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Published: July 12th 2006
You´ve heard the names, 'Eddy the Eagle' (the english guy who tried to compete in the long ski jumps), 'Eddy the Eel' (the African swimmer who almost drowned himself in the Olympic 50m Freestyle event) and Caleb Ralph...
Well, now you can add Stewhan from New Zealand to your list of athletes who were just there to give it a go...
As a first-timer in a world cup climbing event, I was anticipating a challenge, but not sure where I stood in relation to that and the other competitors. It didn't take long to find out...
There is a large divide between competitive climbing on artificial walls and climbing on rock. I have been exclusively focussed on the latter for a good part of two years, but to go to a world cup is an opportunity that doesn't come along everyday so, despite my lack of preparation, I was keen to give it a go.
The bouldering competition is a celebrated annual event in Fiera di Primiera; a picturesque little town in Italia´s Dolomites. The small park at the heart of Fiera is flying flags of all the various competing nations from around the world. The wall is
set up, the weather is warm, people are excited and the stage is set for a spectacle.
After 5 hours in isolation, the familiar feel of butterflies in the stomach takes over as I await the call to enter the arena. The lights, noise, crowd and thrill of competition pulses through me once again...
There are six bouder problems. Points are gained by achieving set holds on the routes; for a zone hold (usually at mid-height) and for the top. The alloted time for each is 6 minutes with 6 minutes rest in between. This means that each competitor is in the arena for 66 minutes. During this time, I managed to climb approximately 6 metres worth of climbing, gaining not a single top or zone hold; a grand total of zero points and last place... Although, I do consider rock-bottom a fairly stable platform from which to launch my career!
So, with my role complete, it was time to take in the party atmosphere and a sporting spectacle. A large and enthusiastic reggae band played long and loud into the night and many of us saw the sun rise before a pillow...
The problems in finals
looked ridiculously hard, and it was truly boggling to watch athletes managing what looked impossible. Closely fought comp ended with victories for France in both mens and womens categories.
I would like to try and illustrate how strong and talented some of these athletes are... In the first round, I was unable to gain a single point, but there were many who managed to gain points on all of the boulders. The top 20 progress to a second round, where those who cruised what I found impossible struggled to get off the ground while others were still scoring on all problems. The final is a show of six freaks in which the result can be determined by the slightest of errors on a problem...
A week later, having recovered at least partly from the partying of the previous weekend, I faired a lot better in Hall in Austria. Emma, also of Team New Zealand, kindly offered me her tiny tank top to compete in. So, "Representing New Zealand, in the gay tank top, welcome Stewhan Hadfleas...!!" It worked, as I gained two bonus holds, finishing a personal best 58 from 61...
And what now? Well, If I´m
going to show my face again in future, I will need to sort a few things for myself; power, flexibility, improved technique and something to replace the gay tank top. At least from these experiences I know where to find the best Gelato and Pizza, where is nice to swim, and to always take a sleeping mat with me...
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