Hello all! I woke up this morning to a sky painted pure blue. Excuse me, that's bleu. And thank god for that. After five days of waiting, the surf community was growing restless. Waiting is, I am told, a normal feature of surfing, but for this region, at this time of the year, the poor weather was very very uncharacteristic. But enough about the fucking weather already. I'm sounding like a Jewish grandmother. I've been in the water four times now. Getting a little bit of a groove. Groove in this case, for me, does not mean proficiency. It means comfort in the water, comfort on the board, and an improved understanding of the way the waves move. I have been getting up, standing and riding some waves. This is due to my primary training with
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