GR 20 is one of the most famous long distance walks in Europe stretching 180 km almost diagonally through the island of Corsica from the village of Calenzana in the north to Conca in the south-east. Guided by the red-and white waymarks the walk takes you on a real roller coaster adventure up and down through some of the finest mountain sceneries in Europe. Once you hit the trail you will soon understand why this tiny beautiful island of Corsica is sometimes referred to as the "a mountain in the sea" or the "granite island". Despite being only the fourth largest island in the Mediterranean Sea after Sicily, Sardinia and Cyprus, Corsica inhabits the highest mountians of any of the islands in the area. It actually has more than twenty mountains above 2000 metres.
The GR 20 was first created by the Regional Natural Reserve of Corsica in 1972 and since then thousands of people have completed this beautiful trekking route.
It definately is a challenging walk with its fair share of tricky terrain which involves some climbing and scrambling at times but for this the reward will be a great sense of personal achievement and some awe-inspiring views
that will literally blow your eyes away.
Paddy Dillon's Cicerone Guide " GR 20 - Corsica - the High Level Route " is an excellent guidebook to take along, with very useful maps and route descriptions.
I did this walk in June 2010.
DAY 1 : Calenzana 255 m. - Refuge D'Ortu Di U Piobbu 1570 m. 12 km - 3h48m
I was slightly frustrated when I understood that my backpack with my tent, sleeping bag and personal belongings was not on the Air Berlin flight that touched down on Calvi Airport in the afternoon. I was told by the airport staff that there had been a delay in Oslo which basically meant my luggage would be sent the next day or maybe even later than that . . .
So, without even a toothbrush I decided to take a taxi to Calvi and spend my waiting-time there instead of going straight up to Calenzana which was my original plan. Hopefully my backpack would arrive early in the afternoon next day so that I would be able to catch up on lost time.
Going to Calvi was a very good decision.
Calvi is a
small town on the north-west tip of Corsica. With its charming narrow streets and houses set in a scenic and pictuersque atmosphere by the waterfront this place is well worth a visit. One of the major highlights is to walk up to the ancient Calvi citadel which sits high above the port overlooking the sea and the mountains. Watching the sunset ,"coucher de soleil" in french, from here is truly spectacular.
Next day I was back at the airport to pick up my much deleyed backpack. It was almost 5 pm when I finally had it in my hands and with my ambition to reach Refuge D'Ortu Di U Piobbu via the high level route this day before dark, I literally had to run out of the terminal building and grab the first taxi to Calenzana. I did not really care that the taxi driver probably overcharged me with a staggering 40 Euros for the 15 min drive to the small village and starting point for the GR 20.
It was almost 5.30 pm when I started my walk. The weather was excellent with a nice warm temperature making it a perfect afternoon for walking.
a gradual climb soon gave a nice view of the village and the surrounding area. In some places there was a thick wall of vegetation with the path just cutting through. As I pushed through this dense area I suddenly stood face to face with a big stubborn cattle who was blocking my passage not willing to move an inch. I was not willing to move and neither was my new acquaintance so I decided to play the waiting game with him . . . After 10 min it was 1-0 to me. My big fellow resigned
It was all uphill until I reached a rocky gap at 625 m. From here the path levelled out a bit before a long ascent, offering excellent views back on Calvi and the Corsica coastline, took me up to the grassy saddle of Bocca a u Saltu at 1250 m. Reached this place at 7.30 pm.
A somewhat steep and technical section with assistant chains in some places had to be conquered soon after leaving Bocca a u Saltu. With a nice and dry surface it was fairly easy to pass this tricky area, but it definately demanded all my attention
and concentration especially with a 14 kg backpack on my shoulders.
After a while the Refuge came into sight on the other side of the valley sitting well below Mount Corona at 2144 m. I knew by now I would just about make it there before darkness. Arrived at the refuge-campsite at 9.05 pm and as I put my last tent plug into the ground the final daylight disapperead from the skyline.
Day 2 : Refuge D'Ortu Di U Piobbu 1570 m. - Haut Asco 1422 m. 14 km - 9h20m
Not many hours of sleep on my first night in the Corsica mountains but I guess it sometimes takes a few days to settle perfectly in a new environment.
