Day 27-32: Wilkommen in Deutschland!

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May 26-31, 2010

Situated at the crossroads of Western and Central Europe, Germany exerts a significant influence not just on the continent but on the whole world as well. This is, after all, the nation that gave us Einstein, Luther, Bach, Marx and MP3. While a relative newcomer as a political entity, Germany is a veteran in a historical sense, being at the forefront of scientific and cultural advancements. Today, the country's an economic and technological powerhouse (Where else will you see modern Mercedes Benz models being used as taxis equipped with hi-tech GPS equipment?) inhabited by a people that takes recycling rather seriously.

Yet past the veneer of rigidity are classical sights (Castles! Lots of 'em!) and picturesque villages etched into lush forests that provide visitors to this splendid nation an aspect of Germany often neglected by outsiders. But perhaps the most surprising aspect we've learned of the oft-misunderstood country is the über-friendliness that disproves the image of stiff and warmongering Germans. A simple question regarding a dog's name quickly becomes a blithe conversation on long-haired Dachshunds and the breed's prowess in hunting, while a little misunderstanding on how to get around the country grows into an amusing game of charade with a tourism officer.

Wilkommen in Deutschland!

A rainy evening greets us in Frankfurt am Main after another almost day-long bus trip from Amsterdam. It's a dark and stormy night (oooh!) so we have to take a taxi to get to our hotel in Rodelheim, which is a few stations from the Hauptbahnhof and where we're basing ourselves for the next few days. It takes three taxis to get us to the place, a rather basic facility that nonetheless is a welcome respite from the grueling trip that has started to take a toll on our bodies.

The following day, after having fueled our bellies at a bratwurst stand, we return to the Hauptbahnhof to purchase round-trip train tickets for Heidelberg (Friday), Eisenach (Saturday), and Cologne (Sunday). The itinerary is forged after a lengthy debate amongst ourselves on where we will spend the next three days; Berlin and Munich are out of the question since they'e considerably far from Frankfurt -- a round-trip train ride for each city costs high and will eat much of our time.

Heidelberg. The famed unpredictability of German weather is at full display here, where the sun frustratingly plays hide-and-seek amongst the clouds, intermittently peeking in between bouts of rainshowers. Such climatic irresoluteness proves hard for us as we explore the Schloss Heidelberg and the Altstadt. The sheer beauty of the Old Town atop the famed castle nevertheless negates the hassle and the fear of developing castle fatigue, having just been to the Windsor Castle and the Chateau de Versailles in the past couple of days.

With not much time left before our train trip back to Frankfurt, we have to choose between the Philosopher's Walk or the University. The new set of rain clouds makes the decision easier: under the imposing yet comforting roofs of the university. Some of the group choose to go straight to the Neckar River, but others (I included) are led by a guide to the Hogwarts-ish old university hall and the museum downstairs before going to the spooky Studentenkarzer, where misbehaving students were once detained. We finally cap off our tour of the city with photo ops by the Neckar River under the bad weather (which improves a few minutes later, as usual).

The following day, another castle is on our itinerary: the Wartburg in Eisenach. Arriving at the humble city early in the morning, which is a Saturday, we witness a small parade punctuating a leisure walk at a narrow, cobbled street. Flower stalls line the plaza as locals perform various traditional German tunes.

We have our self-made breakfast at one of the benches near the square, then quickly imbibing on a bit of Protestant history at the Lutherhaus. We share the place with dozens of schoolchildren on a field trip. One pudgy boy, either mistaking all Asians are Japanese or because it was the only Asian word he knows, greets us, "Konnichiwa!"

"Ohayo gozaimasu!" I greet back.

We take in more history at the Bachhaus, once the home of the genius composer that has been turned into a remarkable museum. Again, some of the group choose not to go inside so they miss on this bit. Bubble chairs and iPods provide futuristic contrasts to the traditional architecture of the place. The tour around the museum is then capped with a 20-minute performance of the musical instruments found at the house.

A few hours past noon we settle ourselves for some lunch at an Asian restaurant near the plaza. Apparently almost everyone misses the rice. Potatoes and breads are nice, but Asians that we are, a meal ain't a meal without rice. It's a bit of a hassle ordering, as the waiting staff are either Thai or Vietnamese who barely speaks English. In a foreign land, the language barrier is all the more pronounced. Our meals are served after struggling to communicate with hand signs and a sprinkling of Vietnamese words.

An hour and a bus ride later, we are at the entrance of the Wartburg, an ancient fortress that has provided a refuge for Martin Luther from 1521 to 1522. But it's already past four in the afternoon and the last bus to the train station will leave by 5pm, so we don't have enough time to enter the castle itself. Instead we try to soak up the medieval atmosphere despite the crowds at the castle grounds (hard, I know) before we descend to the bus stop.

Rains start to pound a little harder the next day and the temperature drops further, which makes our excursion to Cologne slightly uncomfortable. We sought refuge in the iconic Kölner Dom for a few minutes and try to listen to the sermon (it's a Sunday) but we can't understand a word since it's in German. Sensing the need for modesty, we leave the church and rush to McDonald's -- the nearest place where we could stay while waiting for the rains to let up. We meet a Filipina expat with her two giggly daughters. The father's a German, the mom said. The girls don't speak Filipino but can understand a few words. I smile at them before they walk off to who knows where.

As the clouds finally begin to pave way for a bit of sunshine, we go to a nearby tourist information center and avail of a ticket for a train ride around the city. Inside the train, the stress of traveling overwhelming me, I inadvertently take a short nap, missing the train's audio commentary of the city. A few minutes later, just as when I am feeling slightly recharged, the rains start anew and we're forced to cut our tour short, having only visited the Lindt Chocolate Museum and a few unremarkable stores.

We return to Frankfurt that evening, arranged our clothes, played UNO, and watched a German-dubbed Spongebob episode as we prepared for the plane ride the next day to Prague. I checked online to see what weather awaits us in our next destination and find that it will be rainy.

I have no idea how bad it will be.

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Photos

Welcome to Germany!
Participants at a festival in Eisenach, Thuringia

Heidelberg
The Neckar River cuts through the Alstadt (Old Town), with the Jesuitenkirche dominating the view from the Heidelberg Castle

Altstadt, Heidelberg
A brief sunny moment greets pedestrians at the street to the university

Lutherhaus
Reputed to have housed Martin Luther when he was a lad, the Lutherhaus houses interactive displays on the life and a few works of the Reformation initiator.

Schloss Wartburg
In a country filled with mighty fortresses, the Wartburg stands as the sentimental favorite of Germans.

Kölner Dom
A priest lights up the candles in preparation for the mass in the Cologne Cathedral.