Day 16 - Bayeux

Day 16: Tuesday, July 7, 2009

SAINT MALO, FRANCE

Slept pretty well, but woke up a couple times. I think I first woke about 5 am, perhaps earlier. When I noticed the sun wasn't up yet, I went back to sleep. I think some part of my brain was trying to tell me something because I awoke again at 6 am and roughly every 15 minutes there after. Had I listened to my brain, I would have caught an earlier train.

I finally got up around 7:30 am. Showered, dressed, then spent some time trying to formulate a plan. I'd done just about everything I wanted in St. Malo last night, so I'd already made decision to move on and try to get to Bayeux before returning to Paris. Unfortunately, if I was serious about doing this, I would have had to catch an earlier train so as to catch the proper train in Rennes.

9:30 am - Checked out of hotel, got to train station to take the 9:50 am train to Rennes.


RENNES, FRANCE

A number of times along the way I've thought my suitcase will not complete the trip. I specifically purchased a new suitcase for this trip. I wanted something cheap that I could beat up, but also met flight carry-on requirements. So I found what I wanted at Walmart. Well, it appears my concerns were correct. The outter shell on one of the wheels has started to split. It still rolls, but I wonder how long it will be before the whole wheel gives out. I suspect it split early because I've been placing my backpack on top of the luggage while I roll along. Problem is, that adds a lot of extra weight to the suitcase. Guess I'd better start carrying my backpack.

This morning I determined I would go to Rennes, spend a little time there, then take the 1 pm train to Le Mons or Paris. However, this was all based on Rennes having some facility for storing luggage. Turns out they don't. There were no lockers. There was a sign "Retait Luggage" which I thought meant they could store luggage, but when I spoke to gentleman that worked the desk, he said they do not have any luggage storage facilities in the entire station. This goes against something I had read on the web. Without luggage storage, it's pretty pointless being in Rennes unless I plan to get a room.

I checked train schedules. There is an earlier train I could take. 12:05 pm to Le Mons. I have enough time to make reservation and get something to eat. Made reservation at ticket counter desk on second floor. The reservation was easy, but cost me 1.50 Euro (2.10 USD).

Once reservation was made, I had a little time to find something to eat or look around. Outside the North (Nord) side of the station, there really isn't much to see. I didn't want to wander too far because I didn't have much time and I was lugging luggage. There were some cafes and restaurants across road, so I checked them out. I purchased a 500ml bottle of Coke from a mini Market for 1.50 Euro (2.10 USD). Sounds like a lot for a Coke, but that's one of the better prices I've seen. Would have cost nearly twice that in the train station. On other side of street I saw sign "sandwiches". It was at Boolangerie De La Gare which sold bread, sandwiches, quiche, etc. I purchased a slice of Quiche Saumon Pareau (quiche with Samon and ???; Cost 2.40 Euro; 3.36 USD). The woman behind the counter warmed it up. I sat on a bench next to the fountain in front of the train station. At the other end of the bench were kids making out. The quiche was very good. Of course, now I'll have salmon breath for the remainder of the afternoon.

Went back in station to watch schedule board. There were two large posters hanging from rafters for the latest Quinton Terrintino movie "Inglorious Bastards". Everywhere I go, it's either posters for that movie or the new Johnny Depp movie "Public Enemy". They must have an incredible advertising budget.

12:05 pm - TGV train left on time. About 20 minutes in, passed a town with large castle off to the left. Short time later, passed a really pretty town on right with a couple nice churches/cathedrals. Getting some really great views of the country side from the train. Would take pictures, but we are moving so fast that by the time I'm ready, we've passed what I wanted. One thing I like about first class in the highspeed trains (French TGV, German ICE, Thalys, etc) is they typically have an electrical plug for laptops either next to or under the seat. Was able to plug in the laptop and get some work done. Battery was low, but got it fully charged. Super.


LEMONS, FRANCE

At LeMons, I inquired about the fastest train to Caen or Bayeux. When I told guy Bayeux, he gave me itinerary that had me taking 15:13 (3:13 pm), changing trains in Alencon, picking up 53713 train to Caen, then in Caen taking 3315 train to Bayeux. This would get me in Bayeux at 19:15 (7:15 pm). I don't understand his itinerary. The 15:13 (3:13 pm) train goes to Caen anyway, why change trains at Alencon? I'm going to take the train all the way to Caen. If my calculations are correct, I should just be able to catch at train in Caen to Bayeux that will get me there around 5:20 pm.

15:13 - 2 car regional train.
Le Mons -> Montbizot -> Vivoin Beaumont -> Alencon -> Sees (14h00) -> Argentan (16h13) -> Mezidon (16h37) -> Caen (16h52).

3:40 pm - On right hand side of train, just passed a forest of the exact same trees planted in perfect rows. I'd say it was a tree farm, but the trees were too large to be moved. Maybe it was a replanding after logging. Going through farm country now.

3:45 pm - Just passed a town that had three towers on right hand side of train. They looked like large martini glasses, except they weren't clear, they were tan in color. We were nearly past it before I got camera out. I got a picture, but not very good. On other side of road in the town is large cemetery. Looks like everything jammed together very closely.


CAEN, FRANCE

4:52 pm - Arrived in Caen. I was able to catch the 16h59 (4:59 pm) train INT 3311 bound for Cherbourg, which arrives in Bayeux so as to arrive 5:15pm. If I'd stayed with schedule train person had laid out, I wouldn't have arrived until nearly 8:00 pm. It just started raining again.


