Blogs from Matagalpa, Northern Highlands, Nicaragua, Central America Caribbean

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My week in Matagalpa continued with more great meetings with women. Before I continue with additional stories, I thought I would share more about why I am making these visits. I am hopeful that I will be able to partner with CEPAD to expand the work they are doing to empower women in Nicaragua. They have an impressive program to give women the knowledge they need to start or improve their small businesses. A goal of CEPAD is that the women will share what they have learned with other women in their village along with some oversight from CEPAD. But there are not funds available to for these mentees to receive loans for their businesses. That is one way I hope to create a partnership. This would allow us to utilize the program CEPAD already has ... read more
Anita
Marisa
Reyna and Harold


I had a great week in Matagalpa. It was definitely my favorite weather and the prettiest views. This is the cloud forest area of Nicaragua. There are no volcanoes in this area, but there are mountains, lush vegetation and temperate weather. Before I arrived they had 3 days of torrential rain, but it only rained a few times while I was there. I didn't need A/C due to a great breeze blowing through my little cottage. A few times I even put a sweater on :). I had some very interesting village visits outside of Matagalpa. The first village we visited was Jamaica. There is an interesting belief in this community that changes in temperature will cause them illness and harm. So if the women spend several hours cooking over heat they spend the rest of ... read more
Leanna's Bakery
Yolanda and Her Husband
Amparo Shops


After an unsuccessful attempt at getting a ride from San Juan de Nicaragua to Bluefields by boat, we grudgingly got on a 5 AM Express (and vastly more comfortable) boat back to San Carlos (on the good advice of Freddy, the shark fin guy from Managua). Of course the military searched our bags thoroughly as we were getting on, drinking our sweet instant coffee from a styrofoam cup. We had a quick stop over in El Castillo where we confirmed with a nice coffee shop owner (originally from California) that there still is no boat to Bluefields, and also got some to go grub. At San Carlos, we hopped right on a bus to Juilgalpa. The city has a terrible bypass road, with loud, fast-moving traffic and litter lining the gutters. However there was still much ... read more
Sunset in Juigalpa
Example of electrical wiring seen in Juigalpa
Local art, Juigalpa


From Leon we travelled to the Northern highlands of Nicaragua. This whole region is off the beaten track, far from the backpackers super highway through Central America. This is where most of the coffee in Nicaragua grows. The highlands are the most rural in the country, and people live a simple life in the most basic conditions we can imagine. The boys herding the cows wear boots and cowboy hats, the women use traditional firewood heated kitchens to prepare meals based on tortillas and roast there small batches of coffee. We spend one day climbing, jumping off cliffs and swimming the Somoto canyon. Because of the rainy season the water level is nicely high and pretty wild at places. We climb across steep parts high above the water to go around the whirlpools, we jump from ... read more
Bearded trees
Somoto canyon
At the start of our Somoto trip


Geo: 12.93, -85.931542hrs: Location: Verandah of Bunglow 7 Altitude 1300: Broken sun but blowy....very blowy. Summary: today kicked off with the usual coffee at 0600hrs....late as the kettle took some 30mins to boil due to the feeble output of the solar batteries. I think we have drained the whole days supply.......other Eco bungalow occupants are sipping tepid yucca juice and switching of lights at every opportunity whilst we are scalding our lips on Barista quality Italian brew....."tough"...in the distance I spot a couple of "Bill Oddie" birdwatcher types setting off in search of the lesser spotted "Ooomegoolie Bird"..... EQUIPMENT ALERT: disaster has struck in the sponge bag department. A whole tube of shaving gel has managed to quietly discharge itself and coat my entire supply of Alka-Seltzers in scented gloop. We carefully hand wipe each sac ... read more
Lemons!
Bird watching lake
Bungalow 7


Geo: 12.93, -85.93Time Check: 1752hrs.....we are perched high in the mountains close to Mataglapa some 200km due west of the Pacific Ocean. Darkness is gathering and the sounds of the night are gathering pace producing a cacophony of chirruping from tropical "mini-beasts" out to strut their stuff.We are staying in an coffee plantation that has several well equipped and comfortable bungalows each resplendent with an "Eco roof" consisting of manicured tree ferns and other jungle vegetation. Hot water is solar powered and we are advised to think "GREEN" by switching off power at all opportunities.... Earlier in the day Elvis and our chirpy driver "Alvin" picked us up at 0900hrs.....they are great and are worked "to the bone".....airport pickups at 0400hrs........after 2hrs sleep.......demanding clientele from Miami who want cooked b... read more
Size matters!
Shake it all about!
Tobacco Plantation


Selva Negra is a paradise-like eco-lodge and organic coffee plantation in the mountains of Nicaragua between Matagalpa and Jinoteca. Their lodge restaurant sits on the edge of a huge fish pond that mirrors the surrounding alpine jungle. Among the inhabitants are a flock of about a dozen white geese that live and feed at the sight and that appear daily as they make their rounds of the estate. Like childhood images of farm animal illustrations, the dozen or so geese of Selva Negra line up like a single file of wibble-wobbling soldiers as they exit the water in perfect cadence to an unheard beat and march in a perfect line on one of the paved pathways that interlace the resort. Their mission, known only among their flock, includes marching past manicured flower beds, guest cabins, and ... read more


Matagalpa, like Esteli, is a nice relief from the heat and a good base to explore cloud forests, ecolodges, or even the seldom-visited national parks of northeastern Nicaragua. The city sits in a bowl of mountains, all of which apparently Admittedly, I didn't get to see too much of the city, as I was very sick during my stay here. I mostly watched TV in my hotel room and went for short walks around the city. There must be more tourism here during other times of year, but I get more stares and glares here than anywhere else I have visited in Nicaragua. As always, people are very friendly once I smile and talk to them, but I get the feeling that they are not used to tourists at all. I haven't seen another tourist in ... read more
Church Inside
Selva Negra Pond
Selva Negra Gazebo


Bonnie - We have been visiting Selva Negra for two days, outside of Matagalpa. This place is a preserve run with extremely up-to-date sustainable practices. it's an organic coffee plantation with workers who live here and earn the going rate but with free housing, 3 meals a day, medical care, school, etc. on top of that. The leftovers from the coffee shelling and husking process is composted with red worms, and used on the plantation. There are accommodations for 230 people at various costs, the restaurant serves organic food grown here on site. Lights are all CF's, etc. Outside our door is a lagoon with birds, including rather rambunctious geese. Howler monkeys sound like a pack of alligators. There are hiking trails and the forest is old growth (significant because much of the area around Matagalpa ... read more
g´s artsy side
selva negra chapel
our little bungalow


Gillian - with this country, this amazing place in the mountains of Nica. Richard doesn't know it yet but I owe him a cigar for pointing us in this direction and talking his mom-in-law into taking us under her wing. just have to say that the last night in leon, we had a really wonderful meal at mediterraneo. the indoor/outdoor dining was loverly, the lobster pasta a steal, and the veggie lasagna worth taking to go. after a short stumble, some nice guy pointed us through the market stalls to the hidden bus station and the bus to matagalpa was fairly painless. another little stumble in matagalpa where i discovered I didn't have all the nice info that richard had sent - it was buried in my email which was not accessible until the electricity came ... read more
waiting for the monos
more monos




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