Dark Beer and Dumplings

Sam is trying to figure out the safe in our very nice hotel room. After a turbulent flight, short taxi drive and warm welcome from the lady on reception we have settled into our far too comfortable room and are now are off to explore Prague and maybe find some tasty cuisine and good hospitality…

Took the tram through Hradcanska down to Malostranska Namka which is a nice open square with crazy architecture and huge buildings topped with gargoyles and angels gazing down imperiously. There are a number of different shops in the square including a small Czech supermarket where we purchased some local beer for an outrageous 21 pence a bottle. A theme seems to be glassware and there are numerous outlets lining the streets of the capital. From the square a cobbled street leads to the famous Charles bridge on the Vltava river. It’s an incredibly nice little bridge with towers at each end and its span lined with sculptures and statues. At night it sits perfectly amongst its surroundings with the shimmer of light reflecting from the water.

After the bridge is the old town, full of historical buildings, quaint little theatres, tucked away restaurants, bars and a myriad of tourist shops and stalls. Some selling nice paintings and water colours but most just selling any old tat. Around you beggars kneel and lean over in gestures of humility with tiny plastic cups before them.

We found a fairly local restaurant and sampled some excellent winter grub. Meat and dumplings, cabbage and of course some excellent Velkopopvicky or dark beer. All these things seem standard Czech cuisine and with the outside temperature plummeting this proved a very hearty meal indeed. Then it was back out into the bitter night for the trip back to our golden tulip room.

We awoke after one of the most comfortable nights sleep imaginable and went downstairs to investigate the buffet breakfast. There we found a very strange but tasty combination of foods on offer. There were potatoes, salad, fruit, spicy sausage, horrid looking brown porridge (which turned out to be delicious), doughnuts and lots of other mad things. We enjoyed sampling them before heading out for the day.

We set off on the tram into the old town to explore, with no set plan for the day. Despite the freezing rain it was great fun to wander the streets in and out of shops, along the river and through the main squares. The historic area of Prague is full of amazing architectural delights which I’ve heard called things like Baroque or Bohemian. In my mind it conjures up a kind of Moulin Rouge feel to it.

After a few hours and with hypothermia imminent it was a pair of freezing, drenched explorers who found solace in a very nice restaurant/cafe hidden deep in the heart of the old town. As we peeled away our coats and our ears throbbed as they began to thaw out we became thoroughly cosy and warmed through. Three hours later, after several beers and some winter soup served in a bread bowl, we resigned ourselves to the fact we would have to escape our cosy nook and face the Czech winter.

That evening we sampled one of the strangest versions of the musical cats we have ever had the misfortune of seeing. Crammed into a tiny theatre there was no escape as the drama unfolded before us. It’s difficult to put into words but it largely involved hand puppets and only a handful of cast members on a 10 foot square stage! It felt like I had consumed too much Absinthe to say the least. With stunned expressions we shuffled off into the night once more, heading in the direction of the trusty local supermarket. Perhaps in search of something to banish the haunting memory of what had gone before.

The following day the sun was out and we took a cruise on the river. We saw the city in a whole new light. With the sun lighting the pink, yellow and orange brickwork it took on an almost magical air.

Revitalised we struck out on a long walk up the hill for a traipse around the castle and cathedral. The cathedral of St Vitus is an unbelievable sight. The inside is cavernous and over the top ornate, the outside a gothic horror masterpiece. After admiring some elaborate tombs we thought we’d better buy an historical book to read up on the hundreds of years of history that’s led to all the amazing buildings on show. Also picked up a few gifts and despite touring around endless crystal shops couldn’t bring ourselves to buy anything.

Our last evening in the hotel we decided to check out the very posh hotel restaurant. While we were choosing from the menu, the waiter bought us some kind of appetiser thing in a dish shortly followed by bread. I was trying to decide what the things in the dish were as it wasn’t obvious and suggested possibly it could be to go on the bread. Jed decided to investigate and proceeded to shove a huge lump of the stuff in to his mouth. With the straightest face I have ever seen he looked at me and said "Actually, I think it is for the bread." The waiters must have thought we were mad and I laughed so hard as Jed chewed his lump of butter. The dinner came out with those domed silver trays and the food was amazing. I had tuna and Jed had deer - strange - but it was really, really delicious and we had a great time.

Prague has been a great city break with its hundreds of years of heritage and culture, warm welcoming cafes and people. And of course great beer.

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