BAYEUX, FRANCE

Bayeux is a popular tourist town primarily known for the Tapisserie de Bayeux (or Bayeux Tapestry) which was probably made in 1066 to celebrate the conquest of William the Conqueror (1). Bayeux is also known as the first town liberated during the D-Day invasion. As a result, it survived WWII largely unscathed so that it now retains much of it's original look and feel.

Bayeux is described by France-for-Vistors.com as follows: "Bayeux, with its perfectly preserved medieval ensemble, magnificent cathedral and world-famous tapestry, is 23km west of Caen - a mere twenty-minute train ride. It's a smaller and much more intimate city, and, despite the large crowds of summer tourists, a far more enjoyable place to visit."

Plenty of sunlight left. I walked by the Tapestry museum, but even if I could get in (it was 5:30 pm by time I got there and they usually stop allowing entry 45 min before hand), I don't think they would appreciate my luggage. I went to Hotel le Maupassant, which was listed in Rick Steves France as "no-star, no-frlls accomodations, but its few rooms above a central cafe are sufficiently comfortable". They had room available for 40 euro (56 USD). I pre-paid for breakfast (additional 6.10 euro; 8.54 USD). The room on top (3rd) floor. It looked like a double. Good, clean room with plenty of space. I was sweating from climbing the stairs. Yes, another place without an elevator, only an old wooden spiral staircase. Dropped off stuff, then went exploring.

Went to Information center which is only a block away down hill. Got a map and walking tour map of town. So I started walking.

Bayeux is a cute town. It's small and easy to walk. The most prominent feature of the town is Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Bayeux (or Bayeux Cathedral). Even when you are in between buildings, it's hard to miss the spires that rise above the town. Fortunately it wasn't too late to go in and have a look. Originally concecrated in 1077, the cathedral was the original home for the Bayeux Tapestry (more on the tapestry in my next blog). It's impressive, as many cathedrals are apt to be, but I found some of the internal design elements interresting. If you've seen other cathedrals, you might look inside and say it's nice and not think much more about it. But, if you stop and really study the interior design and decorations, you see that it's a little different. As a sign in the cathedral states: "The roman decoration of the nave was executed during the episcopate of Philippe de

Bayeux Cathedral

Harcourt (1142-1163). Many details are reminiscent of Anglo-Saxon, Scandinavian, and oriental art." ... "They represent Bishop St Vigor, intertwined monsters, the monkey and the mountebank, the leopard passant. Between the arches, the stonework is carved to represent basket-work or diamonds with circular decorations." Within the cathedral, one can see the blending of architectual elements from different periods (roman and gothic elements). Holy images are offset by little demons. The little details are facinating. Fortunately, there are some signs to help the english speaking tourist so you can get the most from your visit.

After the cathedral, I took a street leading away from the front of the cathedral and leads to a park. There were some signs telling more about the history of Bayeux. At one time Bayeux was one of Europe's leading lace-making centers. It originally came about due to the arrival of a few nuns at the end of the 17th century. The Institution de la Porterie, originally intended to provide work for poor young girls, is one of the oldest lace-making training centers in the Bessin region. It continued under the nuns until 1905.

I noticed there was a British WWII cemetery on the outer edge of town. On the map it didn't look far, so I went for a look. It wasn't far to walk. On one side of a small traffic circle is a WWII museum with a couple tanks out front. It was too late to visit the museum. Diagonally across the traffic circle is the cemetery. Bayeux War Cemetery is the largest Commonwealth (British) cemetery of WWII in France, containing 4,144 Commonwealth burials. There are also 500 war graves of other nationalities, the majority German. In some respects it's similar to the American cemetery, but smaller in scale. I went down the rows and read some the grave stones. In addition to name, rank, unit, an dates, the British headstones list the age of the individual. Often we don't think about it, but many of these men were so young, many of ages 18 to 20.

Note: On June 7, 1944, the city of Bayeux was liberated by soldiers of the 50th British infrantry division, whose next step was Tilly sur Seules. However, the main roads ran through Bayeux. The narrow roads through Bayeux would be dangerous and slow. So the British constructed what was termed a "by-pass" around Bayeux.

Bayeux

That term is still used today and the road was the first ring road ever constructed in France.

Standing opposite the cemetery is the Bayeux Memorial which bears the names of more than 1,800 men who died in the early stages of the campaign and have no known grave. In addition to the names being engraved on the stone monument, there is a metal door in the middle that can be opened revealing a couple bound books that list the names in alphabetical order.

Returning to town, I went to the cafe at my hotel and had something to eat. I sat outside, then the rain came. I was ok under the awning, but the wind wasn't helping. As the rain got harder, I kept moving closer to the building. Then the rain would stop, and start, and stop, and start. Almost on queue, it would stop, clear and be nice, then cloud up, rain, then stop, and the cycle would repeat.

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Notes & Misc Information:
 • USD = United States Dollars.
 • Currency: The currency in the France is the Euro (EUR). The exchange rate was 1.40042 USD = 1 EUR or 1 USD = 0.71407 EUR as of June 29, 2009.

Sources:
 • 1. Tapisserie de Bayeux (Bayeux Tapestry): http://www.tapisserie-bayeux.fr/index.php?id=1&L=1.
 • 2. Bayeux War Cemetery: http://www.cwgc.org/search/cemetery_details.aspx?cemetery=2033300&mode=1.

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Part of trip: Around the World 2009

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