I left the refuge at 6.20 am with yet another day of fine weather. First a steady climb up offering fine views back at the refuge, then a fairly steep descent on small loose rocks down to Ruisseau de la Mandraccia at 1510 m. From this point a long and pretty tough valley had to be conquered. The moment I reached Bocca Piccaia 1950 m. at the head of the valley I instantly forgot about all the
hard work to get here. The scenery that opened up was absolutely superb. A world of granite mountains as long as the eyes could see with patches of snow here and there offering some of the finest views on the whole GR20 route.
From Bocca Piccaia the trail turned left and it was a real joy to walk in the somewhat rugged technical roller coaster terrain with the Landroncelly Valley dropping to the right and excellent mountain views all around. Reached Bocca Avartoli 1898 m. at 9.20 am and Bocca Innuminata 1865 m. at 10.05 am. From this point it was possible to see Refuge de Carozzu which I reached at 10.55 am.
A 1 hour lunchbreak on the wooden terrace in front of the building consisting of "crepes avec sucre" + lion chocolate + 2 Corsica cola ( total = 10,50 Euros ). For a walk like this carbs are essential !
Left Refuge de Carozzu at 11.40 am heading for Haut Asco. A bridge-crossing just after leaving the refuge marks the beginning of the famous Spasimata Valley. The Spasimata Gorge is a pretty steep and rocky ascent leading to a high rocky gap guarded by
an Indian Head like rock formation. According to the books this valley can be quite dangerous in wet conditions but today the surface was dry and perfect ableing me to make a comfortable ascent. There were quite a few trekkers coming both up and down the valley this day.
Lake Muvrella sits at 1860 m. at the final end of the gorge just beneath the rocky gap guarded by the Indian Head. This section was still covered in snow which made my final push up the last nort facing gully a bit scary. The snow slope was quite steep especially on the latter part which demanded all my attention. I could see that people were taking extra care here even trying to avoid the steeper parts wherever that was possible. Reached the gap at 2.05 pm.
From the rocky gap a fairly short traverse took me to a nice viewpoint from where I could see my destination this day Haut Asco and a fine panorama of the Monte Cinto range. With many hours of walking this day the final descent to Haut Asco was pretty rough on the knees. I was very happy when I finally arrived at
the old ski station 1422 m. at 3.40.
Pitched my tent next to the Refuge Asco-Stagnu had an excellent dinner at Hotel le Chalet and went to bed.
Day 3 : Haut Asco 1422 m. - Monte Cinto - Haut Asco 2710 m. 12 km - 7h20m
My legs were a little bit stiff after yesterdays effort, but with yet another day of beautiful sunshine I knew this would be a perfect opportunity to summit Corsica's highest point - Monte Cinto.
Monte Cinto rises 2710 m. and is the main peak of the Massive de Cinto which seperates the Asco Valley in the north from the Golo Valley in the south. The first known ascent of the mountain was back in 1882.
The Cinto massif is formed of granitic rocks - mainly volcanic rhyolites and with its shapes and forms it really makes up a spectacular landscape structure.
A big sign saying "Monte Cintu - Capu Larghia - Punta Minuta " next to the parking lot outside Hotel le Chalet put me on the right trail as I left Haut Asco in the early morning hours.
The first 20-30 minutes was basically an easy walk
in the forest but after crossing a wooden footbridge a little bit further up the business got much more serious. From this point it was all uphill.
The red painted waymarks was quite easy to follow for most of the time but not always. When I reached the snowline below the gap of Bocca Borba at 2150 m. the signs were nearly completely gone in the white elements and I had to follow some footprints in the snow up some slopes which only seemed to get steeper and steeper and more exposed as I gained altitude. At this point I wished I had crampons like the Austrian couple ahead of me, but I had to rely on my salomon footwear and ability to balance carefully one step at the time. No safety lines to hold on to !
When I reached the Point des Eboulis ridge at 2600 m. at the top of the slope I could finally lower my guard again, relax and enjoy the excellent views which was on offer. Hopefully this was the end of the scary sections . . .
Well, it was not ! As I entered the ridge I turned left and kept looking
for the red paint marks again which would give me the right trail option, but they were really difficult to find. This is definately not a place where you want to experiment too much with patches of steep snow slopes, lots of dead ends and dangerous cliffs all around. If it had not been for the snow I do think things would have been much easier.
After I had done some careful searching I finally found the right trail crossing the ridge. Again I had to scramble and climb in places, do some nerve-wrecking 45 degree snow slope traverses. Reached the summit of Monte Cinto at 11.00 am. The summit is marked by a wooden cross.
