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Published: October 17th 2010
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Albania's a place ive always fancied visiting, it was one of those difficult political countries lying like a black mark on Europe's white wall, heading backwards while everyone else went forwards, but that was then.Now we're here, stood on top of one of the thousands of left over bunkers built in Enver Hoxha's time looking out over Lake Ohrid below and wondering what Europe's second poorest country had on offer for the likes of us.
Lots of mountains for a start and from our vantage point above the lake at 1000 m, a good down hill.This area will be covered in snow in about a months time according to the owner who's cafe over looked a view of a passing storm in the valley below.Autumn is in the air today,after a cracking down hill past a group of young guys with working hoses(Albania is king of the carwash) we raced on towards Librazhd with leaves blowing in the air and skies grey with water.Librazhd was 27km away and in the dwindling light of the day we had to get a move on, otherwise risk twilight out with Albanian drivers and after the stories weve heard, that was'nt an option.We
down from here
not far from the border like riding when the adrenalin's pumping though,it gets you there nice and quick.
Luckily for us it was mainly down hill.Librazhd has one hotel and after a serious blag by Tati we got the price down from a whopping 20 euro to a more managable 15 euro.Thats a lot of cash for a room in bloody Albania.It hasn't even got a tv.So long Asia!It did have a balcony though, so I cranked up the MSR stove and cooked our dinner while the streets emptied,come half past eight they were deserted.
Apart form bunkers(Hoxha's communist gift to his people in case of invasion) Albania has rubbish.Lots and lots of it.Which is a shame because its a beautiful country,the place is brimming with mountains and river valleys but choked with old fridges, discarded cupboards and more plastic than Michael Jackson's nose.Someone told me that during the regime the people would get serious beatings for littering,maybe this is them letting off steam.They will literally have to clean their act up if they want into the EU(applied 2009) and down size their imported car mafia a touch.Outside of the UK ive never seen so many GB plates.In Albania its not what you
Central Tirana
grey skies over Skanderbeg square know, its who you know that gets things done, usually in a black leather jacket.
After the dirty looking town of Elbasan we started a 14km climb across the mountain that barred our way to Tirana (in other words ive forgotten its name).The views over Elbasan valley were grand, we could see the massive, rusting metallurgical factory sitting quiet and abandoned in the middle of the valley.Back in the dark days of Hoxha this valley was so polluted that nothing grew at all.These days Albanian farmers line the hairpins selling goods from the valleys small holdings, enjoying a cleaner air to produce good crops.We bought grapes,figs,olive oil and pomegranites to help us climb to the summit.
While they're not the worlds worst drivers, being at the top of a pass with Albanian's at the wheel isnt the greatest thrill.Our way down was hampered by crazy over taking and general all round abuse of the human mind.By the time we reached Tirana I had knuckles whiter than a chinese soap stars skin.
For our first night we stayed in an expensive (12 euro each) dorm.Thats when we realised that dorms are'nt our thing.The first and last of this
trip, far too old to listen to 18 year olds telling how they just cant settle down after so long on the road.
We moved on to a larger room that isnt shared by five others, for the same price we got an en suite and a tv.And Albanian tv is right up there showing Vatican weightlifting and North Korean bungee jumping.
When talking about Tirana ,Micheal Palin quoted someone by saying ''you can't polish a turd''.I always wanted to put that to the test.And here we are polishing that very turd.Tirana's alright.Shame that Skanderbeg square has been ripped up.I think its for the metro station although the old guy I asked said it was for the buses.We took in the history museum, based in one of the soviet style buildings on the square,to be fair it was one of the better museums weve visited on the entire trip,it is a shame that these ex commie contries ignore their more embarrassing past and opt for the positive history approach but old Hoxha was mentioned only BEFORE he went mental,which was a shame.
If Ohrid didnt have 365 churches, Tirana definitely has 365 cafe's and more.We could afford
to eat out too!Great food which came out quick and at the same time, get these people a seat at the EU dinner table quick.
If you dont mind a bit of second hand clothing( we'll take 3rd hand) then this is the place to get kitted out.We got cheap water proof jackets and Tati bought woollen socks you could live in, bit by bit we are adding to our aquatic armoury for the run north.
Its mad to think that 20 years ago this country was politically land locked. No one was allowed in and no one was allowed out.By the look of things some Albanians have been making up for lost time, driving flash new cars and dressing like Italians although many remain trapped trying to make ends meet any which way.
From Tirana it was a rainy run through the commercial end of town and a straight run north towards Shkoder.With a break in the clouds and the appearance of a new two lane road(that sadly didnt last) we motored along this flat section of farmland with the ever present mountains for company away to the east.
In Lezhe we spent the remainder of our LEK on supplies and as night fell found a camp spot off the side of the road under a clear cold sky.
At Shkoder we crossed the old wooden bridge full of gypsy fishermen hunting carp in the Buna river and took a left towards Montenegro ,our 4th country in a week.Big thumbs up for Albania,nice place.
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