Esteli is about two hours on an express bus from Leon or Managua, and it's right off the Pan-American Highway, so it's a pretty accessible place to cool off and check out mountain life. It's cleaner, cooler, and a little less hectic here, and it is a good base to check out Somoto Canyon and Miraflor. The central park is lively and, like everywhere else in Nicaragua, in the shadow of a cathedral. To the south is the business district, which has a variety of interesting, though basic, restaurants and stores. However, after visiting Matagalpa as well, I have to say that Matagalpa is much more lively and interesting. The surrounding mountains are much more beautiful as well. If you are choosing between the two, and don't care about the canyoning or Miraflor, I recommend Matagalpa.
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