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Published: July 18th 2013
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I am not one to sterotype an entire people, but these Germans ... hold on a second ... that's not right ... I am going to start that sentence again...
If you will allow me to sterotype an entire people, these Germans are a very rule-abiding bunch. Seriously, you have never seen anything like it. Among the best examples is their obedience to cross walk signals. I was out for a walk early on Sunday morning and unsurprisingly, there was virtually no traffic. I arrived at a cross walk and the signal indicated "don't walk," but there is not a car in sight. So ... being an American, I proceeded into the cross walk and crossed the street without incident. My fellow pedestrians? They admonished me with their disapproving looks, and they continued to stand, waiting patiently for the "walk sign" to appear. I was astonished. I felt like yelling "People, the nearest moving vehicle is in Dresden, its time to consider looking both ways and crossing the street."
I am pretty sure the German version of this tale goes something like this ... "We were out for a lovely Sunday morning stroll and this impatient American charges right
into the street, against the light. Doesn't he realize how reckless that is? And why is he in such a hurry? He was clearly a tourist, on vacation, so where does he have to be that he can't wait a moment for the proper light?"
This rule-following also manifests itself in their pets. While on a bike tour (more on bikes later) myself and group of other Americans were commenting on how well behaved all the dogs were. My comment (with which there was general agreement) disciplined people = disciplined dogs.
Berliners are understandably prideful of their city, yet they seem concerned, dare I say preoccupied, by Berlin's position among other great European cities. I picked up on this when I noticed that Berliners don't "count" cities in the British Isles (and especially London) as part of Europe if it works against them, but those same cities are counted if it works for them. For example, a Berliner described the huge new central train station as the "biggest in Europe." When I off handedly mentioned that I had always heard that London Waterloo was the biggest, he responded that he meant continental Europe and thus London Waterloo did
not count. Another was telling me that after Paris, Berlin was the most visited city in Europe (which is true, if you don't count London). On the other hand one of our bike guides told us that Berlin has more parkland than any major city in Europe, including London. Its hilarious, and when you call them on it, they admit to doing it. Oh and for the record, any inferiority they feel is unwarranted, Berlin is a truly great city, regardless of the size of their train station.
Speaking of parkland, boy howdy is there a lot of it. Beautiful forested parks, with great walking trails and open green spaces, and in some instances, rubble enhanced hills.
Unfortunately, the Planet Hollywood in Berlin has closed, and I am saving my trip to hard Rock Cafe Berlin for another night, so I had dinner at a local German restaurant recommended by the hotel. I asked the waiter for a recommendation and ended up with a traditional meal of meat, potatoes and Kraut. You have never seen a larger serving of meat in your life. 2 large sausages, a slab of ham and an entire chicken breast. It was crazy,
but delicious. Bring a friend and share.
I am sure I am about to mess up the spelling of "Balzac," but its the thought that counts ... A big shout out to my friend Sue Sporek (f/k/a Sue Balzac). It turns our her people are giving Starbucks a run for their money in Germany, by serving excellent coffee and coffee-based beverages.
I would like to end on a serious note.
The German Holocaust Memorial is located near the Brandenburg Gate and consists of 2711 grey cubes (I am sorry my photos are not better, I took them at night). The cubes are uniform in length and width, but vary in height from about 2 feet tall to 16 feet tall. In effect, these cubes create a large maze about the size of a city block. There are a couple of things you notice right away. The first is that in a city where virtually every flat surface is "tagged"with graffiti (note to the Germans, you really should do something about the graffiti) there is none at the Memorial. The second thing you notice is how people use this memorial. People sit on the cubes and eat lunch,
young ninos chase each other and their parents in and around the cube maze, and the skateboarders? ... let's just say they have found skateboard nirvana (at this point we should note that Berliners will not cross the street against the light, but they will allow their youth to jump small, wheeled boards from one 16 foot high cube to another).
Anyway, when I first witnessed all the "activity," I wondered if disrespectful.
In the end I decided that it was not. I determined, for myself at least, that all this life, activity and dare I say laughter somehow honors those who died. I am interested in your thoughts. Let me know.
Finally, there are 2711 cubes. Does anyone know if 2711 has any particular meaning or significance? I just do not know.
More maƱana.
JJF
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Graham Fuguitt
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More on the Apartments in the background of your Holocaust memorial photo--
Guten Tag -- As you might recall our family returned from a two week trip to the continent (including the UK, alas) one month ago today. Fabulous trip enhanced by your pre-trip travel seminar with Mr. Finley. Thanks again. The middle leg of our trip was a 3 day stop in Berlin. During our 5 hour walking tour (!) we were informed that the court yard of the building (red tile roof) was the site of Hitler's bunker, which was a parking lot with a knarly grass patch in the middle. The building residents used the patch as a Dog toilet. How appropriate. Also the aprtments used to house the East German elite including Katarina Witt. Communinsm wasn't all bad.