Les journées du patrimoine

Yay for the Journées du patrimoine. For just one weekend, many historical sites and other points of interest throughout Europe that are otherwise closed for the rest of the year are open to the public. Europe makes it a point to cultivate its inhabitants. It’s a weekend to celebrate history and culture of a continent certainly not lacking either. And we tried to take full advantage.

Tours is full of awesome art museums. I’d forgotten what it was like to be provoked and challenged by colors on a canvas. The chateau (only a tower remains) was hosting a modern Chinese art exposition. It was interesting to see what art means to the Chinese, and how politically influenced most of it was. In fact, it made such an impression that we went both Saturday and Sunday.

Cloisters are a personal favorite of mine, so we checked out the one at Cathédrale Sain-Gatien as well as the cloister of Saint Martin, where the city’s first basilica was raised. Not much is left. But it has since been converted to a series of living quarters! Talk about a blessed house.

Martin of Tours was one of France’s most beloved saints and rose to popularity without any pedigree. He was paramount to the development of Christianity in the Touraine and why Tours became a pivotal pilgrimage destination. His most recounted story is that while his cavalry was passing through the city of Amiens in winter, he cut a part of his cloak to share with a beggar, who was said to be Jesus in disguise. His cloak thus became a national relic, cherished by future French kings. His mortal remains are still preserved in Tours, hidden away in the crypt of the basilica.

We also took a WWII-themed tour of the city. Tours was the temporary seat of the French government during its transition to Bordeaux. It was humbling to walk along with some of the Tourangeaux who had actually lived through what the guides and history books tell us, such as the city opera house that played Nazi propaganda films during the German occupation. A resistance fighter tried to blow the place up during a showing but his bomb didn’t detonate. Sounds awfully like a certain Tarantino film I saw right before I left for France… hmm.

Like many others, Tours was a city devastated during the War. A significant part of it was burned down during the war, damaging artwork and architecture beyond recognition. Various statues were removed and melted down for raw materials and luxury goods. But the European spirit prevails, and many of Tours’ most important landmarks and artifacts remain intact.

The Hotel de Ville (city hall) opened its doors to us with a brilliant collection of photos from the Touraine, giving me plenty of daytrip ideas. Also included were stunning shots of castles I had already visited, such as Amboise and Chenonceaux, compelling me to contemplate another visit to each to once again be awestruck.

Weddings take place and have their own designated room in city hall, and we caught the tail end of one just as the bride and groom were being showered in flower petals. And the largest room upstairs looks like Opéra Garnier and the Hall of Mirrors’ little sister.

In the center of the building sits an urn with the ashes of Tourangeaux deported to concentration camps, a tribute to a past in present. I’ve written about it before, but once you really get a feel of its history, it doesn’t take long to understand Europe’s rationale on cultural, social and relational issues. I invite you to listen to a lecture given by my idol, Rick Steves. Check out the others if you have the time.

Peace pays for progress

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