To Do in Dordogne

There are many touristy things to do in Dordogne, even in winter. Some of the more popular activities such as canoeing on the Dordogne River or camping are seasonal, but others are available. Some are even better in the winter, due to the limited number of tourists.

Cave Visits

The cliffs of Dordogne are riddled with caves and rock dwellings that were occupied by prehistoric people for thousands of years. Humanity's beginnings are revealed by archaeological finds and in large natural caves and grottoes. Sophisticated paintings and drawings of now extinct animals have been discovered. Some like Lascaux have been sealed from public view to prevent further degradation of the art found within. Lascaux has been accurately recreated in a replica cave that is marvelous.

Font-de-Gaume, near Les Eyzies, is a cave that is considered among the three best in the world for the number and quality of prehistoric paintings and it is still available for visits. The number of participants in these visits is being strictly limited and reduced each year and the eventual closing of this site is very possible. Because of the more favourable conditions in winter for the preservation of these paintings and because of the fewer tourists, longer visits, two hours in length instead of the usual one, are possible.

We took Tracy to Font-de-Gaume and were given an English speaking guide and we were the only three people for the tour, so we were able to see the pictures more closely. The visit was longer than usual and we were taken farther back in the cave and saw more than on our previous visit. The guide said that one cannot see these paintings without being moved and affected and he is right. Though created possibly 35,000 years ago, the artistic sophistication and ability are awe-inspiring. The artist(s) utilized the contours of the rock face to give the animals a three-dimensional look and feel.

There are other caves to visit, some which emphasize sculptures or engravings and others, geological formations. A whole visit to this area could centre around the caves.

Chateaux

It seems that everywhere you look you see a chateau, so much so that it is possible to become blase about their presence. One restaurant in the area is called Cinq Chateaux because you are able to look out and see five different chateaus as you dine. Although many are closed for the season, we took Tracy to visit two, Marqueyssac and Castelnaud.

Marqueyssac

Known primarily for its gardens, Marqueyssac is a private estate that dates from the seventeenth century. Designed for walking it is located on a spur of land that hangs 130 meters above the Dordogne River. More than 6 kilometers of paths lead through formal gardens, cliffs and woodlands culminating in a stunning belvedere from which you can view the surrounding countryside.

Castelnaud

Dating from the twelfth century, Castelnaud has its fame based in war. Changing hands during the Hundred Years War it was a bastion where numerous battles between the French and English transpired. Restored and filled with displays, the attraction is exploring the inside of this chateau. Crossbows, armour, weapons, catapults are all displayed with descriptions and re-enactment videos.

Once again, we were almost alone and able to slowly investigate every part of this amazing fortress.

National Museum of Pre-History

Opened in 2004 and open all year, this museum is amazing. It pairs very well with cave visits. It is located in Les Eyzies, not far from Font-de-Gaume. Admission is free for anyone 18 and under (but not for seniors).

Although they advertise that guided visits are available, we have been unable in three attempts to arrange one. The frosty woman at the information booth, the same one as two years ago, seems completely unable to understand any French that identifies the speaker as a non-native. She prefers to look away with a disgusted look and shake her head and speak as quickly as possible. Despite her attempts, we have twice wandered this museum utilizing the English monographs that she refuses to tell you of.

There are numerous videos, displays of archaeological finds of weapons and tools and recreations of prehistoric life and animals. The shear number of these is staggering and cannot be taken in during one visit. But it does give you the appreciation of the vast findings of prehistoric life in this area.

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