There's Always a Reason to Return

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Today is our last full day in Paris.... it's amazing how fast these days go by. Sometimes I feel like I have not really seen or done a whole lot in Paris, while other times I feel like I have seen a good amount of the city. I guess I can explain the first feeling because we weren't walking around a whole lot. Paris is a large city, and while you can walk and see a whole lot in a single stretch, it's not the most walkable city. There are grand boulevards and squares and gardens, but it's very vast in comparison to a city like Rome.

I also never got a "wow, I'm in Paris!" feeling when I arrived, or when walking through the streets. Maybe that was because Paris is so well known and expected, maybe it was the cold, or maybe it was because Paris was not our first European capital/city that we have visited. I can't expect to get the same high as I did in Rome when I first landed and experienced the anticipation of the unknown. Just like falling in love for the first time, the magic of the first time you go abroad can not be replicated. I was amazed in Paris, I loved Paris, but I never caught myself thinking, "I cannot believe I am in Paris!"

Today was probably our earliest day. Not realizing how far north we were in comparison to Chicago, when we ventured out into the street to go see Sainte-Chapelle, Conciergerie and Notre-Dame it was still dark! After walking around in twilight for 40 minutes with Paris to ourselves, we arrived at Sainte-Chapelle virtually alone; it was Sunday and no one except a few other tourists were out on the street. At 9, when the chapel opened, the sun finally broke from the horizon and some cars appeared on the street. I was very surprised to see how quiet the city was until sunrise.

The Sainte-Chapelle chapel was astonishing, and we only got to see 3/4 of the chapel since some of the stained glass windows were under some general care and maintenance. The very, very old chapel (~750 years old!) was nothing but stain glass windows, high ornate ceilings, and an intimacy that I've never felt in a church before. The chandeliers appeared to be floating, the walls were covered in paintings and sculptures, and you got a sense of grandeur and royalty that I'm sure Louis IX felt he, and the crown of thorns relic he purchased (and built the chapel to house) deserved. And we didn't even get the full effect of all the windows letting in full sunlight! Next time we come back to Paris, I plan on being able to see how much more the chapel lights up with sun and stained glass. Tres magnifique!


We also went to see the Conciergerie, the very somber medieval building most famously used as a prison for the unfortunate, soon-to-be guillotined "criminals" of the French Revolution's Reign of Terror, as well as Marie-Antoinette and later, Napoleon III . It was very interesting to go through the rather large halls and rooms. We got to see reconstructions of cells and learn a lot about the French Revolution, most of it unpleasant and rather bloody. If being a victim of the French Revolution wasn't enough of a bad fate, condemned prisoners waiting execution in the Conciergerie didn't have it easy before being executed. The whole complex was dark, somber, and full of a presence of coldness. It was beautiful, but in the exact opposite way that the bright and cheery Sainte-Chapelle was: strange that both of these buildings were part of the same Palace, the Justice Palace.

Since it was a Sunday, and we were early risers, Keith and I were lucky enough to get be inside Notre-Dame during a service. It was magical. It reminded me of a cross between Conciergerie and Sainte-Chapelle in mood and construction: it was darker and more somber but incredibly large in comparison to Sainte-Chapelle, with some bright stained glass windows. We walked around the perimeter, quietly and respectfully while the service was going on. I'd feel bad being a tourist in the middle of the service if the church hadn't been so famous; I feel like most of the patrons were used to people and cameras' presence. And perhaps a lot of the patrons were tourists themselves.

The only thing I regret not doing in Paris was going up the tower to see the gargoyles. For the longest time, this was the thing I wanted to do the most in Paris. I wanted to see the view, the gargoyles, and the bells. BUT, the line was wrapped all around the side of the church. It being our last day, we didn't want to spend half of it waiting in line. I was a bit disappointed, but I guess it's a reason to come back.

The rest of the day was spent wandering around Trocadero, the Eiffel Tower, and walking around Champs de Mars. Then we had our going away dinner, which was amazing. We found a nice little quiet place in Montmartre and each had the 3-course menu and a wonderful bottle of some red wine. I had the a french bacon salad with vinagrette, boeuf bourguignon, and chocolate mousse. What a wonderful way to say goodbye to Paris.


So overall, Paris was a great place to visit. I would definitely come back when it's warmer though. That might be a constant complaint, but when you're outside walking all day long, it makes a huge difference; there is only so many times you can stop inside a cafe for "un cafe." Paris was good to us though, and I got a lot of practice with French. I will definitely miss the leisurely days of walking around Montmartre and catching glimpses of the Eiffel Tower almost everywhere we went. It is a beautiful city (but they do need to do something about the Metro smell... poo and throwup reeks!) and I'll miss it. So for one last time, au revoir from Paris!

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