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Europe » Italy » Sicily » Mount Etna March 26th 2018

Monday March 26, 2018 - The view of Mt. Etna from my balcony this morning was beautiful, a snow capped volcano with steam plume set against a blue sky. I had a nice breakfast in the B&B, made of course by my Sicilian grandmother, who I feel obligated to mention is not old enough to be my mother, but still… Go-Etna picked me up around 9:30 and then we drove to the place where all the groups came together to sort out who would good with which guide based on language. I ended up in a truck with a traveling retired Australian couple and a young German couple. It was a nice group. We spent the day driving up Etna, walking around, putting on helmets and flashlights for the lava cave portion and then hiking for ... read more
Tour guide Francesco
1979 lava fields
Much newer lava

Europe » Italy » Sicily » Taormina March 25th 2018

Sunday March 25, 2018 - Of course it’s hard to go to sleep early on a Saturday night, even when you’re just home preparing for your trip. And of course you haven’t finished preparing for your trip because somehow you never learn. So you find yourself still awake at 11pm, knowing you have to get up at 4am AND daylight savings time starts that night, taking away yet another precious hour. So of course you wake up at 3:30 and can’t go back to sleep. I was on the tram by 5:14, waited 15 minutes for the bus to the airport and hungrily devoured all of the “driving in Sicily” materials I could get my hands on before I left. I was moderately terrified of driving abroad, and here I was starting in Sicily. Crazypants. I ... read more
Sicilian grandma snack
A wee bit of the view of the road I traveled
Entrance to old otwn

Europe » Italy » Sicily » Taormina February 28th 2018

As we conclude our 2-week stay in Taormina, Sicily, we might be inclined to lament the cool, rainy weather we experienced. Then we became aware of the snow and frigid temperatures covering most of Europe the past few days, and suddenly our predicament didn't seem so bad. Snow events in places like London, Paris, Rome, and especially Naples, are relatively rare. Hopefully we won't need snowshoes in Vienna in a couple weeks! We decided yesterday to make a major, last-minute change in our itinerary - we'll now be staying in Sorrento instead of Ravello. Why the change? Well, the short answer is: 90 steps. For months we've been in contact with the pleasant young lady who manages the apartment in Ravello for her mother. She and Dee have been exchanging messages, and we were looking forward ... read more
Naples (Uh-oh, we fly there tomorrow)
Paris
London

Europe » Italy » Sicily » Giardini Naxos February 26th 2018

We spent the past weekend homebound, as on Saturday we were recovering from our all-day outing to Agrigento the day before; and on Sunday the weather was positively wretched, with rain showers, wind and chilly temperatures throughout the day. So when we awoke to clear skies this morning, we were anxious to relieve our “cabin fever”. Our goal was to walk a section of Taormina we’d not yet explored, and then to stop by the tour agency office to see if it might be possible to arrange for a last-minute excursion to Mt. Etna before we leave. Unfortunately, the agency has not received enough reservations to satisfy its minimum requirements to conduct the tour. Just below the Corso Umberto stands the 14th century Palazzo Duchi di Santo Stefano, a masterpiece of Sicilian gothic architecture, with characteristic ... read more
Palazzo Duchi di Santo Stefano, Taormina
With owner, Franco Wine Bar
Port of Naxos

Europe » Italy » Sicily » Agrigento February 23rd 2018

A storm system moved into Sicily yesterday, bringing with it rain, chilly winds and generally miserable conditions. The visibility is so poor that the snow-capped peak of Mt. Etna, which is very prominent from our terrace, has been completely obscured from view. So the conditions for the tour we had scheduled for today--a visit of the Greek and Roman architectural treasures in and near the town of Agrigento--did not look at all promising. Most of the day's activities would necessarily take place outdoors, and it was raining cats and dogs when we embarked upon the 3-hour bus ride from Taormina at 7:00 this morning. Our tour group size today was slightly larger (14) than the Palermo trip we had made earlier in the week, so the tour operator decided to use a full-size bus, which provided ... read more
Near the Temple Concordia
Temple of Concordia
Floor mosaic, Villa Romana

