The last night in Munich was spent at the theater (just me--Alan's German isn't quite up to it) and it was another amazing experience. Most of you have heard me comment on the German's peculiarities in adopting everything classical (thank God, not the Rosenkavalier) to a modern
mise-a-scene. This time it was an 1895 Hauptman play 'Before the dawn'--about very rich
German capitalist's family's exploitation of the Silesian coal workers. Well, would you believe it, they changed it to a German family in Bali, quite conscientiously and beautifully, and the exploitation of the seamstresses (Nike, outsourcing, etc). and it really worked! The alcoholic, incestuous clan was contrasted with a dear, articulate and ineffective radical, a friendship left over from student days. Sad, that the comment was so prescient and so useless, at least in
practical terms--I always hope a few hearts are affected, both then and now.
The next morning, the lovely wandering of the train through the changing colors of forests in Germany and then France, medieval towns, fallow fields--quite relaxing. And now Paris! You all know that everything that can be said has been said--and it's all true. Some of the most amazing clothes, people, discussions, art, prices,hats, meals....Speaking of which, we followed Susan Griffin's recommendation and ate at the something Kitchen, a fusion of food which followed the latest fads in highly concentrated taste. The foamy ginger that accompanied a yam sauce will never leave me, nor will the bittersweet orange and lemon flavor that accompanied Alan's pork loin and the dessert which may have had a bushel basket of pears reduced to a few spoonfuls accompanied by a hint of cinnamon, vanilla, and sesame....a poem, a veritable poem.
We met the ever ebullient Leonard Pitt for dinner the next night and today was spent at
the most Viennese Restaurant, begun, in fact by Rumpelmayer, in Paris, Angelina's eating lunch followed by hot chocolate which, even in Lenny's experienced mouth, is a chocolate experience of a lifetime..a spoon would stand straight up in it if one would permit such a
desecration, Ahhhhhhh......
Dear ones, do not think this is all just about gratifying our taste buds, there have been paintings and sculptures and walking and walking and Chopin in the neighborhood church this evening ''St Julian the Poor" despite the pouring rain.
Tomorrow? A Doll's House done by the Mabou Mines, friends of Eva's from the 60's, who have
decided to cast all the male characters with dwarves! What an idea--not bad, really.
Soon, soon, in 5 days or so, we'll be home!