Blogs from Guatemala, Central America Caribbean - page 8

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READ THE DOGS Certainly they are dirty filthy tangled but they lounge about on black cobbles their lids half mast somnolent opium eyes they wander between legs with no fear of the kick rarely a rib showing a man with a straw sombrero and garlic strung over his shoulder cradles a jaw in one hand while the other strokes the mottled skull teats hanging low and swaying from the scratching and another asleep between shotgun slung men in blue and even the pretty one with the yip is washed white and combed and in a day from sleeping under the cars is smeared and matted and waiting under my chair Camilo they are in the sun in the shade soundless save for the shepherd next door who in basso lazily barks in the middle of night ... read more
TWINS AND THEIR BROTHER
GARLIC GARLANDS


FEAST OF THE THREE KINGS When it stops they unload a long silver ladder this is no one man ladder from the long black trailer on which sits el gran manzana congas golden brass sax trumpets guitar drums percussion speakers as big as refrigerators the surrounding crowd that follows in the street slows congeals like the walls of a cell around a central plasma of costumed dancers you can't count or assess the salad of colors and choices blackfaced masked a man with a suicide vest a few shieks silver firemen dozens in drag yellow hair green shamrocked top hats what the hell is that the man pulls the rope clackclackclack the ladder rises he leans it up against the pole climbs alligator clips dangling black cable from his belt up up up into the knotted ... read more
Skeleton Face
In Motion
Muchacho in Black Face


I got a bit ahead of myself in the last blog. We actually spent some time in Tikal after crossing the border into Guatemala and back into Belize. Commence Tikal… We (Cheryl, Chuck, and I - Leila) arrived to Tikal Wednesday, January 10, 2018 in the afternoon. It was nice to return and to drive the countryside of Guatemala once again. Guatemala is a very beautiful country with endless hills, valleys, greenery, fincas, lots of livestock, and farms. It had it’s own feeling, as have really all of the places we’ve visited. I am always reminded it is best to take the back roads and take your time getting to know the place, the people, the history and culture, and also the sites, the sounds, and smells. Introduce yourself, make new acquaintances, act with respect, courtesy, ... read more
Hotel Tikal Inn
Our Cabana
Tikal, Guatemala


The Wonder of Acatenango You are looking from within but from where who sees who is the one looking the one wondering the sun filters through leaves of mint and lettuce is that kale you ask this volcano this light against the mountains eight shades of forest green layering against one another against a pale blue sky the sundisc shooting electric rays from behind Acatenango where up there he says one night he almost froze to death but now it is pink at the mountain sides the floating clouds purpling and blueing at knife edges now you see trees tiny on those very same far distant edges branch reaching for brother branch as blue light leaks between defining them singularly you wait neither inhaling nor exhaling for Fuego to blow forth it's grey hot breath a ... read more
Fuego and Acatenango
Wonder
Organic red leaf


Los Manos Green capers fall through his calloused fingers landing bouncing dancing atop thousands of the self same berries catching morning sunlight glistening precious smooth as polished dark jade and she her hands black carbon covered pack dull black charcoal into plastic bags stacking them in neat piles and over there he chops the brown husk covered yucca revealing the bright white moist flesh within his fingers encircling the knife mamita mamita medias medias una por dos their hands dive into the stew of socks some tiny some long some white some red camarones camarones libra por vente and they are beautiful translucent dried salmon colored shrimp he scoops them into the rough tray of his balancing scale that he levels above the wide straw basket his hands dusted in shrimp bits she picks the kernels ... read more
Old hands and corn
Dried shrimp early morning
Tomato volcano


I had finally started to feel well enough again so booked a bus up to Guatemala. The journey back up was a real luxury, with big leather reclining seats, air conditioning, films shown on various screens on the bus and drinks and meal service throughout. It made the journey back up to Guatemala very easy. I arrived just after dark in zone 10, an area which is known to be one of the safest areas in Guatemala City. I walked for about 10 minutes to get back to the hotel, although it didn’t really feel so safe. After arriving at the hotel, I asked the hotel security and reception staff if it was ok to go for a walk in the area, both which responded that it wasn’t advised or recommended. The next day I decided ... read more
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An early 5am wake up was required to catch out 6am bus to El Salvador. This was expected to take longer than the previous bus trip taking us around 12 hours to reach Santa Ana in the north of El Salvador. The bus became very full very quickly with many people standing, unable to find a seat. It wasn’t as nice as our previous bus and lacked working air conditioning, legroom or reclining chairs. Despite our previous luxurious experience in the bus, it was fine. After 11 hours of driving and stopping on the bus we arrived to the Guatemala -El Salvador border. The passengers queued up to get their exit stamps and later got entry stamps from El Salvador. Ben had told me about that despite there being an official stance suggesting there is no ... read more
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The day started again with the typical Flores breakfast. Pancakes with maple syrup, fruit juice and bottomless coffee, by the waterfront. This time we visited a different restaurant, called Casa Amelia. I spent breakfast reading about the history of Guatemala, learning that they only recently returned to democracy in 1996, and have had difficulty enforcing rule of law and managing crime rates since. After breakfast we had a few hours before the bus left for Tikal, so we bought snacks, water and sandwiches for the trip, bus tickets for the next day’s travel and packed for the day trip. Just after midday a very friendly minibus driver, or chauffeur as he referred to himself in Spanish called Manuel picked us up from our hostel. It was a bit of an empty mini bus with just us ... read more
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The arrival to Guatemala was pleasant despite two days traveling, three flights and only 3 hours of sleep. I’ve always had a feeling of excitement being in Latin America as it feels like the beginning of an adventure. I met Ben at the airport, and we ventured towards our first port of call, Antigua, a small charming city just outside of Guatemala City and much less dangerous. We woke up at 7am, the following day and decided to visit a coffee plantation and ranch just two miles from Antigua. I had heard that Guatemala is well known for coffee and wanted to see how it was made, and to try it from the source. We walked there through Antigua and a small suburban town just outside called 3 Ángeles. The ranch was just outside, Finca Filadelfia. ... read more
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We woke up at 6am and I visited the local bakery for a cinnamon pastry and morning coffee for breakfast. It was a very pleasant walk two blocks with the colourful colonial style architecture and empty street. At 7.40am the bus picked us up from the hostel to take us into Guatemala City to transfer to Flores in the North. We spent most of the bus journey talking, planning the rest of the days on the trip and a brief stop for food too. At 8pm we arrived at Flores. We woke early the next morning and decided to spend the day relaxing on the island of Flores. By the waterfront there were many restaurants serving pancake breakfasts with honey, strawberries and unlimited coffee for $3. I enjoyed this while looking over the lake. After breakfast ... read more
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