Blogs from Todos Santos Cuchumatán, Western Highlands, Guatemala, Central America Caribbean
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Maya Maya Pants On Fire
Published: April 3rd 2012Central America Caribbean » Guatemala » Western Highlands » Todos Santos CuchumatánEver seen water defy gravity? The spurt of hot water from our shower head was today trying awfully hard not to land on our flesh and retreat back to where it came from. Following 6 or so days of sporadic, frigid bird baths, our bodies were well and truly on the soiled side of squeaky clean. The water, which felt like the tears of God himself, eventually did its job, forcing the swarm of flies to retreat and find another suitably filthy body to pester. Quetzaltrekkers, as the name suggests, is a company organising guided hikes throughout the Guatemalan highlands. They have an array of options but the one that best accommodated our haphazard timetable was a multi-day scramble over the Chuchumatan Mountains from Nebaj to Todos Santos. The trek is a bare bones no frills ... read more
Theresa's time of reflection in Nebaj.
Published: February 15th 2012Central America Caribbean » Guatemala » Western Highlands » Todos Santos CuchumatánHola, Entry from Theresa: As Dave was enjoying his hike in the Altitudes of "way too high for Theresa to handle", I had some time to catch up on emails, watch TV, and read. Nebaj was a bit of a hole in that it rained every day, it was mucky and dirty, only about 10 C, and close to zero at night, and no place had any heat, or closed doors. I wore my thermal underwear and multiple layers all day and went to the only nice restaurant in town, on a daily basis. I was on first name basis with the waiters by the time Dave returned, 3 days later. Whilst checking emails, I had a time-line due to my hands freezing, so I lasted about 40 minutes. In the hotel room, the room was ... read more
Estuvimos Mojados.
Published: February 13th 2012Central America Caribbean » Guatemala » Western Highlands » Todos Santos CuchumatánHola Amigos. Entry by Dave: I decided to check out the Cuchumatane Mountains for myself by taking a guided hike from Nebaj to Todos Santos Cuchumatan. The route is about 40 kms or so and almost entirely above 2500 metres. I enjoyed the hike very much, even though the rain persisted for a decent chunk of the time. The scenery was varied as we walked along small dirt roads and trails through farmland, small villages, dense cloudforest and desolate plateaus. We slept and ate at local Ixil family homes along the way, and played games and shared stories with the many kids that lived in these houses. The photos will tell the story of the walk, which I thoroughly enjoyed, but I would like to share a story of what happened afterwards! After eating a late ... read more
Todos Santos, Guatemala
Published: March 20th 2010Central America Caribbean » Guatemala » Western Highlands » Todos Santos CuchumatánI love the Mayans. Sometimes very shy and reserved, once you get them laughing and aware that you genuinely are interested in their culture, they warm immediately. They have been abused by nearly every outside people that have taken residence here. But they just keep going on, holding to their traditions. I saw young people in Todos Santos wearing the same thing that their parents and grandparents wear, which is a rare thing in this world. Even Hueheu, a bigger town, has a warm feel to it. Guatemalans are very genuine people, warm and friendly, more polite than Mexicans in general. Guatemala is also a very frustrating place in which to travel sometimes. The transportation is slow and not very convenient. But one can experience a lot on one bus ride (I don't really like the ... read more
Final road trip: Todos Santos and the land of red pants
Published: June 11th 2008Central America Caribbean » Guatemala » Western Highlands » Todos Santos CuchumatánAs I mentioned in our Semuc Champey entry, we wanted to take a couple more roadtrips before we depart this lovely country. Our final item on the list was a trip out to Todos Santos, way out northwest in the highlands. It's considered fairly remote and isloated, so doesn't get a lot of visitors. We decided to time the trip with the visit of our friends Carlos and Djuna, who were visiting us from Seattle, as it's always fun to share these roadtrips with friends. So on Friday afternoon we went, car fully packed, to the kids' school to pick them up and head on out. As Lucas and Grace were getting in the van, Hugo's son Carlos Roberto came by to say goodbye to his dad for the weekend, as we had hired Hugo to ... read more
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And how do you like your chicken bus?
