Bulgaria pt 1

Jenny here, hi guys!!

Finally made it into Bulgaria after extremely long detour to get across the border from romania, which resulted in us doing 65, 90 and 85 miles on three successive days!

Only been in Bulgaria 4 days and already had a coulpe of epics! On saturday when we crossed the bridge into Bulgaria it was 7pm and we had already done 80 miles. Ian punctured crossing the bridge and by the time he fixed it, it was nearly dark. Cue rather thrilling (in a bad way) 5 mile ride along dual carrieageway into town of Ruse, looking for signs for centre all the way....not the easiest in the dark, trying to read signs in Cyrillic!!

Anyway when reached town, dived into first hotel we saw which turned out to be really nice. just as well since i succumbed to a stinking cold almost as soon as we checked in. Hmm thats what big miles do to you!!

We had no choice that to stay put for a couple of days, which wasnt so bad really since Ruse is quite a happening town, and although we have no clue what any of the signs or menus say (theyre all in cyrillic) everyone seems to speak english and are extremely helpful. The weather has been great so far too.... Ian went for a day ride iinto countryside and checked out a ruined village whil;e i was resting up..

Yesterday i still wasnt feeling great but we decided to set off in the direction of Veliko tarnovo, with the intention of stopping at Byalla, a town about 30 miles away. It was again grat weather and we went on detours to look at a rock monastery and a rock church. (12th century cave church with frescoes- pretty cool) Thinking we hadnt far to go, we had a leisurely lunch and got to Byala at 6pm. Following signs for a hotel we were looking forward to a shower and a rest. No to be. The hotel was full. A local girl who spoke english helped us find the other hotel. that was full too. Hmm. All this had taken an hour (we were followed the whole time by a kid squad on bikes who were fascinated by us and kept asking me what my name was) and it was going dark..........

Nothing for it but the 30 mile ride to Veliko Tarnovo in almost complete darkness the whole way, with a cold. We didnt get here til 10pm. And the first hotel was full. But soon after found a really good self contained room in $the pink bakery$, and within half an hour were sat in the st george restaurant having jacket potato with cheese and beans! Surreal. Think they get a lot of english visitors here!!

Generally impressions of Bulgaria are really good so far, the people seem really friendly, eating out is cheap, and the counryside has been nice too. There are roling hills and fields with unexpected gorges here and there. Veliko tarnovo is and incredible town all built on hills overlooking a river, with a huge ruined fortress.........

Romania was really a place of contrasts. If you visited just parts i think it wouldnt be a real impression. Gnerally the people just seemed vaguelly hostile for the most part and just stared at us. The worst experiences we had were some Roma throwing bread at us from a cart. Yet on the road alongside the danube in the south the people were almost ridiculously friendly, and I got to feeling what it mus be like to be a celebrity. Annoying!!

I wont be missing the dogs of Romania!! I was cycling up a pass along the really beautiful alpine style valley from Bran to Campulung, when i was ambushed by three dogs who surrounded my bike barking and knashing their teeth. I was terrified and screamed my head off (to no avail, Ian was miles back). All the time having visions of them sinking their teeth into my leg. I put the hammer down and eventually they dropped off. Ive never done 13mph up a steep hill before!


Despite this, there were some really good bits of Romania. Brasov and the surrounding area is really great. Exploring Brasov itself occipies at least a day, and theres a shop that sells the best white chocolate ice cream ive ever tasted!!! Peles castle at Sinia is unmissable, the interior being more impressive that the exterior. Full of carved and inlaid wood, secret passages, silk rugs, mirrors and glass from Venice, a turkish smoking room, a french room, a room inspired by the Alhambra and even a small theatre with a painted frieze by Klimt...

Only 4 weeks to go! Damn...

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