Venice Views

Day three (Wednesday ) in Venice was a frustrating one. I spent a fair part of my day trying to organise the Italy to Croatia leg of my journey. I managed to get a ticket on a train to Ancona, the port that services Split in Croatia but had a frustrating time trying to book a berth on the ferry.

I have been busy with sms messages and emails between here and Australia as my mate Bob Vere has been acting as my travel agent for this part of the trip (and was most helpful during the Spanish leg as well). In the end I was unable to get a cabin on the ferry to Split however I will be able to travel cattle class for the 9 hour overnight journey.

Unfortunately I wasted a lot of mental energy worrying about getting to Split but eventually convinced myself that I would use that energy to walk around Venice and I did a lot of that of it!

I got lost several times but really it didn't bother me as I had no need to get anywhere in particular. I really do enjoy the experience and challenges of this city of over 180 islands. (Yesterday’s guide said there was that many and I'm not going to doubt her).

I found my way to a beautiful church and square in the San Marco district - the square and church of Santo Stefano. The artwork inside this church was exquisite and the volunteers were happy to let tourists walk around and take photographs, unlike inside the Church of San Marco where photographs are not allowed.

I continued on my journey west until I arrived at the Accademia, a one stop shop of Venetian painting. The gallery is inside three old religious buildings, one a school, one a church and one a former monastery. It’s well worth a visit.

I then switched around and went east again, frequently hitting aquatic dead ends until I eventually found what I was looking for - a restaurant well known for taking care of locals and those tourists keen to seek out the place. It’s called Al Bacareto and they do both local cuisine and some all-Italian standards.

There is a fair price difference between table service and eating at the bar but if you time things well (arriving at about 1pm ) they usually have risotto on offer to those standing and the waiter may even come around to your table (like he did today) to let you know its ready to be served. I chose not to have the risotto and enjoyed Venetian style liver instead and as you say in Italian "...era squisito! "

In the afternoon I took the vaporetto to Murano, once a world centre for glass production but now a haven for glass tourism. The vaporetto ride was about 25 minutes long and again, without trying too hard, it was possible to imagine being back in Sydney and heading to Manly. The Canale di San Marco bears a striking resemblance to Sydney Harbour and looking out towards Lido was like peering out towards Watson’s Bay.

Anyway after my excursion to Murano (where I didn't buy any glass ashtrays, plates or key rings) it was back to a packed San Marco. It was my first visit to the Square today and the pigeons and tourists were still there though many were heading back to their hotels as it was getting dark.

Dinner was at a local eatery and it looked rather much like a typical tourist trap, with the smooth waiter promising fantastic things inside!

I ordered one of my favourite pasta dishes and one that i regularly cook at home - spaghetti with garlic, chilli and olive oil. It arrived minus the chilli so, as I have been known to do in the past (just ask my family!) I sent it back demanding it include chilli. The waiter was taken aback (to understate his reaction).

He tried to tell me that it included chilli however I was determined to get what I ordered. I get the impression that the waiter felt that the tourist (me) had no idea what I was talking about and after much discussion between him and the lady behind the counter it was sent back.

They say sending food back can be a mistake in restaurants as the chef is likely to either:
a) spit in your food
b) chuck it on the floor
or
c) come out to the table and throw the rejected food in your face

I was not concerned! I ordered garlic, olive oil and chilli and I wasn't leaving without getting what I requested!

Eventually a new plate with new food, including the chilli, arrived at my table. The waiter apologised and I enjoyed my meal!

It’s my last night in Venice (this week) - tomorrow I take the train to Ancona and that ferry ride I just told you about above. I have Friday, Saturday and Sunday in Croatia and in particular Korcula and one of the islands nearby and then back on the Ferry returning to Venice next Monday for the flight out on Tuesday to London

Day Four (Thursday)

I set out early on a damp Venetian morning determined to see some parts of Venice well away from the tourist areas near Piazza San Marco and the Rialto Bridge.

I went north over the Rialto bridge towards the first church of Venice, the San Giacomo di Rialto (or San Giacometto), its foundation stone shares the same date as the city itself.

Onwards through the markets and away from the Rialto I then arrived at the beautiful I Frari, which is generally regarded as containing some of the greatest works of art in Venice, including the only piece by Donatello in the whole of the city.

The inside of this church is truly incredible and its a place not to be missed when in Venice.

I then wandered around the Sant Marta quarter, through markets, laneways and little restaurants. I managed to get lost again and again but eventually found my way back to the Rialto bridge and its crowd of tourists. I'm surprised this bridge is still standing considering the numbers on it at one time!

That's all for now from Venice its now the train to Ancona and Croatia

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