Blogs from Quetzaltenango, Western Highlands, Guatemala, Central America Caribbean - page 5

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Having been in Quetzaltenango over three weeks without managing to get to a museum, I eventually spared an afternoon to pay a visit to the Casa de la Cultura which sits at one end of the Parque Central. This now ranks amongst my Bizarrest Museum Experiences Ever (Right up there with the Lake District Pencil Museum). The first room I entered featured details on industrial uses of various chemical elements beside a display of old money, a fossil of something called a Gliptodonte and information on how to make chewing gum. The next room, the Natural History room, was both lined and filled with stuffed animals, with a few painted sea shells and human fetuses thrown in for good measure. Just when I thought I'd seen everything, I noticed that above my head, balanced precariously atop ... read more


On Saturday, I walked up Quetzaltenango's little mountain, Baúl, with Cindy from the language school. While it's unwise to climb Baúl alone, particularly in the afternoons, in the mornings it's a very popular walk for city dwellers. The path up passes under fragrant eucalyptus and pine trees, tranquil except for the subdued noise of traffic from the city below. From the wooded top, you can see almost all of Xela filling a large valley, which looks even more relaxed from above than it does from the streets, with low buildings and neighbourhoods broken up by parks and fields. Cindy pointed out a few landmarks like the Parque Centro America, the cemetary and the football stadium. Baúl gets its name from an old story connected with the place. It is said that the people who use to ... read more


Yesterday was an exciting day. Yesterday I was reunited with my bag. Guatemala City airport sent it swaddled in cling film, covered in a variety of red stickers, directly to the door of my room. The important thing about my bag arriving was, of course, that it was full of lots of lovely donations for the Nuevos Horizontes shelter. And as yesterday was my first visit, I think that's perfect timing on the part of the airport. I met Allison, the volunteer co-ordinator, and the two other new volunteers outside El Cuartito cafe and we walked to La Democracia (where the main market is) to get the bus. The shelter is spacious, purpose-built house set in an almost Mediterranean landscape. At the moment, it's overflowing with small children, mostly boys, who were very excited to see ... read more


Having now spent a full day getting thoroughly lost in Quetzaltenango, I feel I am qualified to call it Xela and write opinions of it. In St Petersburg, the guide book said that all locals affectionately called the city Peter, but I got the feeling that calling it that as a visitor would be looked on a lot like being introduced to the Queen and calling her Lizzy. Not so with Xela. Xela comes from the Maya name Xelajú, meaning under the ten, refering to the surrounding mountains. I´m not sure if there are actually ten of these - there seem to be many more, encircling the city in a hazy, wooded cuddle. I like it here. The town is quite quiet - on a scale of 1 to 10 where 1 is Cairo and 10 ... read more


Directly up 15a Avenida from the Hostal (and not at all in the place given by Rough Guide), La Dispensa Familiar sits hidden behind the busy market of La Democracia. Since I gather Steve is interested, I thought I´d give a little description. There are two guards and a row of lockers just inside the wide door, but inside things are much like a normal small supermarket, except a lot dirtier and more chaotic. I was somewhat surprised to see a man´s full torso sticking out from one of the top shelves - turns out he had climbed up to do the stacking. There´s not much fruit and veg inside, as why would you buy it from a supermarket when you could barter for it in the market? (This is something I´ve not quite had the ... read more


Left Hotel Dos Lunas at 6am to catch the bus to Quetzaltenango. In the Guide, this is marked as leaving town at 6am, in the leaflet for Linea Dorado it says it leaves at 8am, but it actually left at 7am, which I will take as a warning to call the bus station before any long distance journey. Victor, the driver from Hotel Dos Lunas, took me to the bus station via McDonalds which is the breakfast provided in the Hotel Dos Lunas Xela package, meaning that my first meal in Guatemala was a McMuffin. I enjoyed the bus journey, as once again I got to sit by the window. Guatemala is by no means a flat country, and when the view wasn´t blocked by the dusty side of a valley, think trees or crowded houses, ... read more


I finally arrived in Quetzaltenango (Xela) around 6pm. My host, Thelma, was stood at the door of an alleyway to meet me from the shuttle which had bought me to her door. It seemed her home had been built on a tiny patch of land that lay between houses in the middle of a block. There was no hallway to speak of, just a series of doors off the alleyway which led to the kitchen-diner, a sitting room, and Telmas room. There was a small bathroom next to the stairs. Under the stairs lives an aggressive Chihuahua, which I am permanently fighting the urge to drop-kick down the alley. Upstairs, corrugated plastic keeps the rain off the balcony, which leads to 2 bedrooms, one belonging to Telmas middle aged son. I have forgotten his name, but ... read more


So. This week couldn´t be much different from last. I ended last week sat on a derserted tropical island with some of my favourite people, sipping drinks in the shallows and snorkelling in the sea. I ended this one sat in my rain mac and my prettiest dress in an internet cafe sheltering from the tremendous thunderstorm illuminating the mountains that surround Xela. I was supposed to be going out with my fellow students from El Nahual language school, but the thunderstorm and rain got the better of them and they bailed. My journey here was pretty tough. Hannah and I left Utila on Tuesday.We´d made plans with a camp Brazillian cigar salesman called Alejandro (no, really) to travel with him as far as Copan Ruinas and stay overnight at his place, but that all went ... read more


The last day of building stoves is here, it seems like just yesterday we were stepping off the plane in Guatemala City. We are a smaller group but still have 3 groups building stoves. Marvin is training a new mason and that is interesting for us to see. Keith and Lisa worked with them while Paul and George worked with Oneisimo and Jim, Dana and I were with Don Juan. The spaces were very small so really assisting the masons was almost impossible, we mainly wondered about interacting with the families and taking pictures. The families today were probably to poorest we have worked with so far and along with that a number of the members were deaf mute. One of the younger boys was absolutely besotted with Lisa as she was able to sign to ... read more
open three stone fire
ceiling
getting ready to build


Well here it is Monday afternoon and I am now certain that I am going to live. I went to bed on Saturday night and that was it at 1AM I was up and very ill. I spent all of Sunday in bed not really sleeping but not feeling well enough to be awake either. I am not sure where the past 48 hours have gone but I am thankful they are now behind me. Lisa, Jim and Dana worked magic looking after me. So here I am sipping on gingerale and eating rice crackers.... life can't get much better. The rest of the group have gone out to the building sites and will build stoves again today, I hope to be able to join them tomorrow. I understand from Dana that the hot springs were ... read more
looking back at the door from Dana's bed
looking at the sink inside the door of the room
the second room




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