’ funerals, and to house their mortal remains. The inside is almost as impressive as its exterior. There are eight chapels around the presbytery, as well as tombs, monuments, and murals, which are all worth a specific visit. Every tomb that sits under the giant ceiling has many small detailed figured, usually containing the Doge and either Madonna, a Saint, or the representations of the virtues.

After seeing the church, take some time to notice the surroundings as well. The campo is one of the most interesting in Venice. Attached to the San Giovanna e Paolo’s left side is the Scuola Grande Di San Marco, which was once a school in the 13th century, but is now a hospital. The building’s appearance changed dramatically in the 16th century, giving it a detailed Renaissance style. Although dwarfed in size next to its neighbor, this school’s intricate design gives it means to stand out on its own. The white marble facade forms many arches: over doors, windows, and columns, as well as six along the roof. The next attraction in the Campo is the Equestrian Monument to Bartolomeo Colleoni, which stands high on its pedestal in the center of the square. Although it is not what attracts tourists to the area, it has some very interesting history. Bartolomeo Colleoni fought for the Venetians and Serenissima during the 15th century, where he led his troops to many victories throughout his time in command. After his death, he left most of his money to the patrimony of the republic under the condition that they will erect a statue of him in the Piazza San Marco. But due to a law against that, his statue was erected in the Campo  di San Giovanni e Paolo, in front of the Scuola Grande Di San Marco.


Isola di San Michele

Isola di San Michele is one of those places where tourists seldom wander, yet it sits right in front of them. It is an Island entirely made up of a cemetery and gardens, where locals outnumber tourists. Take the water bus towards Murano, but get off half way at the island curiously surrounded by a brick wall. Briefly walk through the buildings accompanying the Chiese San Michele, but then wander the long flowered walkways through the graves and tombs. And if you make it all the way to the end, there is a wonderful view of Venice through iron gates as a reward.
The Church of San Michele was built in 1469 by Mauro Codussi, and was the first Renaissance church in Venice. It wasn’t until the early 19th century that the island became a cemetery. During French occupation, the Venetians were told to haul their dead off of the main island for sanitary reasons.


Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari

Santa Maria dei Frari is a church similar in appearance to San Giovanni e Paolo in its gothic style and lofty mass. The facade in front rises straight to the sky, directed by two square columns that are topped by detailed white spires. This church also continues its size behind the facade, where the brick walls are home to decorations in the place of windows, and more pilasters. Although impressive on the outside, the beauty of Santa Maria dei Frari lies inside its brick wall.

Within the church, there are many smaller chapels, monuments, busts, and murals. The great hall, which is divided from the chapels and presbytery by a short wall, is filled with pieces of art, which each alone could be an attraction. Under the immensely high ceiling, murals such as The Martyrdom of St. Catherine and St. Jerome are surrounded by intricate borders and detailed stone pillar. There are monuments to the Doges and Gods that are not only enormous, but very detailed, such as the Monument to Giovanni Pesaro. It shows the Doge in his chair, high in the structure, surrounded by five figures representing religion, valor, the conquered, justice, and an angel of war. These figures sit on a platform that is carried by four powerful slaves, all with unique, painful expressions strewn across their detailed faces. Once you move past the great hall, though, you will be stunned again. After walking through a hand carved, beautiful set of wooden bleachers, there is the presbytery which is flanked by six small chapels, all of which are dedicated to different important people and regions.

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