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Published: January 26th 2013
In general, Americans are a kind and generous people. So it is always a conundrum as to what to do when confronted by beggars, usually young children. But here in Southern Italy, there seems to be a plethora of young (in their 20's) African immigrants, at busy intersections, holding small plastic cups. They don't say anything just shake the cup in your direction which seems to have become the universal symbol for asking for a donation.
It got me thinking about different trips I have taken and my experiences with beggars and the reactions of some of the my hosts to said beggars. While I can't remember each incident these are the ones that stand out. I'm sure many of you have had your own experiences and struggled with what to do. In many instances I was guided by my native host or a guide. I keep their counsel with me each time I am confronted by a beggar.
1986- outside the train station, Hamburg, Germany. Young Turkish women held seemingly comatose babies and/ or children in their arms. My first impulse was to drop coins into their hands. My German host stopped me. "They drug the babies", she said. "Watch when we return. A different woman will be here with the same ' sleeping' baby." And, sure enough it was true.
1986- Segovia, Spain. Against my daughter's request, I asked a gypsy woman the price of a lace tablecloth. The price was ridiculously high and I said "No." The woman lowered the price a bit but it was still higher than I wanted to pay. We entered the castle for a tour. While on the 3rd. floor we looked down and the gyspy woman was still standing at the gate. "You asked for it, Mom", my daughter said. As we exited the gypsy followed us down the street yelling louder and louder - things my daughter refused to translate. Suffice it to say:lesson learned.
1989- Salta, Argentina. having a cold drink in the Plaza Mayor with our hostess, Maria Cadena. Little children, whose huge brown eyes barely came up to the table top, would stand there wordlessly begging for money. When I started to give them some, Maria stopped me. "Look, across the street is their 'pimp'. The children do not get to keep the money. They must give it to him." She then steathily slid her plate of food to the children so they could eat something without being seen.
A few days later we took a bus trip to Cafyate. A woman got on holding huge bags of rolls and bread. I asked what it was for and she said " You'll see." At every stop children came running to the bus begging. She gave each a roll which they happily accepted and devoured immediately. What a great idea!
1990- Carribbean Islands- every stop our cruise ship made. Hoards of children wait and follow the tourists with outstretched hands. They are like Pavlovian dogs- once people started giving them money years ago they have learned to be beggars. Refuse to give. Carry some markers, pens, or other trinkets if you must give.
1995 - Warsaw, Poland, outside my son's apartment. Every day a little Romanian girl, about 5 or 6 years old, stood with a paper cup from the nearby McDonald's. My son referred to her as the building's beggar. "We take care of her. People feed her all day long and around 5 pm they start pouring coins into her cup." Apparently, one day they had witnessed her being beaten by her mother when she didn't have enough coins in her cup. Collectively, they determined that that would not happen again.
2001 - Thailand, Mountain tribes. Trained by tourists. don't give. Buy their crafts instead.
2001 - Cusco, Peru. Our guide Washington, pleaded with our group NOT to take pictures of children and their llama dressed in traditional garb. "They are supposed to be in school. Their parent's are using them like slaves." He also told us that the government gives food to poor people at the school provided their children attend.
Later, on that same trip in Puno, Peru going to the floating islands of Uros, the guide begged us NOT to give the children candy. "They love it and many tourists give it to them thinking it is a good thing. But is is bad because we have no dentists and they get used to the taste and want more." We asked what we could give them instead. She said, "Pencils, pens, markers. crayons, anything for school." So there you have it.
Well, you get the drift. Not every country I've been to has beggars. I don't recall any in Northern, Italy when I was here in 2004. i can't recall even seeing any in Rome a few days ago. But as soon as I got to Naples, especially at the major tourist attractions, there were many.
They are all over Pompei by the churches and the ruins - mostly gypsies. On the train yesterday from Pompei to Herculeum, there must have been 15 - this at 10 A.M. At every stop, Mamas sent the kids up and down the aisle to beg. One played an accordion and made her little child dance - this is horrible to say but it reminded me of the old "hurdy- gurdy" man who had his little moneky dressed in a cute outfit and begging while he played. I shudder just thinking of it.
While waitng for my train back to Pompei I was surrounded by 3 "Roma" girls ( as they referred to themselves). They asked me if I spoke Roma, Italian, or English. That was the only English they knew but it was enough for them to determine I was a tourist. They kept trying to finger my map to find out where I was going and what stop I was getting off at. I moved fast when the train came and got a single seat so they couldn't crowd next to me. I could hear their loud, husky voices the entire trip (they were behind me). They got off at the stop that connected with the other Pompei train stop- where they had told me to get off. That station had long tunnels to go throuhg to exit it. I stayed on the train, even though it meant I had over a mile to walk back to me hotel.
There was no way I would ever take out my wallet in front of beggars or in any public place. Even if I did have some coins in my pockets to give, there is no way of knowing what really happens to the money. I object to the whole practice.
I'm sure many of you have been subjected to beggars. Feel free to write me your stories. It might warrant an entire chapter in the book people want me to write.
For people who don't travel much or for those who just can't say "no", some of these stories might put the practice into a different perspective. But please, don't ever let anyone see where, on your body or in a money belt, you keep your money.
Tomorrow I head for Sorrento. i'm hoping for a few sunny days there.
Carolyn/Gunga
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Susan Flaccus
non-member comment
The problem of beggars
I was horrified at your description of drugged babies. In Paris there is a big market in renting dogs to beggars, and they, too are drugged so they will sit quietly by their "Masters". Last year i saw two little dogs that stole my heart, so against everything rational, I went beck the next day and found the beggar and tried to purchase the dogs. It turned out that these dogs apparently did belong to him, because he told me that when he sleeps on the streets, he sleeps with the dogs on top of him, and they are his family. he would not, he declared, sell them for ten thousand euros. I'm not sure about his story because he asked if we were reporters, and surely didn't want the dogs photos taken. He was most gracious, however, and offered me a croissant that had been brought to him by a local restaurant, in a gesture that allowed him some dignity. I'll try and find him again this year, armed with dog treats and ear medicine.