In the Words of Joe Dassin ... Encore Un Jour de Ma Vie

It is probably completely psychosomatic but the third day of travel is always when I wake up feeling worn down and this time was no exception. I was definitely feeling the effects of climbing over 1,000 stairs and all of that walking on wobbly cobblestone streets … sore ankles and shin splints are very much a reality. But I was not going to be slowed down by a few aches and pains … I only have a few days here so I need to make the most of it. I don’t care if it kills me … Paris is waiting!!

I set out on foot this time around as most of the things that I wanted to see today were only minutes away from the hotel. I was amused while on my way to the first destination to cross paths with an older gentleman sweeping a doorstep and whistling the melody to Une Belle Histoire by Michel Fugain … definitely one of my favorite French songs. I of course had it in my head for the rest of the day … well until Joe Dassin took over later on in the day!

Passing by the enormous building of the Hotel de Ville, I made my way to the Centre Georges Pompidou. The concept to this building is that all of the infrastructure such as elevators and air conditioning ducts are on the outside of the building itself. The guide book literally calls it the “inside out museum of modern art”. The concept was that the inside space would therefore be more adaptable to changing exhibitions. It is truly a sight to behold with all of its tubing, elevator shafts and cages and escalator and all of it quite colourful.

There is a huge square adjacent to it lined of course with small cafes. Off on the side is the entertaining Fontaine de Stravinsky. The design is based on Stravinsky’s ballet The Firebird. I am not familiar with the ballet but apparently all of the figures of the fountain are part of this ballet’s story. There is definitely a firebird but there is also a skull, a heart, red lips, a hat, a snake and other such figures all spinning and spewing water in different directions. Definitely the most unique fountain I have ever seen!

Walking by the Tour St. Jacques, I headed towards the Pont Notre-Dame to cross onto Ile de la Cite. Ile de la Cite is considered the historical centre of Paris and is home to the Notre-Dame Cathedral. To think that at one point this gorgeous church was in such a state of neglect and disrepair that it was ordered to be demolished. Restoration efforts are still ongoing; evidenced by some scaffolding. The iconic photo is that of its façade with the three ornate porticos and two imposing towers. In walking around this impressive building, I actually found that it is the back that is simply stunning.

I made my way in and for some reason was expecting something quite ornate (as many Catholic churches often are). I was surprised to see that it is not actually; it’s atmospheric and sober I would say. Again the walls are of a simple grey stone. There is gentle hymnal music playing; adding to that atmosphere. There are 37 side chapels and there are incredible chandeliers hanging in each of the archways. There are no pews; just row upon row of small wood and wicker chairs. The stain glass is stunning and of course the star attractions are the two enormous rose windows on the north and south sides of the buildings. Apparently, the north window is still relatively intact with glass that dates back to the 13th Century. And I couldn’t really leave without lighting a candle. I had planned on climbing the stairs of the towers but even this early on the line was quite long so I decided to pass … the ankles will thank me later.

Seeing that I was right there, I decided to head down to the boat dock to pick up my ticket for the Bateaux Parisiens cruise on the Seine; thinking that I would come back later for the actual cruise. Just as I got to the ticket window, there was one leaving pretty much right there and then. The weather has been ideal since I have been here … sunny, quite warm and a little windy. Perfect for sightseeing! Sitting on top of a boat is a different story … it was a bit chilly but I was hell-bent against sitting inside and seeing the sights from behind glass!! I froze my ass off but it honestly just did not matter. The cruise is an hour long and it is actually amazing how many of the major sights are actually right there along the Seine. Between comments from the guide (that can seriously do some inner ear damage when you are under the bridges … just a little echo!), there was music from Joe Dassin, Edith Piaf and the like. We sailed by the Pont Marie (where as you go under you need to close your eyes and make a wish), the Conciergerie (formerly a prison where Marie Antoinette was imprisoned before going to the guillotine), the Musee d’Orsay, the Eiffel Tower (and how perfect … Edith Piaf was signing La Vie en Rose … and no I did not cry!!) and the Louvre to name a few to then return to the Ile de la Cite.

Needing a little refueling, I stopped in at the Brasserie Au Soleil d’Or where I had the most amazing Italian salad of tomatoes, basil and fresh buffalo mozzarella … with a glass of red wine (side note for Sophie … the waiter asked “un peu frais?” which meant that it was slightly chilled … just as you would have loved it!). Again, at least for me, the myth of the rude Parisian waiters is just not the case. He was actually very pleasant; even joking around trying to convince me that because I did not eat all of my salad (it was huge!) that I actually had to do the dishes!! I topped off the meal with an espresso and headed back out.

I made my way down the Boulevard St. Michel which is lined with boutiques and of course cafes. This led me to the Place de la Sorbonne, a small square just off the famed French university. From there, I continued walking until I reached the Jardins du Luxembourg. Having grown up with the music of Joe Dassin and his aptly named song Les Jardins du Luxembourg (which incidently has at the same time what turns out to be THE best description of this park and yet is by far the most depressing song ever!!), I was definitely looking forward to coming here. It is an absolutely gorgeous park. As you enter, there is the Palais du Luxembourg (now home to the French Senate) which is surrounded by a beautiful floral garden (and a number of gendarmes … I love a man in uniform but Louis de Funes definitely spoiled it for them … de l’huiiiilllle). Just off the Palais is a water fountain with ducks and fish and where little kids play with small sailboats. This is also where little Raphael kept saying “papa …papa …papa … j’ai des problemes de navigation …papa …papa… papa”. There are a large number of urns with beautiful bright pink geraniums and all along the paths; there are statues of the queens of France. You find people from all walks of life just enjoying this beautiful park … teenagers just milling about, young couples cuddled up on the lawns and benches, mothers with their children, a few artists painting, families with picnics and of course tourists trying to blend in with the crowd.

My last stop would be the Eglise St. Sulpice, made famous of course in Dan Brown’s Da Vinci Code. In reading the guidebook, it said that this church although imposing to see from the outside had little to offer inside. The author must have been dipping into the altar wine!!! Unfortunately, the church is going through some extensive restoration and so the majority of the outside is in scaffolding. The first word that came to mind when I walked in … cavernous! I am glad that I did not let the guidebook sway my decision to come here. The inside is again sedate with walls of dark grey stone and the side chapels are adorned with stained glass windows. What sets it apart though is the fact that all of the stained glass is of sober colours like white, grey, pale greens and black. The chapels are frescoed with beautiful murals although many are in a sad state of neglect. The archways have these huge low laying chandeliers and again there are no pews; just row upon row of wood and wicker chairs. The ceiling has no adornments really, just beautiful carvings. There is a statue of St. Peter and again his foot is worn down by the hundreds of people who have touched him in prayer. There is also a chapel for St. Denis … no statue of someone holding their own decapitated head here though!!

And so ends another beautiful day in Paris …

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