Herculaneum. Who knew?

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Sorry to inundate you with blogs but I'm not sure what my next B&B will have in the way of wi-fi or free internet so I am taking advantage of the lovely facilities of Hotel Santa Caterina while I can as I am off to Sorrento tomorrow mornng.

Pompei gets all the attention but I personally liked Herculaneum much better. First, it is much smaller. I'm sure I'm not the only person who has been ruined by ruins. I am so sorry I just couldn't help that one. But, truthfully, after about twenty minutes they all pretty much begin to look the same.

Pompei was a working town of about 20,000 when it was hit while Herculaneum had only about 5,000. It was a resort town for rich and famous Romans. The homes that have been uncovered, largely intact, are much more elaborate, well decorated, and extensive than those in Pompei. Floor mosaic, wall frescoes, ceiling stuccoes, and even wooden furniture have all been preserved.

Apparently, there was an earthquake in the area in 64 B.C. and Herculaneum was still repairing damage from that when Vesuvius erupted. But unlike Pompei, which got hit with the pyroclastic ash, Herculaneum was buried under about 80 feet of burning mud, sand, and rocks which basically acted as a preservative. For a long time it was believed that the town had been closed up after the summer season because only 6 bodies were found (as compared to 2,000 in Pompei). Then in 1982, while excavating around the docks that was the shoreline in ancient times, a worker discovered hundreds upon hundreds of bodies. They were scorched by volcanic gases right down to the bone, huddled in the dock houses under 60 feet of hardened volcanic mud. One theory was that they were waitng for boats to carry them to safety, the truth is that they perished from the sudden, blazing heat that preceded the mudslide.

Herculaneum was laid out as a typical Roman town with shops, baths, a Palestra or sports arena, several bakeries, several 'fast food' places, a few apartment houses, and many, many grand mansions. My two favorites were: the House of Neptune and Amphitrite* and the Hall of the Augustals*. The first is covered with rich vibrantly colored glass paste mosaics in deep reds and hues of blue depicting Neptune and Amphitrite. On the opposite wall was another mosaic of nymphs amidst shells and lava foam topped with marbled theatrical masks. Above a niche area is the tank that fed the fountain. And in the atrium two shattered marble slabs painted with red lines were found. One bears the artist's signature in Greek: "Alexander of Athens painted".

The hall of the Augustals: For the liberta (freed slaves), becoming Augustals meant entering into the dynamics of upward mobility. Their 'board' was dedicated to worshipping the emperor Augustus. They held their meetings in the area of the Forum, where all political, religious, and commerical life took place. The floors were brick in a herringbone pattern. Several frescoes could still be seen showing the entrance of Hercules into Olympus, accompanied by Jupiter. Another alludes to the battle between Hercules and the Etruscan god Acheloo. In the back was the caretaker's room, whose skeleton was found lying on his bed. An inscription on the wall showed the building being dedicated to Augustus and that it was bulit by two brothers A. Lucius Proculus and A. Lucius Iulianus, who offered a luncheon to the members of the municipal senate and the Augustals on its inauguration day.

My experience there was richer because of all the effort it took to get me there. I may be traveling on my own but I have been helped by many. Yesterday just getting to Herculaneum was a perfect example where one lady had me follow her to where the correct track was to get the train (and then went back down the 3 flights of stairs to show me where to get the damn ticket validated. Arrrggghhh!). Once I got to the town there were no signs or indication where the ruins were. I just started walking figuring I'd find a cab. And just like that one appeared. It was a collectivo taxi. These stop when someone waves for them and generally go anywhere in a town the rider asks for a set fee. It took me directly to the ruins. When I left he ruins I knew to look for these white vans. Several were waiting in front of what looked likea municipal building.The driver tried to rip me off by charging me 3 times the going rate. The ladies I was sitting next to showed me the proper amount. As I was leaving the van the driver tried to hit me up for more. The ladies yelled at him. I don't know what they said but he backed off.

Lessons learned:

1. Many years ago, on my first visit alone to NYC, I was a nervous about going out exploring on my own. My daughter, who was going to grad school there, told me to "hold my head up high and act like you know what you are doing". I use that bit of advice now everywhere I go.

2. Ladies will always help another woman. When alone sit next to them in the train stations or on the train or bus. People really do want to help you.

3. Don't for one second believe that everyone speaks English. It just isn't true when you are off the well worn tourist track. It helps to have a simple 'Travel dictionary' to refer to in a pinch. I have the Rick Steve's Italian for Travel with me now. I have used it repeatedly.

*Description of houses taken from the Guide Book for Herculaneum.

Carolyn/Gunga

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Comments

[Martha McLaughlin]

Herculaneum
Your detailed descriptions remind me of being on a Sat. afternoon Rick Steve's TV travel tour. They're wonderful! I'm amazed at your stamina and quest to learn more about our world outside the cocoon of America. MMM

[Amy]

thnx
Hey there, thanks again for taking me with you on your adventure. As I sit here at home w. my hot peppermint tea for my sore throat, I am transported to the ruins with you. Ciao, Amy

[D MJ Binkley]

Ruined by ruins
You have a wicked sense of humor. Love it! Love all the blogs...please keep them coming. We want to know what you are up to. Progress and repair is slow in that part of the world. Love your lessoned learned.