The extensive panorama views from the summit were outstanding with a perfect 360 degree birds eye view of the whole island and beyond. Some even say that Monte Rosa in Switzerland 405 km away is visible on a clear day. Standing on the roof of Corsica it is easy to understand why the island is referred to as " A Mountain in the Sea ".
Coming down again was slightly easier than going up. At least I now knew the trail
on the upper part but still the same exposed slopes had to be negotiated with the uttermost care.
I was back in Haut Asco at 2.20 pm. When I told the gardien down at the camp where I had been this day he just pointed his finger at me and said "Police-Helicopter".
Day 4 : Haut Asco 1422 m. - Refuge de Ciotullu de I Mori 1991 m. 15 km - 9h0m
After yesterdays adventures up and down the very top of Corsica another very exciting day of trekking was waiting for me as I woke up in the early morning hours ready to take on the famous Cirque de la Solitude.
It was yet another day of perfect weather when I set off from Haut Asco at 6.20 am. A nice and gentle inital ascent up the valley was a good warm up with Punta Stranciacone 2151 m. and Punta Missoghiu 2201 m. on the right hand side as the trail sneaked its way up. At the end of the valley the terrain became steeper and more rocky with patches of snow here and there. Soon the Col Perdu/Bocca Tumasginesca was visible which marks the entrance
gate into Cirque de la Solitude. On the last and final push up to the ridge I had to overcome a very steep and exposed snow slope which felt a bit scary.
Arrived on the Col Perdu gap 2183 m. at 8 am. which sits between Punta Minuta 2556 m. on the left and Pic Von Cube 2247 m. on the right. From this point Cirque de la Solitude drops more than 200 m. straight down to its bottom before a steep, almost vertical ascent takes you to the exit-gate on the Bocca Minuta ridge at 2218 m. This crossing is by no doubt the most intimidating and talked about section on the whole GR20 route and there are just as many opinions about it as there are climbing and scrambling techniques to overcome it.
Luckily the Cirque did not look too crowded or busy when I set off from the edge moving slowly and carefully into the unknown. There were a few chains here and there for assistance on the way down and most people seemed to make us of them. For me the most frightening thing were the small rocks which came flying in the air
from above on a few occasions triggered by other trekkers as they were descending. Luckily no one got hit.
Near the bottom there was still some snow left from the winter and we all had to make a traverse across a steep snow slope. A wrong step here could by no doubt be potentially fatal and I could see that everyone who did the crossing were on high alert.
The last 250 m. climb up to the exit point at Bocca Minuta was pretty exposed as well with a few almost vertical snow slopes along the way and some technical spots which needed some extra care
I finally reached the ridge at 10.40 am. Beautiful views and a great place to eat some lunch which I did.
It took me 1 hour to reach Refuge de Tighjettu at 1683 m. from the ridge. Another 35 min. further down was Auberge U Vallone -1440 m. where I simply could not resist buying two very cold cans of Coca Cola to lift my spirits and fluid balance for the last push up to my final destination this day Refuge de Ciotullu di i Mori
Left Auberge U Vallone
at 12.45 pm. First a gentle walk through a dry forest and then a steady climb up towards the Bocca Foggiale rim at 1962 m. which was still covered in some snow.
A few hours later I finally reached Refuge de Ciotullu di i Mori which sits beautifully beneath the impressive Paglia Orba overlooking the Golo Valley below. There were not many people here this afternoon which made the whole place look very peaceful. My favourite refuge on the whole route :-)
The gardien made an excellent dinner of corsica soup, pasta and delightful fromage ( 18 Euros ) which rounded of yet another great day of trekking.
Day 5 : Refuge de Ciotullu de I Mori 1991 m. - Refuge de Manganu 1601 m. 27 km - 7h57m
Paglia Orba 2525 m. is the 4. highest mountain on Corsica and by many also claimed to be the most beautiful. If I had not been on a tight schedule like I was I definately would have gone for the summit. With still some very long distances to cover and not so many days at my disposal I decided to move on instead.
Left the refuge at
6.40 pm on an easy to follow trail down into the Golo Valley. Looking back the refuge soon became a dot in the landscape guarded by the impressive Paglia Orba on the right and the spiky Capu Tafanatu 2335 on the left.
