When we first arrived in Krakow, we took a quick walk around the Old Town, simply trying to find the Cubs ESPN game on a television. When predictably rebuffed, we planned on finishing our Guinness, heading to a supermarket, and making it an early evening. We swear. But then the bar filled up, and a group of Brits sat at our table, eagerly anticipating the Arsenal / Juvantus playoff match. Next thing we knew, we were at a really bad Polish dance club, sipping vodka and apple juice, discussing writing and debating whether Britain or America was more multi-cultural. So much for good intentions. The next day, Chris got hit with a pretty bad case of the sniffles. Eastern Europe is the place where smoking went after it got drummed out of the U.S., and every
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