Versailles

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Versailles.

Back on the bus we were joined by a local guide who would take us to Versailles, a trip I was eager to make.

In a lecture in his series "A History of European Art," Professor William Kloss gives a very interesting review of the history of the creation of the Palace of Versailles. Typical of much of the bizarre antics of French royalty – which eventually led to their extermination – this was a story of deceit, corruption and egomania.

It appears that Louis XIV, the Sun King, had a Superintendent of Finance named Nicolas Fouquet. Using finances of questionable origin, Fouquet decided to build for himself the extravagant “Grand Chateau Vaux de Vicome,” using the finest architects, landscapers and interior decorators in France. He hosted a grand housewarming to open the Chateau and Louis XIV was an invited guest. This was a mistake.

The Sun King, probably jealous of the opulence of the chateau, and wondering where the money came from to pay for all this lavishness, launched an investigation. Wrong-doing was discovered, Fouquet was exiled, and Fouquet's team was re-directed to build Louis’ own “over the top” Palace of Versailles, in a village by that name about 20km southwest of Paris.

Louis was eager to get his royal family out of Paris. The excesses of the Royal Court were wearing thin on the common folk of that city and it was becoming a dangerous place in which to be a king. Versailles would be an escape to the country on an extensive acreage that had been used as hunting fields.

The Palace is indeed a spectacle, intentionally designed to outshine the Hapsburg Palace in Vienna. It features over 2000 ornately decorated rooms, perhaps the most famous of which is “The Hall of Mirrors” where The Treaty of Versailles was signed to end the First World War. The Palace is surrounded on all sides by lavishly landscaped gardens and water-works (which couldn’t be made to work – a long story for another time.)

In the courtyard that serves as an entrance for the public, serpentine lines again had formed, with waiting times for admission seekers said to be as much as three hours. Our tour gave us immediate entrance at a preordained time. We elbowed our way down a long gallery which runs the entire length of one palatial wing. Sited along the gallery are a host of reception, meeting and sitting rooms, and sleeping suites for the King and his Queen that are connected by secret passageways. As per usual, the crowds made it difficult to see very much.

Following the tour we roamed around the upper tier of fountains and gardens. This was infinitely preferable to the press of the interior.

Back in Paris we gathered for a farewell dinner at a classy restaurant. The salmon was excellent.

Our last hurrah was a late evening boat cruise for an hour or so up and down the Seine. This was moderately interesting for the river traffic, bridges and landmarks that we could see. The Seine was at high water, however, so the upper viewing deck was closed lest anyone be decapitated while sailing under a bridge. As a result, the entire boat-load was confined to the main deck where we stood three and four-deep along the rail, all the while breathing exhaust fumes.

We returned to our hotel and said goodbye to friends and travelling companions who would be heading for home early the next morning. Linda and I would be staying on in Paris for three more days.

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