Further down the Golo river appeared, one of the longest rivers on Corsica. It actually starts as a small mountain stream close to Col de Verghio travels through Calacuccia and Leccia and finally ends in the Tyrrhenian Sea.
On my last approach to Castel de Vergio 1404 m. I had to walk through a pleasant forest. The red&white paintmarks were not always easy to detect here and I had to stop a few times to guide myself in the right direction.
Reached Castel de Vergio at 8.50 am. Had breakfast at the hotel-bar, continued a few yards down the road and did some shopping at a small grocery store which had a good selection of food items, exactly what I needed for the next few days in the mountains.
Left the area at 10.00 am. First a comfortable 5 km easy walk in the forest then a slow and steady climb up to the oratory at
Bocca san Petru/Col St Pierre at 1452 m. ( 11 am ) which offered some great views towards the Cinto-massif.
The trail continued to go up as I walked across the slopes of U Tritore ( 1790 m. ) before reaching the impressive Serra San Tomaghiu crest which again had some fine views. A last push up across the the slopes of Capu a u Tozzu ( 2007 m. ) and the trail pretty much levelled out taking me to Lac du Ninu 1743 m. at 1 pm. Quite a few people around enjoying the nice,warm weather and fine views this day.
A pleasant last walk on an open landscape finally took me to my destination this day Refuge de Manganu at 1601 m. at 2.37 pm. The place seemed quite busy with people and tents especially compared to the other places I had been so far.
Day 6 : Refuge de Manganu 1601 m. - Refuge de l'Onda 1431 m. 21 km - 7h40m
I think I must have been one of the first persons to leave Refuge de Manganu when I made another early start leaving the campsite at around 6 am. Ahead of me
was an 800 m. steady climb up a valley to the Breche de Capitellu gap at 2225 m. which is the highest point on the entire GR20-route. The gap sits between Capu a i Sorbi 2267 m. on the left and Punta a e Porta 2313 on the right. As I gained altitude it was not easy to pick out the right passage across the mountain massif among its many gaps seen from the distance far below.
Higher up some of the red&white paintmarks were lost in the snow in places but the Breche de Capitellu gap was more obvious and easy to spot. Having walked in the shadow all morning the sun smiled back once I finally reached the GR20 high-point offering fine views on both sides. Another good place for a snack break.
Coming down on the other side across the Punta a e Porta a few knife edge snow slopes caused me some concern especially with the big heavy backpack as my partner . A slip here would definately not be beautiful.
Down on the left I could see the partly frozen twin lakes of Lac de Capitellu and Lac de Melo. A few technical
places here and there but still a very enjoyable walk with amazing panorama views in all directions. Just before I reached Bocca Soglia 2050 m. at 9 am looking back I could see other people starting to arrive at the Breche de Capitellu gap as well. A large sign here pointed the way to Refuge Petra Piana - Refuge de Manganu - Lac du Melu and Bergeries Grottelle.
I continued my quest in the land of granite and a climb took me up the slopes of Punta Muzzella. At 10 am I reached the wonderful undisturbed viewpoint of Bocca Muzzella 2206 m. sitting between Monte Ritondu 2622 m. on the left and Punta Muzzella 2342 on the right. In my opinion one of the finest "Boccas" on the whole GR20-route.
A 1 hour fairly steep descent took me to Refuge de Petra Piana 1842 m. A short break in the shade refilling my waterbottles at the source before I continued down along Ruisseau de Manganellu and into an area of forest which offered a nice break from the heating sun. Very quiet walk, just a few other people here and there.
Finally reached Refuge de l'Onda 1431
m. at 1.40 pm. The tent campsite was based in an fenced enclosure apparently to keep wild pigs and cattle away. The place had a decent selection of snacks and drinks on offer at the Bergeries de l'Onda "headquarter" right next to the tent-place. In the evening the gardien served a delicious veg. lasagne and this definately lifted the spirits among all the trekkers along the table.
Day 7 : Refuge de l'Onda 1431 m. - Bergeries d'e Capanell 1586 m. 27 km - 9h45m
I was accompanied by a beautiful sunrise as I left Refuge de l'Onda very early on climbing higher and higher above the campsite area offering fine views back on part of yesterdays trail profile and a valley below hidden in a carpet of clouds. It was pretty much all up until I reached the highest point near Punta Muratello about 1h20m after leaving the refuge. From this place it was all downhill again to Vizzavona, the half-way point on the GR20 route. There were lots of other people on the trail coming in the opposite direction as I came closer to the village. The last few kilometers was easy and flat on a
wide path which reminded me of a walk in the park. After all the hard work and relentless up and down since Calenzana this felt quite different.
