Wonderful and spectacular drive through the Ardeche to the Auvergne.

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We have experienced our third rain shower of the holiday and, just like the first, all the rain fell while we slept. Something rather magical about that.

Up and ready to go bright and early today. In fact at reception ready to pay before they were open. Then discovered they don’t take card so had to wizz along to the Intermarche to get some cash and while we were there top up with cheap diesel (£1.07 a litre, not to be missed) and pick up the coffee I forgot yesterday.

Still on our way from the campsite by 9:30 and with the errands done so a good start to the day.

The first section of the drive was sensational. We went cross-country along a spectacular river gorge and the scenery was made more dramatic by the low cloud floating along the valley. We were a little concerned when we say a height restriction of 3.1m which proved to be a very low cutting through the rock but the Tandy roof cleared it ok. There were lots of lovely places we could have stopped for a visit but not today as too many miles to travel. Largentiere, clinging to the rocks and an old silk town, was especially worthy of note for a stopping spot next time we pass this way.

After the river gorge the scenery changed completely and this time we drove high up to well over 1300 m on cork screw roads round and round and up and up, on the very edge of the steep hills, until we rose right above the clouds. We stopped to look down and had a view of the top of the white cotton wool clouds, from above, that we have only seen before from an aeroplane. The Col de Meyrand at 1370m was I think the highest we went but I absolutely could not have been the driver up there, even in a car, the sheer height would have had me frozen to the steering wheel. Well done Bob !

We were so lucky to have done this lovely drive on such a gorgeous day with the low cloud hanging mystically in the valleys and glorious bright blue sky on top of the mountains. We eventually came down and down again, at one point on a road labelled as 10% steep for more than 10 km. This took us through the fabulously picturesque countryside of the Auvergne with the lovely terracotta roofed building and patchwork fields. We passed close to Le-Puy-on-Velay which we visited a few years ago and then eventually got to Clermont-Ferrand. Wonderful views for miles and miles with the domed high range of hills as a backdrop. We used some motorway to get along a little faster but avoided tolls. The last few miles were through far less dramatic countryside, passing quite close to Vichy, to our campsite in the middle of nowhere, somewhere in the Auvergne.

I have decided not to name the campsite here but I will be filling in an ACSI campsite report and it will not be good. We used same campsite last year and only by accident used it again today. We will not make that mistake again. When we arrived at 4.20 reception was closed and there was no response when I rang the bell as directed nor when a German lady who pulled in after us rang it. Nor to the front door bell of the house. We drove in and parked up.

Returning to reception at 5pm I was treated to something of a really upsetting and rude tirade from the Mme. Campsite owner who was most displeased that we had driven in without booking and she refused to accept the fact that we had waited 30 minutes first, we should still not have gone in.

Her excuse for not being there :

- it could not possibly have been so long since we arrived as she had only just locked the door to reception then (eer was she calling me a liar(and the German lady as well) ? / she certainly lied herself). Oops.

- She couldn’t be expected to sit in the office all the time just in case 2 or 3 people turned up, she had small children to look after / She must have been changing the baby when we arrived. Longest baby change in history - and - Not my problem. It appears it is a real nuisance when paying customers arrive if are running a campsite !

- We had no right to go onto the campsite without booking in as it states on the door. I pointed out it also states that reception is open from 14:00 and that there was no-one there from 16:20 – 17:00. And that I rang but nobody came. How long was I supposed to wait? Got the excuse about small children again.

I foolishly asked her to confirm that the pea-green pool was not open. She said it closes end of August. I said it says 30/9 in the ACSI book and website (it does !), she said it says end of August. It doesn’t. Note: I was trying very hard not to argue and actually said that I didn't want to argue with her, just to pay for my pitch for the night.

I will be adding a review of the campsite to ACSI and it will not be complimentary about anything apart from the nice large hedged pitches, oh and the free wifi for which I am grateful. Everything else – nill point – including the smelly loos and for goodness sake don't risk sticking your nose into the children's bathroom.

Really felt quite upset by this entire interchange And for the first time in over 20 days I didn’t get my swim. Mr. Campsite owner said (sarcastically) did I really want to swim today (he thought I was just making a point about the pool). I said yes, actually I did and actually that was why Bob had selected this site. Grrrrrr.

We did have a bright spot to the evening when the campsite cat brought her kittens for a visit. She decided she hungry so I gave her a bit of pate we hadn't liked and were about to throw. Suddenly all 4 of her kittens appeared and she kindly made sure they all had some before having some herself. Bit tricky persuading her it was all gone !

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