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Published: October 31st 2010
I'm not going to write day-by-day as I usually do. I'll just write about each island I visited.
Some of my readers have messaged me to ask how life in Turkey is going. I'll write more about that later, but for now I'll just say that things are going fine, but slow, and I needed a few days away from the small town of Selcuk where I live. So, I decided to visit a few of the Dodecanese Islands. Right now it is considered low season, end of season, whatever you want to call it. I figured I shouldn't wait until November because there are even fewer ferries between islands in November than there are now, so on 19 October I caught a bus to Marmaris, Turkey where I would catch the ferry to Rhodos the next day. All I'm going to say about Marmaris is, "What an unbelievable disappointment!" It is nothing but British pubs, British restaurants, Turkish restaurants trying to appeal to Brits, and British people walking around showing off their sunburns and fat rolls. I can't imagine why anyone thinks this city is a proper representation of Turkey. I hated it and I only spent one night
Mountains Around Marmaris
Yes, it was rainy and cold and not nice, but it was actually very beautiful.there, where I saw spectacular wind and waves, but had horrible food and a crappy hotel room. I think it was a prostitute hotel...
Anyway, the next day the weather was bad, so the morning ferry was delayed until 5:00 PM. Two of Enis' customers, Bryan and Piper from Austin, TX, were also going to Rhodos, so we hung out at a restaurant and had some breakfast and then walked around a bit before going back to the ferry. The weather was okay so we left at 5:00 and arrived in Rhodos right after sunset. I hadn't booked a room, so I went to Hotel Anastasia with P&B. What a beautiful hotel in New Town! It is an Italian mansion built in the 1930's when Greece was occupied by Italy. The owner is a Greek man and his Italian wife. My room was beautiful and clean and bit and quiet and 35 euros a night. Breakfast is 4 euros more. A double is 50 euros a night. You can find this hotel as Lonely Planet's top pick, and there is a reason for that. I was going to try to find a cheaper place for my last two nights,
but didn't even bother because I liked this hotel so much and there weren't any that were much cheaper anyway.
We settled in and went for a walk to find a place to eat. Ended up at some big tourist place called Antiques, but the food and service were great. I needed a walk afterwards, and so did P&B so we went to Old Town and even though everything was closed, it was really interesting to walk around the deserted old city.
The next day we went to visit the small Acropolis (free, but worth seeing I thought) where Piper played her wooden flute in the small theatre. It sounded really good and she even attracted a small crowd. We walked down to the Old Town where we visited the Grandmaster's Palace (6 euros) and the Street of Knights (free). The Palace is worth a visit, but has been reconstructed to suit Mussolini who stayed there during the occupation. Not much is left of the original decor of the Palace, but you can get a general idea of what it was like. Afterwards we got a bite to eat at Medieval Cafe - crepes and gelato. Oh, how
we suffered. Most of the rest of the day was spent walking around the Old Town in the Jewish Quarter and just wandering around to see what we could see.
The next day I said goodbye to P&B since they were off to Santorini and they went to the town of Lindos for the morning. I went to the Archeological Museum (6 euros) and it is totally worth a visit. There is a beautiful statue of Aphrodite bathing and it is in perfect condition. It is called the Aphrodite of Rhodos and that alone makes the museum worth visiting. Afterwards, I headed to Lindos on the bus (4.60 euros one way). Saw P&B as they were leaving Lindos so we said goodbye one more time. Lindos is on the east coast of Rhodos and is a typical whitewashed Greek town. It has several shops, small pensions, and a couple of beaches. I enjoyed walking around and went to the Acropolis (6 euros) but the walk up there was the best part. It wasn't really worth the 6 euros, in my opinion, even though there is more to it than the one in Rhodes Town. Much of it is reconstructed
Leaving Marmaris
Marmaris was terrible, very British and touristy, but the surroundings are beautiful. I took this from the ferry when we were leaving. from new materials because the old stones are too eroded or just gone.
Came back from Lindos and had dinner around the corner from my hotel at Aspro Piato. Mousaka. It was so good, but so heavy! I walked for an hour before going back to my room, but that mousaka must have stayed with me for two more days.
I leave for Symi in the morning on the ferry (15 euros). Can't wait. I've seen a lot of pictures of this small island and read only good things.
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