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Meet me by the rubbish bins, said Carmelina. We were off to recee a walk in the Nebrodi National Park in the Province of Messina. Carmelina is my walking companion, or rather I am
her walking companion as she runs an eco-sustainable tourism company from the village of Sant'Ambrogio near Cefalù
www.sicilianexperience.com and also leads walking holidays. We recee new walks all over Sicily together. Generally, we are regarded as two weird english-speaking ladies who obviously have nothing better to do than walk along overgrown tracks looking for that turn-off which has invariably disappeared over time. Nothing like Ordinance Survey maps exist here. Just totally incomprehensible military maps which we are convinced the military has never actually used, otherwise we would surely have come across some crazed wandering soldiers trying to find their way home.
Caronia is a small village in the mountains along the road to our trailhead. Up until a couple of years ago, very few people had ever heard of until it became national news on tv.
Strange and unexplainable phenomena were happening here. In many households electrical appliances were catching fire or blowing up. They called out the electricity company, all the technicians
from the town hall and other experts who were all unable to explain it. In the end they got so desperate they called out a famous exorcist priest who came and did whatever it is that exorcist priests do to get rid of an evil presence. After that we heard no more........so.........mmmmm..!?
We decided to drive through the village but when we came out the other side the road was closed. It had just fallen away down the mountainside but nobody thought it necessary to put any warning road signs up. Going back proved exciting as it was mostly one way narrow streets and at a certain point we just drove down a road the wrong way. Somewhat bemused expressions from the old guys with the flat caps but it was ok as the cars coming up towards us even pulled over to let us through as I think they thought it was worth having a good look at the obviously 'foreign' ladies waving to them as they went by.
Back to the ring road we continued on and up through the Nebrodi beech forests until we arrived at the trailhead of Sorgente Nocita at 1,429mts. from where
we started our walk. There was still some snow around and the sound of the rushing water in the streams and torrents accompanied us the whole way. Shortly we started our climb, through the woods, up to Monte Pelato, 1,567mts, which would be our highest point for the day.
The best time to walk in Sicily is during the Spring and Autumn but if you don't mind the heat in summer and the snow in winter, you can walk all year round here. Spring is glorious and on this particular hike we were walking through carpets of yellow primroses, white and blue anemones, violet crocus and snowdrops.
The last part of the walk up was some easy clambering over rocks and then we were finally out on top of Monte Pelato.
Now, the thing that takes your breath away is not so much the climb up as the incredible view when you get to the top and this was certainly on that 'to die for' list. It is uninterrupted for 360°. To the north were the Aeolian Islands - at least 5 of them visible - lying in that calm, turquoise sea. To the south and west
we could see to the centre of the island where the town of Enna is on top of its own mountain. But best of all, to the east, was the majestic volcano of Mt. Etna, heavily snowcapped, puffing away madly and rising up into the sky in all its glory at its present height of 3,329mts, but that does change if there is a summit eruption.
Now where else in the world can you sit on the beach and sunbathe in the morning and then go skiing on the mountain slopes in the afternoon, all in the same day? Perhaps
someone can tell us as we don't know anywhere else?!
Along the trail back down we met a group of ramblers with the Italian Alpine Club who looked as though they were lost but they were actually orienteering, but, apart from them, we had the forest to ourselves all day.
So this was just another of the lovely walks we regularly check out. By far the best way to see this island is on foot and whether you are an independent walker or enjoy walking with a group, there are endless opportunities to create your own personalised itineraries.For more information on walking in the Nebrodi check out
http://www.parks.it/parco.nebrodi/Eiti.php or consult the Rother Walking Guide for Sicily or Sunflower Sicily.
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