Europe » Italy » Sicily » Palermo February 21st 2018

Today we had arranged for guided tours of Palermo and Cefalù, cities that are the repositories of many Sicilian architectural and artistic treasures, including several of the most celebrated examples of Byzantine and Arab mosaics scattered throughout the island of Sicily. Both of these cities lie on the western side of the island, so the distances to be traveled from our base in Taormina required more than 6 hours in a tour bus; and a long, 13-hour-day from start to finish. We made it to the pick-up point at the Taormina bus terminal by 7 AM, where our 12-seat-capacity tour bus, driver and guide met us in short order. After a couple of stops on the way out of town to pick-up a few more passengers, we drove south toward Catania via Sicily’s superhighway system, where ... read more
On the way to Palermo
Palermo Opera
Quattro Canti facade

Europe » Italy » Sicily » Castelmola February 19th 2018

Yesterday we decided to take a break, staying home to catch-up on housekeeping chores, laundry, etc., and to give our aching legs a break. Dee performed her usual magic by preparing a light lunch of pizza and salad, and later prepared chicken coquettes with risotto and salad for dinner. We tried to hit the sack earlier than usual, but both of us were wide awake by 3 AM, struggling mightily to stay in bed for a couple more hours of sleep. Our plan for today was to visit Castelmola, the medieval town near Taormina that sits atop a craggy hill, 1,736 feet above sea level. We left the apartment shortly before 10 AM, under partly cloudy skies; rain was in the forecast, but it did not materialize. After descending our "65-stairsteps-from-hell", we waited at the nearby ... read more
View from main square in Castelmola
Massive weaponry at Bar Turrisi
Rugged terrain below Castelmola

Europe » Italy » Sicily » Taormina February 17th 2018

After a late-morning start, our first order of business today was to walk from our apartment to the public bus terminal on the other side of town, where we'll be taking several excursions next week. The tours depart at 7 AM, and our concern is whether we can manage to reach the station, which is about a mile away, in time to catch the bus. In fact, it turned out to be a longer and slower "slog" than anticipated, with several stretches of roadway without sidewalks, and it took us more than 30 minutes to reach the station. So we'll probably need to arrange for taxis on those days. From the bus station we continued walking to reach the Villa Comunale (Parco Duca di Cesarò), a beautiful public garden created by Lady Florence Trevelyan in the ... read more
A new angel gets her wings?
Teatro Greco
 Villa Comunale

Europe » Italy » Sicily » Taormina February 16th 2018

Despite being awake for 24-hours-plus, sleep did not come as easily as we expected last night, so neither of us got more than five or six hours of shuteye. No doubt it will take a few days for our systems to adapt to the time change, but otherwise we awoke in good spirits without much of a travel "hangover". After one of Dee's delicious bacon and egg breakfasts, we were eager to do some exploring. It was a chilly 45 degrees at sunrise, but temperatures reached the upper 50s under clear, blue skies as the day wore on; ideal walking weather! We were out the door by 10 AM, walked through a small park that abuts our residence, and then located the series of sixty or so stairs descending to reach the main drag of Taormina, ... read more
Statue of Padre Pio
Castello Saraceno
Castelmola

Europe » Italy » Sicily » Taormina February 15th 2018

Our 78-day journey began shortly before noon yesterday, as we flew from Daytona Beach (via Atlanta) to JFK in New York, where we boarded an overnight flight to Rome. The final flight from Rome to Catania, Sicily, touched down around 2:00 PM local time today, with a pre-arranged taxi service driving us the last 40 miles or so to our final destination in Taormina. With four separate legs to begin this odyssey, the connections in JFK and Rome were a little tricky, but all went well---even my lovely companion, aka "Airport Anxiety Annie" (see Dee's comments below), managed to stay on an even keel throughout the airport ordeals. Security screening was a breeze in Daytona, thanks to TSA Pre Check, and in Rome we were able to take advantage of a fast-track security check through Alitalia ... read more
Valentine's Day at Daytona Beach airport
Sicily and southern Italy
Residence Schuler




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