Santorini to Crete: 2 Hours and 2 Extremes

Today is our last in Greece and the first slow day since my last entry. We got into Fira and checked into Santorini Camping with a very sweet Texan couple we met while waiting to disembark the ferry. We were pleased to discover that the shack we were expecting was actually a charming cabin, complete with our own private bath, safe, balcony, AC, and cable TV! All this for little more than we paid for the cardboard box on Mykonos. Greece is great.

We spent the evening wandering the hilly labyrinth of tourist shops and restaurants and caught some gorgeous night views of the cliffhanging city. Tourists abound yet the prices remain reasonable.

On Friday morning, after watered down cappuccinos, we set off for the 3 hour hike along the crag that meanders through boutique hotels and caldera-view restaurants before segueing into a steep, rock and red dirt trail that delivered us to Oia. Oia, famed for its blue domes, whitewashed buildings, and glorious sunsets, is a charming town that meets the expectations its postcards set. Blinded by the sun’s reflection off our white surroundings, we ducked onto an umbrella-shaded rooftop café for some num nums and cool Mythos beers.

After an extended lunch, we headed down the switchback stairs to the “beach”, a square patch of red dirt with a drop off point into the deep, clear water. From there you can swim about 30ft to a mini-island/rock, which you can climb to a sweet perch for cliff-jumping. I was all over that and nearly broke my toe by pencil diving the 15-20ft drop. Luckily it was just badly jammed, though I did get a bit of scare when I couldn’t bend my toes for the next 30 minutes…not to mention the throbbing that only a couple Advil and a nap could abate. A nice doze did the trick however, and we made our way back up the cliff to snag a sweet spot for the sunset finale. By 7:30, every seat and ledge that lined the Western tip was occupied with rows of tourists on time for the big show. It was a lovely sight, though I have to say I’ve seen better. An ideal way to end an ideal day.

Saturday we foolishly trudged down the donkey dung-lined stairs that descend from Fira’s cliffs to the Old Port, before vowing to take the hopefully less pungent cable car on our return to the top. At 11AM our sailboat (the only original that takes the excursions) departed for Nea Kameni Island, where the volcano that created the caldera of Santorini lives. Our highly competent and English proficient guide led us the steep 2KM under the scorching sun to the top. From there are awesome panoramic views of Santorini and the Caldera. I decided that Santorini, hands down, is my favorite of the Greek Islands we visited. As much as I’m loathe to say it, it being the tourist trap that it is.

From there we sailed to the neighboring island, where we jumped from the anchored boat and swam through 20m-deep water to the red-dirt bottomed hot springs. Warm springs is probably a more accurate description, though I can’t imagine anyone would complain, having walked just hiked 4KM in the stifling, shade-less heat.

The boat delivered us to the Old Port, promptly at 2:00, where we beelined it past the donkey trail to the cable car station before inhaling. After a quick lunch at the top, we checked out of the campsite and caught the bus down to the New Port for our 5:45 ferry to Iraklio, Crete.

Iraklio stands in stark contrast to the Cyclades, more closely resembling Athens than the other islands. From the port you’re met with the sight of unattractive urban sprawl and then a line of taxis that won’t take you the short distance to Rent Rooms Hellas. F them - we huffed it, luggage in tow, and earned the beers we had on its rooftop café/reception, that overlooks the trendy café-lined pedestrian walkway. Our room is clean, spacious, and adequate, with a sink and a balcony. After a night stroll through our neighborhood, popular among the young and trendy (and best looking thus far) locals, we settled into the dessert café below our hostel, where patrons sip “cold chocolate” out of tiki cups and snack on elaborate desserts and cookies served on tiered tea trays. The evening temp was just right for a curbside treat and people watching.

And here we are on Sunday, quiet for us and our relaxed itinerary, and quiet for Iraklion, where most of the shops are closed and the streets calm. We spent the morning wandering the nearby Minoan ruins of Knossos and after finding the Iraklion Archaeology Museum closed (or in the wrong place), we made our way back to the reliable rooftop café of Rent Rooms Hellas for our second time today, to spend a slow afternoon with a cool breeze and a view of the sea and its mountain-lined backdrop. I know I like long sentences.

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