Visit to AZAY-LE-RIDEAU and SACHE

---

A day of adventures. I invited others to join me but ended up going on my own (those young ones just can't keep up to me!). I arrived at the TOURS train station at 8.30 am in time to buy my ticket and find the platform. The train to CHINON consisted of only one car, but it was part of the Ter (Regional Train system) so I could put my bike on it. The trip to AZAY-LE-RIDEAU was a mere 30 minutes. I rode into town, got some local maps and had a guided visit of the chateau--small but delightful. Lots of tapistries and furnishings both from the Middle Ages and from the XIXth century. As with all castles, this one was built over time: starting in the early Renaissance and contuing until the XIXth century.
I always enjoy the stories that go with each visit. This guide talked about the unique features of the architecture (i.e. a straight Italian staircase with hand rails carved right into the stone to save space) as well as the habits of the nobles who lived here over time. Only 1 King was here, that for only 3 nights - Louis XIII. The guide talked about the nomadic nature of the court in the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. It was fashionable to move from castle to castle (almost like we would go to a ski cabin or summer cottage), but they took EVERYTHING with them, including all the immense furniture, tapistries, pots and pans and of course all the servants. She told us that they required from 12,000 to 15,000 horses to move everything.
And all those stairs! I usually count the stairs--most of these castles have between 30 and 45 stairs between each floor. The nobles lived on the upper 2 floors. Kitchens were in the basement.

Next, I cycled to the village of SACHE (pronounced SASHAY) about 10 km away, where Honore de Balzac wrote about 30 of his works, including PERE GORIOT (which I have been trying to get through since February!). I cycled along a small road beside the Indre River which passed the valley des lys which was the inspiration for Balzac's LE LYS DANS LA VALLEE. Also I really saw what a hamlet is (un hameau) -- lots of little hamlets with a few homes grouped together--not even a village. Also several small castles or Manoirs and a mill on the river. Then I crossed the Indre to the tiny village of Sache which has 1 restaurant, 1 bar, 1 patisserie, le Mairie and poste. I had planned to have lunch here, but the only restaurant was from the XIXth century -- all fancied up -- the cheapest menu was 32 euros (and I wasn't ready for such a feast, nor was I dressed for it). So I had a beer at the local bar and bought a tartlette at the patisserie.
Then I visited the small chateau where Balzac did his writing. It was a thrill to see it fitted out with the furnishings of his period. I actually saw his desk, inkwell, bed, etc. Such a prolific writer considering he went back and forth to Paris (sometimes on foot) and only lived to be 51.
After my ride back to AZAY I popped my bike on the train and was back at the Residence in time for my siesta at 4.30! My day wasn't finished. See my other blog about the FETE DE MUSIQUE,

---