Gorgeous Ireland!

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LANDED IN DUBLIN 13 OCT.
After a very small amount of sleep on the flight from Chicago, we picked up our rental car at 10AM. So, now Mike is driving on the left side of the road, shifting manual tranny with his right hand, and we need to get out of the city. Well, we did it and arrived in Kilkenny very early in the afternoon. Only once did we have to turn around. Stayed at Ashbrook House, a beautiful B&B about 6 miles out of town. Our hosts graciously allowed us to check in early. Took a little walk down the lane. Needed to do what we could to stay awake until dark. Had a fine steak dinner at Paddy's just down the road from the B&B, then heavenly sleep until 8 the next morning. Visited Kilkenny Castle & the Design Center across the street from it. Walked the streets and soaked in the charm of the city. Took the tour at Smithwick's Brewery and sampled their brews. YUM!

16 OCTOBER
Reluctantly we left and headed to Cork, via Rock of Cashel. Driving through the countryside we were on some of the narrowest roads we had experienced. But the sun was out and the views around every corner were lovely. Lots of history at Cashel. Didn't realize that so many of the sites here were in ruins. There isn't always complete information either about how some of the building were used, like the tower. Continued on toward Waterford. Had a tour of the facility, which is more like a specialty workshop. Factory has been closed but you can still see artisans at work, from glass-blowing to polishing the crystal. Also found out that Waterford isn't the only place in Ireland to create crystal.
Many of the towns have their own and also lots of wool. There are more sheep here than cows. I can understand that, as folks wear a LOT of sweaters. Plus there are a lot of textiles woven. Products are shipped all over the world.
Driving around you can see the sheep with paint on them. We asked someone and were told that this is the "branding" for sheep. They are painted with either pink, red or blue paint. Also, they may be painted behind the head or on the rump as to distinguish whose sheep belong to which farmer.

ON TO CORK
Directions to the Cork B&B were great, we just missed a turn and took a little longer to find it. Very charming building over 240 years old, with the cutest dog, Her Ladyship. Liam and his wife were great hosts. Took a drive out to Blarney and the castle. Kissed the stone, so now we both have the gift of gab! Did a little shopping at the woolen mills and had our purchases sent home. Spent a couple of hours at the Cork city Gaol (pronounced jail). Life was not easy in this place. It housed both male and female prisoners at the same time, and then mostly females. In the early 1900s, though, it was re-opened to hold prisoners of the revolution. You can even see some of their graffiti on some of the cell walls. On our way out of town we went to visit Fota Park and House, but the house was closed for the winter. Gardens are beautiful, but it was quite cold and windy, so we pressed on to Killarney.

The hedgerows that divide the fields all over the country are made from dry stacked stone and shrubs that have grown along these walls. The roads are bordered by more stone walls and tons of fuschia that can grow to almost 10 feet tall. It needs to be pruned every year. Even in mid to late October it is still blooming. The hydrangeas are still blooming, too. I was pleasantly surprised by how much is still blooming at this time of year. Many of the trees have lost their leaves, but there has been no frost.

18 OCTOBER -- KILLARNEY
Directions to the B&B were not the best, but Killarney is a small town and we found Dromhall Heights and checked in. Peggy, our hostess, greeted us with much warmth and plenty of advice about the area. The next day we drove out to Muckross Castle, which was fabulous. The family who hosted Queen Victoria ended up going broke spiffing up the place for her visit. It's located in Killarney National Park. They are commemorating Queen Victoria's visit 150 years ago. Park is stunning with beautiful views of the hills and the lakes around Killarney. Was too cold (40sF)& rainy to tour the gardens. The Heritage Farm was closed for the season, too. Killarney is a delightful little town, easy to walk around.
Next stop, Galway.

So much rain! We came to Ireland expecting rain and cooler weather, but the natives tell us that this is unusual. We are counting any day with either no rain or some sun as a bonus.

