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In the grand tradition of Eirik the Red and other Viking adventurers, I set sail on the open seas, an oar in hand and a square sail flapping in the wind.
On the first lovely day in a while, I made my pilgrimage to Roskilde, a former seat of Danish power in the medieval era, to see the Vikingeskipmuseet (Viking Ship Museum) -- my first real immersion in the Viking theme since I arrived in Denmark. Although there are many Viking museums scattered about Scandinavia, and some with Viking ships, the Roskilde museum is unique in being a center of marine archaeology and for historical reproduction. Nine ships, of various types, were discovered in the Roskilde Fjord and, as much as possible, reconstructed. Apparently these vessels were deliberately sunk to slow an attack on Roskilde by Norwegian Vikings (yes, Norsemen attacked Norsemen) sometime in the 11th century. Just days before I landed in Copenhagen, a full scale reproduction of the largest of the collection, the only actual long boat/warship in the collection, set sail for Dublin. The ship, called "Sea Stallion from Glendalough", will be at sea for over a month. Even though I missed the departue of the
"Sea Stallion", I did get to witness a smaller expedition set forth. A group of 17 people are taking another, smaller reproduction, the "Helge Ask", for a two week jaunt around the region. I almost wanted to jump into the boat and head out with them! I can only imagine what it must be like to sail in such a craft on the choppy northern seas.
Since I couldn't join the Helge Ask crew, I did the next best thing - I went on the museum's own Viking ship excursion. What I did not expect was being made one of the principle rowers getting out of the harbor (the danger of being a tall, relatively young man) and then being put in charge of the rudder when we hoisted the sail! Those of you who know me well, know that I have difficulty with left and right. As I have never sailed, starboard and port also proved a challenge. But in the end, I steered us safely on the fjord and back to the dock. I felt like a real Viking!
Roskilde, although now a quiet little town, was once a major center of power in Denmark. For
that reason, the Roskilde Domkirke (Cathedral) is the most important church in the country. When you first enter, the interior is deceptively plain. But then you begin to realize that the church is a veritable treasure hunt for Danish royalty - every king (and most queens) since the Reformation is buried here, plus several of the most prominent medieval monarchs (including Harald Bluetooth, who began the process of Christianizing the Danes, and powerful Queen Margrete I, who established a united Danish, Norwegian, and Swedish state). The Danish monarchy is, I believe, the oldest continuous line in Europe. Rather confusingly, all the kings are either Christian or Frederik, alternating reign by reign. No wonder so many places in Denmark have these two names. Each king is buried in grand style, many in special side chapels.
My idyllic day of Viking ships and Danish history was shattered when I went to the train station to return to Copenhagen. Although Roskilde is a rather quaint town (there's even a neighborhood with thatched-roofed cottages), it's also home to the biggest outdoor rock festival in the world. The festival officially ended yesterday, but the muddy, smelly remnants of the four day music marathon were
still dragging themselves home. The station was a disaster of dried mud, as was the shuttle train I made the mistake of taking. It was so un-Danishly filthy, I barely wanted to sit down. Luckily, the trip took less than a half hour -- and I returned to the orderly world of Copenhagen.
But nothing will mar my day as a Viking!
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The discovery of North America
Hej James, One thing I have always been wondering; are Americans taught that a viking discovered North America an estimated five centuries BEFORE Columbus?