Ireland Day 6: The Burren and Cliffs of Moher

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After spending a glorious night with the howling Atlantic outside and a glowing hearth of peat at our bedside, we awoke to radiant sunshine. Breakfast in the sunny veranda room facing the Atlantic was remarkably good. Laurie picked the fluffy pancakes with warm maple syrup and Axel experimented a bit with the smoked salmon and scrambled eggs. The salmon was mixed in after the eggs were scrambled to make for one heck of a flavorful combination.
The intent for today was to spend the day driving through The Burren and finish up with the Cliffs of Moher. The Burren is a large limestone plateau made up of bare rocky hills interspersed with lakes. It is the product of thousands of years of human habitation which removed the forests that once covered 99% of Ireland, thereby allowing soil erosion to occur and uncovering the rock underneath. In an ultimate twist of irony, the little remaining soil in the Burren is extremely fertile ground, with over 1000 plant species resident, including some alpine and Mediterranean types. We spent the majority of the day exploring the various ruined tower castles and abbeys in the region as well as admiring the stark beauty of the Burren itself. We even visited Ailweey cave which was discovered accidentally by a shepherd in 1940. It was formed over millions of years by an underground river and stretches for more than 1 km. Apparently, the Burren is a veritable honeycomb of cave networks, many filled with water and going for miles.
We finished our day driving the coast road where we were able to see the Aran Islands laying offshore, followed by the famed Cliffs of Moher. The Cliffs were definitely the highlight of the day. They are like giant black bulwarks shielding the rest of Ireland from the raging storms of the Atlantic. At 200 metres in height they dominate the surrounding landscape. Even the grazing lands behind them rise to meet them in a gradual slope. If you were not aware that the ocean was so close, you might think that the gently rising ground was yet another green Irish hill. But what a shock you would get when you reached the crest and beheld the vast expanse of ocean before you and the precipitous drop at your feet!! The strength of the wind cresting the tops of the cliffs fairly took our breath away. It is a spectacular and unforgettable sight to stand atop those massive cliffs. The rock of the cliffs is very dark, almost black, which gives them a forbidding appearance. Plus, when we visited, the weather was crummy with rain squals blowing in every 30 minutes or so, reducing visibility considerably and giving the cliffs a dark brooding character in the mist.
We returned home to a warm fire at Moy House, tired and hungry. We finished our day with an unforgettable tasting menu in the intimacy of the small dining room with just four tables set for dinner. Laurie especially appreciated the meal as the chef catered to her “special” needs as a vegetarian. She was gaga over the cauliflower and blue cheese soup and her vegetable fondant / polenta loaf main dish. Course after course we were continually impressed. Axel had to physically restrain Laurie from licking her plate at times. All told - the best meal yet.

Where we ate: Moy House

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Photos

Celtic cross marker
One of the countless monastic sites in Ireland.

Cliffs of Moher
The massive black cliffs before the storm.

120 meters down...
Cliffs of Moher

The Cliffs from O'Brien's tower.
The cliffs are considered one of the natural wonders of the world.

Warding off the chill and damp.
Our little peat fire in our bedroom.