We 'set sail' for the Isla de Ometepe on Monday, October 19th, leaving the urban comforts of Italian-made pasta, guitar, and cable TV behind. The island slowly revealed itself over the four-hour ferry ride. Ometepe is twice crowned, formed by two volcanoes joined by a narrow strip of land. Volcan Madera is older, inactive, and flattened at the top with a lake in its crater. Volcan Concepcion is still active, 1610 m high, and as pointy-headed as you'd like. We arrived around 6 pm in the dark and rain, and caught a cab/pick-up truck to the nearest hotel. That night we
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