Advertisement
Published: February 12th 2007
Edit Blog Post
Linderhof
Petite palace in the middle of nowhere The bus ride from Ettal to Linderhof is less than 20 minutes, if you get a direct bus, which I was fortunate to catch. Linderhof is not just the name of another one of King Ludwig's Palaces, but is also the name of the small community where the Palace is situated. As we roll past the snowcovered farms, I see deer tracks, scattered houses and bus shelters where the school children can try to get protection from the biting cold. The day is very sunny, but the wind is brisk and the air cold. I think this is the coldest day yet. Still not terribly uncomfortable, but I wouldn't want to be out in this for any extended period of time. We pass through the village of Zieglerhof, and I wonder if any of my German friend/cousin Friedhelm's family is from here (his last name is Ziegler). Not much here, several houses, a couple of local shops and a bakery (a staple business in every German community it seems), and a bus stop.
We arrive at the stop for Linderhof, and the bus driver informs me the ticket office is up the hill and around the bend - not by
Linderhof Garden and Gazebo
I couldn't get up to see any more detail due to the maintenance work going on...notice the maintenance truck in my picture. telling me this, because he evidently does not speak English, but by signaling with his hand. I find that Germans who do not speak English are still rather willing to try to communicate with you and try to be helpful, and generally always with a smile on their face. There is an inn of sorts at this stop, which reminds me of an Alpine ski resort hotel (duh - I'm in the Alps - mental head slap moment). I walk passed this, and begin my incline, go around the bend as the driver indicated, and sure enough, there is the ticket office. I purchase my ticket for $6,00, and the agent tells me the Palace is a 5 minute walk down the path to the right. I begin walking and I'm thinking "this is creepy". It's the middle of the day, and I hear absolutely nothing. There is a building ahead that is evidently some type of service lodge, a pond across the path from it where ducks are bathing (now I'm hearing sounds), and around one more turn - Linderhof Palace.
It is not huge, but very petite in size. After having seen Nymphemburg Palace in Munich, which
Linderhof Top of Front
The theme here other than Louis XVI on the inside, is Greek Mythology on the outside.... is immense, I expected this to be as grand. What it lacked in size, was made up in substance. The details in the sculpturework, and in the gardens surrounding the Palace more than made up for the lack of size. Now, it wasn't tiny - it appears to have 2 or 3 floors, and would dwarf our house in Florida. Behind the palace are arched trellises that in the summer must be wonderful to walk through. The trellises connect to gazebos, which I later learn were built for the King to listen to music under. There are scaffolds around the sides of the palace, and protective boxes over what must be sculptures in the gardens, no doubt to keep the snow and ice from damaging the pieces. Just beyond the palace is a small chapel, which I learn later actually was built by a farmer who had long ago had a farmhouse near the palace, but that had been torn down upon the building of Linderhof palace.
Across the front drive to the palace is a large pond with what must be a fountain - it too is covered for winter. And beyond that is a massive wall with
They almost look real
The detail in this sculpture work is captivating. This is one of the column headers that supports the portico over the front steps. steps on either side that leads to another garden. All of this is closed off due to the ice and snow, but as the previous tour departs the building, there is a couple ducking under the ropes to get a closer view of what lies beyond. OK, so maybe I'll break that rule also after my tour.
I learn that I am the only person in my tour, so I am able to be more conversational with him than if others were with us. This palace was built to immulate the Palace of Versailles in France, and is decorated in the memory of Louis XVI, who was King Ludwig I's godfather. A very large bronze statue of Louis XVI is in the vestibule of the palace. Over the top rococco, with enough gold leaf to cover the U. S. Capitol Dome and then some. Everywhere, in every room, heavy guilding adorns walls, ceilings, fixtures etc. The exception to this is the extensive use of Meissen Porcelain. Pieces so delicate and ornate, from candlesticks to in one room, a chandelier.
The music instrument in the Music Room, is a combination piano/pump organ, and is covered entirely in gold leaf.
Linderhof Columns and Portico
Here is a wider view of the columns supporting the portico Unfortunately, this palace too has camera restrictions, so my photos are limited to exterior shots. I also have a book on this palace - so hopefully, I can share personally with some of you the flambouyant detail within the walls of Linderhof. King Ludwig spent more time in this palace than any of the others after becoming King. What I learned here is that his bed was 9' long - he was 6'4", which was quite tall for a man during the mid 1800's. (OK, to me, this is tall now). There is only one room in the palace that was not decked out in gold - and it was decked out in silver, but just as heavily ornate as the other rooms. I also learned that the palace is 90% intact in both furnishings, artwork and structure of when it was occupied by the King. There was no damage during WWII, as this was not an area of interest to the allies....there were a few things pillaged as soldiers came through, but by that time, most all of the removable pieces had been moved into safekeeping
Ludwig had become so recluse. The floor under the dining table could
The Western Garden
This is my rebel shot - I ducked under the roping to get a little closer. At the top of the stairs is another huge garden. The Linden tree in this picture is over 300 years old. be lowered, so that his table could be set, dinner served and all dishes carried away without him having to encounter anyone. It was lowered to the floor below, set appropriately, then raised back for him to take his meals in solitude. Very, very strange man. The hall of mirrors was also facinating, and like in the Palace of Versailles, you could look in one mirror, and the image in the opposing mirror created the image of an endless hallway.
So, my tour being over in about 30 minutes, I venture over to the roped off area around the fountain, and try to get a closer view of the area. The sun is in the perfect spot to ruin I think every picture I try to take, but I did get one that is good enough to share.
I stroll back to the bus stop, stopping for a cup of hot coffee and a few souvenier purchases for my kids. The bus arrives in about 10 minutes, and off I go to Oberammergau.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.074s; Tpl: 0.011s; cc: 14; qc: 54; dbt: 0.0477s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.2mb