Arrived in Vizzavona at 9.55 am. I could really feel that my legs had been working hard lately so I decided to take a long break here, eat some food, stock up on some goodies at the grocery store and enjoy the civilization for a while. It was quite encouraging to know that the hardest part of the GR20 was now completed and I must say it had definately exceeded all my expectations so far.
After 7 days of rough and rugged terrain coming out of Vizzavona felt like walking on the softest and most gentle surface for a long time. I now officially entered the southern part of the route - GR20 SUD.
A gradual gentle climb out of Vizzavona through a fine almost ghost-like forest took me to Bocca Palmento at 1645 m. From this point I encountered my first obscured views so far on the trek with fog making visibilty almost zero. This would follow me all the way to Refuge d'e Capanelle/ Gite d'etape U Fugone
1586 m. which I reached 3.20 pm. Paid 3 Euros to pitch my tent just behind the main building, had the coldest shower ever and spent the following few hours getting warm again.
Day 8 : Bergeries d'e Capanell 1586 m. - Refuge d'Usciolu 1750 m. 29 km - 9h10m
Weather had cleared up and yesterdays fog was gone from the trail when I left the campsite at 6.10 am. The first few hours was another fine and comfortable walk in the forest
Reached Bocca di Verdi 1298 m. at 9.10 am. Not many people around except the gardien and a few others. After a quick snack refuel a 550 m. ascent to Bocca d'Oru was ahead of me. First a nice uphill walk in an area covered with high trees and soon a more open terrain as I was moving up. Reached the broad and rocky gap of Bocca d'Oru 1840 m. at 10.40 am. An easy 25 min walk from here took me to Refuge di Prati 1820 m.
The weather was still nice and warm as I treated myself with another break outside the refuge. In the distance I could see a wall of clouds
moving in with the potential to change the weather up here completely which was not very uplifting. I decided to cut my break short and continue my walk.
A fine and visible path from the refuge was followed by some easy scrambling as I approached and passed just beneath the summit of Punta Cappella 2041 m. As I was coming down the winding trail the views suddenly went from outstanding to zero in just a matter of seconds. Along with the fog/clouds and wind hitting the mountain came a drop in temperature and the red&white paintmarks were all of a sudden really difficult to track. Another walker who was coming in the opposite direction was hesitating and wondering if it would be safe for him to continue. Neither of us knew if the weather would escalate into something more serious or if this was just a short spell that would disappear soon. In these areas mother nature is certainly capable of throwing anything at you no matter when. The next day I was given a lesson in what a mediterranean storm really is all about, but on this occasion the obscured weather luckily shrugged off after a while and the
fine views were back on the mountain again.
The rest of the walk this day was a pleasant experience. The views back on Punta Cappella with contours of the trail moving like a snake down the mountainside and on to a ridge was terrific.
Reached Refuge d'Usciolu 1750 m. at 3.20 pm. From the campsite area there were wonderful views south towards the Plateau de Coscione and Monte Alcudina.
In the afternoon the gardien offered a free wine taste to everyone around. I indulged myself into some local corsican sausage and fromage and spent the evening admiring the panorama views from my tent-place.
Day 9 : Refuge d'Usciolu 1750 m. - Refuge de Paliri 1055 m. 33 km - 11h45m
A windy night, but yet another beautiful morning with a clear blue sky. Left the campsite at 6.05 am up towards Arete a Monda which offered excellent views on to Monte Alcudina, continued on the ridge for a while before the path started to descend down to Plateau du Cuscione. The trail was almost deserted with just a handful of people here and there as I moved along.
It took a while to cross the open
plateau. After I had crossed the Ruisseau de Furcinchesu on a footbridgeand at 8.45 am it was all about a steady and gentle climb up the mountain which lasted all the way to Monte Alcudina 2134 m. The views got better and better as I gained height and in my opinion one of the finest sections on the southern part of the GR20 route.
