Day Eleven - Chillin' and Checking Out Château de Chenonceau

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Happy Birthday to me. I suppose this was a milepost as I turned 60 today and that monumental achievement was the whole reason I got to choose the itinerary for this trip, but it really seemed like just any other day to me when we woke up. As far as I was concerned, everyday of this vacation was special because I was not at work and I was seeing all kinds of new things that really interested me. I was truly thinking that this region of France might be just as fascinating to me as Bavaria.

After waking up in our budget hotel we took nice hot showers before packing up the car. As our trip was drawing to a conclusion we wanted to squeeze in as much as possible today. With New Year's Day following tomorrow, we realized this might be our last full day of sightseeing. If France was like everywhere else in Europe all the tourist sights would be closed for the holiday. In fact I feared things might be closing early today in anticipation of the New Year's Eve festivities.

The night before we had read a little more about the town of Saumur where we were staying. It was quite famous for its renowned sparkling wines. Knowing that there were a handful of wineries just around the corner from our hotel and remembering that we had seen signs in front promising free tastings, we decided to head back that way. After driving past a couple of obviously closed places we saw one that looked to be open. I hopped out of the car and went to the front door. A sign indicated that they'd be opening today at 10 am. We had over an hour to wait. Agreeing that we should come back, we went looking for breakfast.

Near our hotel we had spotted a shopping mall with a big Carrefours store attached. We parked in the huge, but already packed underground parking lot then made for the discount department store. As usual I went straight for the pre-made chicken sandwiches and soda. The girls loaded up on healthier choices while a few more souvenirs were dumped into the shopping cart. We got our share of stares from the mall shoppers when we took our bags of goodies to the food court and settled down for breakfast. With nice clean (free) bathrooms nearby this beat the heck out of our usual in-car breakfasts.

we returned to the Langlois-Chateau winery just as a well-dressed gentlemen was getting out of his car. He walked up to the front door, key in hand, and let himself in. We sat in the car waiting as he switched on the lights then came out to prop the door open. Before he had a chance to settle into his day of work the four of us piled out of our car and dashed inside. To our great relief he was friendly, spoke perfect English and asked if we'd like to sample some of the wines. He set up a table for us and we began our education.



Our accommodations for the night of my sixtieth birthday: http://www.domaine-moresville.com/domaine_moresville/Domaine_de_Moresville.html



Our New Year's Eve/Birthday festivities at La Patisserie: http://www.lapataterie.com/en/this-way-for-la-pataterie/pataterie-chateaudun

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Photos

Liquid Breakfast Stop
After our Carrefours breakfast we returned to the winery that had been closed earlier. We got there just as the shop was opening. First in line for freebies.

Getting Schooled in Wining
This being New Year's Eve I'm surprised more locals weren't popping in to buy some local bubbly for the evenings festivities. As usual, the Lunds would be in bed long before the clock ticked on into the New Year. Instead, we got our sparkling wine fix early in the morning.

We Were the Only Students That Showed-Up for Class
The shopkeeper knew what we wanted and immediately sent us to our desk while he went into the backroom for the wine school supplies.

I Wish They Had Sold This Poster in the Shop
I never heard of this vineyard and have never seen it sold in our state stores, but the wine teacher told us that their sales in the US were growing every year.

The First Class Project
The first wine we tasted was supposed to be their worst and cheapest because it was very sweet and akin to grape juice. It was all our favorite and the only one we bought. I think we were supposed to spit into the big bucket but we sucked all the sweet nectar out of our glasses. The spittoon was employed later when the supposedly better and much more expensive rotgut was served.

Cassie Does Not Like the Fine Wine
And she wasn't alone. What the connoisseurs consider delicious we find bitter and dry. I'm guessing the rest of Cassie's glass was poured into that big bucket.

A True Oenophile
Even though I was driving I participated in our studies of the local wines. They served us just enough to make me start feeling a little sleepy. I took advantage of the plate of crackers to sop up some of the alcohol in my stomach.

Langlois Chateau
Just to remember the name of this place. I really appreciated how patient and accommodating the sommelier was considering the early hour and the obvious fact that we didn't know squat about what made a good wine. He didn't even give us the French stinkeye when we walked out after buying just one bottle.

The Loire is Rising
The incessant winter rain seemed to be of little concern to the locals, but we observed the creeks and rivers flowing just over their banks in a number of places.

It May Be Wet but It Beats Dealing with Snow
Maybe they should consider growing rice instead of grapes.

Château d'Usse
(Had to cut and paste that title) At the winery the wine server asked us about our plans for the day. When we told him we were driving along the Loire river to see chateaus he was very eager to direct us to this particular one. My Michelin guide doesn't tell of much history associated with the place but it is interesting to read that one of the earliest owners was the King's cupbearer. The job seems to have paid well back in the day.

Naturally It's Closed
First clue that we wouldn't be going inside was the totally vacant parking lot in front. On a future visit maybe we can get to go inside to see the tapestries and Renaissance-era furniture.

A Closer Look at the Chateau
I was somewhat disappointed to learn that most of these magnificent chateau we were seeing were not medieval buildings at all. Most were built during the late Renaissance by wealthy nobles and merchants but never served any military purpose. Many were built over the ruins of what I would've called "real" castles.

Sleeping Beauty's Castle?
According to the green Michelin book this castle inspired the writer of Sleeping Beauty, Charles Perrault.

The Chapelle
Our guidebook rated the chateau's chapel as the "must-see" attraction in the area. We didn't see. Once you've seen one chateau you've seen 'em all. This place is not on our "we gotta go back" list.

Trying to Be Creative
More evidence of the mild winter in this part of France was the presence of cattails and leafy trees in late December.

Troglodyte Dwelling
The soft rock in this corner of France made it easy for peasants to carve out cave-like homes. We were soon driving through a whole village of homes set inside the side of a big white cliff.

So Glad We Stopped
We drove quite a few miles looking for an ATM. In fact, we drove miles past Chenonceau Chateau which was the main event on the day's agenda in search of funds. Finally we gave up and just went to the huge estate once owned by Catherine de' Medici.

It's Quite a Hike from the Front Gate to the Chateau
We parked in a big, nearly full parking lot on the outskirts of a tiny village with the same name. Cassie was being ornery and decided she'd stay in the car while the three of us went to tour the vast estate. But Gail successfully shamed her into joining us. Fortunately for us, tickets could be purchased with credit cards and the gift shop took Visa as well.

It's Drawing Ever Closer
We hiked a good half mile from the ticket office/gift shop, over a stream, through a forest, across another creek just to get a view of the main building. We simply followed a well-kept gravel road bordered by manicured trees on either side. Definitely a scenic nature walk best done in summer.