Published: January 6th 2008Central America Caribbean » Guatemala » Western Highlands » Todos Santos CuchumatánAnd how do you like your chicken bus? Today was foggy enough for me to finally leave Huehuetenango for San Mateo Ixtatan, the mountain town in which I´ll be spending the next eleven months. All morning I prepared myself for this ascent. For breakfast I ate the best piece of dulce de leche cake, had my last double cappuccino and bought the two best bottles of alcohol I could find. Of course, best isn´t saying too much. Because they were out of Johnny Walker red (Julio had probably ordered the last bottle in Huehuetango) and I had to settle for ‘Black prince Whisky´, a flimsy looking bottle lauding its authentic Scottishness but with tiny print on the back admitting it was fabricated in Guatemala city. With the help of a few friendly Guatemalan men, I managed ... read more
Todos santos
Published: January 31st 2007Central America Caribbean » Guatemala » Western Highlands » Todos Santos CuchumatánI write from the only computer here in the small mayan villge of Todos Santos, Guatemala, population 800, where the villagers still where the traditional dress and exist with little to no mordern influences. Overall, the people are gracious, slow, and friendly. had an amazing photo shoot today. just to ease your mind, never to worry about me down here- there is absolutely no shortage of male (fellow travelers) escorts. i traveled up here with an Isreali guy i met down in Xela, where i was studying the past couple weeks. http://www.flickr.com/photos/fatimih/sets/72157594578122165/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/fatimih/sets/72157594578050522/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/fatimih/sets/72157594554185366/... read more
Todos Santos
Published: December 2nd 2006Central America Caribbean » Guatemala » Western Highlands » Todos Santos CuchumatánPlaces Visited:- Nebaj, Todos Santos The next hike was a 7 day hike from Nebaj to Todos Santos. The main reason to go was to watch the day of the dead festival and the famous horse race. The day of the dead is a huge festival in Latin America and they celebrate it on the 1 & 2 of November. They take this time to remember past friends and family and visit the local cemetery with loads of different brightly colored flowers and celebrate the life they once had. In Todos Santos they also have a huge horse race, which is hundreds of years old. Before we came we weren’t sure what the race was all about and now after even more confused! Firstly the race is not a race as there are no winners, it ... read more
Penny´s trip from Nebaj to Todos Santos
Published: July 20th 2006Central America Caribbean » Guatemala » Western Highlands » Todos Santos CuchumatánI´ve been away for almost a week on a trip with the quetzaltrekkers through the villages of the Cuchumatane mountains, which less than 20 years was the scene of many devastating massacres during the civil war between the rightwing government army and the socialist Guerillas. Many young men were conscripted by force into the army only to have to kill their neighbouring villagers. Horrific happenings, and the people who survived all this still have the memories fresh in their minds. Hardly surprising that the villagers were a little wary of us as we passed through. Spent an interesting night staying with a family though who were prepared to talk to us about what it was like, and the current state of affairs for the people who live in the villages, which in short is pretty grim. ... read more
Osterentkommen
Published: April 19th 2006Central America Caribbean » Guatemala » Western Highlands » Todos Santos CuchumatánSemana Santa! Das bedeutet hier in vielen Teilen Guatemalas den Ausnahmezustand. Plakate werden ausgehaengt, wie man Staus vermeidet oder aushaelt, das Haus sicher hinterlaesst und wie man sich im Meer zu verhalten hat (schaetz mal ist das gleiche wie hier auch, Seepferdchen nur bis zur Markierung, danach muss man mindestens den Freischwimmer haben.... und natuerlich nicht direkt nach dem Essen ins Wasser!). An solchen Aktivitaeten nimmt allerdings nur der un- oder geringglaeubige Teil der Bevoelkerung teil, ansonsten hat die Kirche- bzw. eher haben die Kirchen- Hochsaison. Am schlimmsten ists wohl in Antigua, aber nachdem schon in Xela in der Woche vorher staendig Weihrauch geschwenkt und wahlweise Jesus, Maria oder jemand anders durch die Gegend gezogen wurden, haben wir uns in der Osterwoche fuer das Bergland und dort Todos Santos Cuchmantin entschieden. Ein rotweissgestre... read more
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