21 OCTOBER -- GALWAY
Out B&B was outside the city in a neighboring community called Salthill. Got a recommendation from our hosts Connie and Paddy, to have dinner at a local place -- Lohan's--great choice. First day in Galway poured rain, but we found a place to park and checked out the city museum. Admission was free, and they had 2 special exhibits. Artist Charles Lamb's impressions of the Connemarra Penninsula and a focus on children, their annual Baboro festival. Museum is near the Spanish Arch on the river's edge. Rain has stopped (for now!!!) Walked around the Latin area, and Eyre Square. Lots of restaurants, shops and a chance to watch people. Picked up dinner at Lohan's (seafood chowder----YUM!!!) and brought it back to the B&B. Was able to get to church Sunday AM, the took a drive the next day out to the Connemara Peninsula. Great views of the sea and beautiful little towns. Saw some of Ireland's famous peat bogs with bunches of peat piled up to dry (?). Normally takes a year of drying and turning before they can burn it, but I think this year's "crop" will take longer. Should have tried the Galway Bay oysters. Maybe later. Got out to Kylemore Abbey and saw the posh living that the nuns had during their stay at the castle-turned-abbey. In the bay on the way there we saw the mussel farms. Returned to Salthill, last time for dinner at Lohan's--feel like family.

24 OCTOBER -- DONEGAL

Sigh......more rain. Drove up the coast to the Cliffs of Moher. Quite impressive. Saw a man there playing guitar on the stairs going up to the cliffs. Told him he was very brave (especially in that weather) and left a few euros for him. Good display of the environment around the cliffs, and the views are something. We climbed up to where the tower is and took in the sight. Very windy and rainy, but still glad we saw them. Temps are around 8-11C. BRRRRR!!!

Arrived in Donegal and found the B&B with no trouble. Down a very small lane, but the place is way cool, looks like a castle. Views are of Donegal Bay, with some islands in our inlet of the bay. Never got to see the seals feeding, but there were plenty of birds. Shortly after we arrived the sun came out and I hurried downstairs to take some photos of the house and property. Lovely. Jackie was a fabulous hostess. Unfortunately, we never got to meet her husband. But she has a darling little boy, Harry, who is 17 months old and very busy. Went into Donegal that evening and had a yummy dinner at The Harbor Restaurant. Took the next day to drive out Slieve League, but it was a bust, as it was windy, rainy and the fog rolled in. These are the highest cliffs in Europe. We went, we saw, we hurried back to the car and spent a lovely afternoon for the drive, not including weather. Found Kilcar, where they sell Donegal wool, and managed to get some beautiful colors. Will have a grand time knitting over the next year. Had an early dinner and went to the Central Hotel, where they had a fantastic show of local folks playing typical Irish music, along with dancers who will be joining the Lord of The Dance tour group. Next day we spent walking about Donegal. The castle is closed Tuesday and Wednesday, so we missed it, but half is in ruins, so no big deal. Had a great couple of pints at The Reel Inn, then dinner at an Italian place next door. Returned to The Reel for some great traditional music.

27 OCTOBER -- DUBLIN
Well, here we are, back in Dublin. Found our B&B and learned that our hosts could not keep us, as they had sustained damage in the rains and flooding earlier in the week. But the neighboring B&B had space and we stayed there. John was a very warm and inviting host who gave us lots of advice on what to see and do. Took the city bus ride to get an overview of the city. Was able to see the Kilmainham Gaol, Jameson Distillery, Christ Church Cathedral, and Trinity College and the Book of Kells. This book was written by monks over 200 years between Iona and County Meath, and is an illustrated (VERY UNDERSTATED) version in Latin of the 4 gospels. Unbelievable!! They call it illuminiated, but you just have to go and see it. Our last night in Dublin we saw a play at the Peacock Theatre, "16 Possible Glimpses" which was written by Marina Carr about Anton Checkov. Very well done and a great ending to our stay in Dublin.

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Photos

P1000228
Going up to St. Canice's Church

Kilkenny Castle
Outside rear view

Wish granted?
Coming up the wishing steps in the gardens at Blarney Castle

Ladies'View
Killarney National Park

Dingle Peninnsula
This is what they call a 2 lane road in Ireland