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Published: July 10th 2013
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Diane's Garden
The garden of Diane de Portier looking from the far corner along one of the paths to the chateau We got away a little earlier than usual and after buying our baguettes and fillings we began the next leg of cycling by the Amboise Chateau, through the town and uphill past some very old houses before taking several turns to head out into the country - all in the name of staying off the main roads. It was a bit cooler in the morning with a nice wind blowing and shadows in our direction. We went through some forest and then into countryside mostly of grain growing but also dairying much like at home - the milking shed, large tractors, round bales of hay and a workers house (much better than is supplied to many farm workers in NZ).
We eventually arrived at the Chateau de Chenonceau which is a must see, as chateaus go. It is simply gorgeous with it's chateau build over an arched bridge on the river Cher. Surrounding the building are large formal gardens which we were very keen to see. There was Diane's garden (appropriate) ie Diane de Poitier's, with it's many clipped shrubs, a raised wall surrounding it, and paths radiating out from a centre fountain. All around the walls were huge tubs
of geraniums. A moat ran right around the garden to the river with the wall to protect it from flooding.
The next was Catherine de Medici's garden, abutting the river Cher and to the old original chateau moat. It was also formal but very pretty with coloured flowered beds in mauve and white surrounding standardised weeping pink roses. It also had path out from a centre fountain.
Also on the estate, apart from large areas of park and paths, was a 16th century farm and a huge vegetable and flower garden. It had some very unusual features like low espaliered apples for a garden edge and pumpkins growing up a trellis. There must have been enough produce to feed a village.
Then, into the chateau with the hoards to look inside the building. There were far too many people and it was uncomfortable. We had already seen stately apartments in other chateaus so didn't spend too much time going over the same ground. I did find the kitchen area interesting though with it's own butchery, huge larder and the biggest stove I've ever seen. Man, it must have got hot in that room.
The gallery overlooking
the river was lovely and it must have been a wonderful place to wander along and contemplate - not that those privileged people necessarily contemplated their good fortune to be living in such a place.
The other impressive thing about the chateau was all the lovely flower arrangements done throughout the building. They were large and colourful.
Onwards biking. The afternoon was now hot and I was lagging behind by not being able to keep up. The past few days distances have caught up and walking up stairs I have a bad case of dead legs. It was more important to get a pace that was sustainable as it was not easy terrain. We biked mostly along the Cher River but the path was bumpy and pot holed and we were constantly watching where we went. We passed other smaller chateaus along the way and eventually came to Veretz where we managed to find somewhere open to get some drinks and have a cool off.
Eventually we came to Tours through uphill and downhill, this way and that, continuing along the Cher River embankment with all it's acitvities and eventually over the river and into the city. We hit rush hour and it wasn't easy to keep 10 people together who were hot and had had enough biking and still had to find the hotel. But, mission accomplished, we arrived at the Grand Hotel near the railway station. It has AIR CONDITIONING. Yay!! A cool night without windows open and traffic noise.
We all went out for dinner and found a superb restaurant (rated by Michelin) called the CapSud. We would all recommend it. Good food, superb presentation.
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