Reached Monte Alcudina at 10.20 am. A group of hikers were already occupying the summit as I arrived admiring the outstanding views down to the rocky spires and towers of the Aiguilles de Bavella and beyond. Monte Alcudina is the highest mountain in the southern part of Corsica and the 34 th. highest overall on the island. Quite a number of people were either coming or leaving the place when I was there so I guess it might perhaps be a popular destination for many trekkers. The summit crucifix had probably been struck by lightning or something and was partly damaged lying on the ground.
A 1 hour steep descent took me to Refuge d'Asinau 1530 m. followed by a long walk in the forest through the Asinau valley towards Village de Bavella. The
walk in the woods seemed endless and it took me a good few hours to reach the village. As I approached the fog was already thick on the col. Another trekker I had met at the Refuge d'Asinau who was coming down from the the high level route through the Bavella Needles had totaly missed on the village and was coming in the wrong direction. Once he saw me he was reminded of his mistake and I think he was grateful for that. Otherwise he would have slept at the Asinau hut instead of going all the way to Conca this day :-)
Reached Village de Bavella at 3.10 pm. Very tired and very hungry I decided to see if accomodation was possible at any of the gite d'etapes there. No luck ! Everything was booked, not even a single bed available. With no other choice I settled down at one of the cafes to take a much needed rest and eat myself to fitness again, before I would continue to Refuge d'l Paliri. Went back up again the hill to see check out one of the most famous landmarks on the whole route the Notre -Dames-des-Neiges. Plenty of
other people up here this afternoon as well.
Left the Village de Bavella at 4.30 pm with my knees and muscles still aching after a very long day on the road. Fortunately the walk down to Paliri was easy and I finally reached the campsite at 5.50 pm.
After I had pitched my tent and taken another very very cold shower ( the reward for standing in a queue of more than 10 people. This place only had one shower-hut appearantly ) I joined some other trekkers on the Refuge terrace and shared the latest trail stories in a good atmosphere.
Once darkness fell we could see heavy clouds and lighting in the far distance. Hopefully this would not come this way and I went to bed early thinking everything was fine, to be ready for my last and final stage down to Conca tomorrow. But, I was so wrong !
A little after 9.30 pm the quiet campsite was hit by a fierce mediterranean storm of strong winds, heavy rain and relentless lightning. My tent suddenly became a piece of paper as the massive rain and wind battered its walls ripping of the plugs like tiny matches
and flattened what I had. In a sudden moment I was forced to go down on all fours to save and hold on to my object. Outside was a pool of water as I desperately tried to erect my tent again using heavy rocks on all corners to protect against the severe conditions. Inside absolutely everything was soaking wet and it was not even midnight yet. This night I did not sleep at all !
Day 10 : Refuge de Paliri 1055 m. - Conca 250 m. 14 km - 3h45m
The severe weather had calmed down by the time it started to get light again in the early morning hours and I was a bit excited to see what the campground looked like after such a horrific night. Absolutely everything I owned was soaking wet and with the moist temperature I did not really expect any of it to dry up for a very long time. My tent had been swimming in a dirty pond the whole night and desperately needed a thorough cleaning just like most of my other things.
Left Paliri at 6.30 am. With dense fog, obscured views and a very wet trail
this was not what I had expected when I started from Calenzana in beautiful sunshine just 10 days ago. I really had been looking forward to this last day to be a dry, comfotable triumph walk into Conca, but now the weather Gods had changed my dream scenario :-) Even my camera was starting to show signs of having been exposed to the wet elements, and maybe I would not even get the official finishing-line-photo once I got down . . .
Arrived in Conca at 10.15 am.
Despite a rough end to my adventure In the Corsica mountains I was very happy to have completed this amazing trek. Among the many different walks I have down I will definately rate this as one of the finest and most special of its kind. I would be more than happy to it over again in the future. Salut-Bonjour !
Top 5 list :
1. Toughest stage : Haut Asco - Refuge de Ciotullu de I Mori on Day 4
2. Favourite Refuge : Refuge de Ciotullu de I Mori
3. Favourite viewpoints : Monte Cinto summit, Bocca Piccaia, Bocca Minuta, Bocca Soglia ridge, Monte Alcudina
4. Favourite food : Hotel le Chalet in Haut Asco
5. Scariest moment : All the steep knife edge snow slopes along the way
Tot: 1.207s; Tpl: 0.039s; cc: 16; qc: 77; dbt: 0.0992s; 77; m:apollo w:www (188.8.131.52); sld: 3;
; mem: 7.3mb