ROMAGetting scrappier
The scenery between Zurich and Italy is breathtaking, literally. The train passes through small and medium sized towns and villages DWARFED by mountains that can’t be scaled and whose peaks can’t be seen by the naked eye. We’d passed Lugano, Milano, Bologna and Florence before arriving in Roma.
The second third of my Euro Trip was of a different breed. Jim came to Italy equipped with Italian telephone numbers and names of distant relatives, whom we’d seek out in Rome and Milan. It was great to reunite with another familiar FACE. Jim and I met up without even having to search. We picked up right where we left off when we last joined forces in DC several months ago with MIA former friend Bobby Jenkins (if anyone has info on this missing person, please come forward).
After dropping our bags in a mediocre, yet highly recommended hostel near the train station we wasted no time meeting random characters. The first of which were our forlorn roommates. The room was for four and Canadian and German males occupied the other two beds. We both curiously debated the lives of these random STRANGERS without actually investigating their origins or motive much
to maintain mystique.
Next we went out to explore as the evening set in and we decided to start our journey properly with a three course “Italian” meal. I had the veal and Jim the cannelloni. We should’ve known, being so close to the train station that the AUTHENTICITY of our first dining experience would be less than what we’d hoped for. The meal resembled our hostel and we eagerly awaited the next day when we would meet Jim’s grandmother’s brother’s nephew, Vincenzo, a middle-aged guy who’d been to the US once and would help us get our feet wet in Roma.
Day #1 in Rome- There’s no need for a map in this city (although I never let mine leave my side). Every street corner is a piece of history, most shop windows hold something worth a glance and entertaining faces and facades will guide your vision from one golden age to the next. From dusty ancient civilizations to trendy tiendas, classy dames to men dressed as Julius Caesar begging to take photos with you for a buck, Rome is exactly what it claims, “THE ETERNAL CITY”.
The COLISEUM, ROMAN FORUM, CIRCUS MAXIMUS and several prominent piazzas convene in the touristic heart of Rome. After being mesmerized by the most recognizable and unavoidable sites, a walk along the river and a day full of jaw dropping sightseeing fueled by the free breakfast buffet, Jim and I met with our first “LaMascra” family member, Vincenzo.
Vincenzo picked us up in his smooth ride and after thorough introductions, ensuring that we weren’t imposters just looking for a free ride to the beach, we began to cruise through the city towards his loft near the Mediterranean coast in Ostia (which in Spanish translates to “the SHIT” or “the bomb”, the good way).
The first striking observation about Vincenzo was his taste in music. V’s about 10 years older than us, but rocks out just the same to diverse lesser known American exports such as PHISH, Sublime and RAGE AGAINST THE MACHINE and many more; a stark contrast to other Italians we met who won’t touch anything that isn’t “MADE IN ITALIA” (not because they’re not open-minded, just because they’re so sure that the Italians do it best).
Jim’s “cousin Vinnie” took us out for our first meal to the medieval part of town, “Trastevere”, where we realized that we’d been reading Italian menus almost all our lives. Vinnie suggested BUCATINI, a thin tube-like noodle thinner than a ziti but thicker than a spaghetti, with marinara and Parmesan. He was right on. Delicious. As were the protection mushrooms, house red and tiramisu. [In retrospect, I don’t remember seeing a single Caesar salad offered anywhere, curious].
Vin gave us a grand tour by foot, through winding Dark Age passages and over ancient Roman bridges; pointing out a route the pope once took from Vatican City to an emergency bunker to avoid attack centuries ago. Finally we stopped in the piazza in front of the Pope’s home above St. Peter’s Cathedral and actually saw his top floor corner room illuminated, a symbol to the world that The Big Man upstairs never sleeps.
Day #2
After power-packed cappuccino and pastries we took a detour to the Ostia coastline before heading into the city. The beaches were absolutely barren, but Vincenzo and his girlfriend Adelaida assured us that during the summer they were bustling. The forested area surrounding the beach was protected by conservationists and daytime prostitutes scattered throughout the jungle-like environment.
Vinnie and Ada led us on an all-day tourfest and didn’t miss a beat. The Pantheon, Spanish Steps, Fountain of Trevoli, fashion boulevard, St. Bartolome Castle, gardens, arcs of triumph and works by all three ninja turtles earned us a hearty meal. After eating, Jim and I sat on the terrace/roof terrace and listened to the Ekoostik Hookah version of the Bob Dylan classic “When I Paint My Masterpiece” which chronicles a walk through Rome while catching up on old times and new.
Next stop- MILAN: Home of Dolce & Gabbana and MIMI