Lake Atitlan and Chichicastenango market!

We arrived in Panacachel by shuttle this time. The view of Lake Atitlan was amazing even on a hazy day like this. The lake was rough looking but even so this place gave me a tranquillity I had been looking for, for some time now. I felt so relaxed here, so in touch with myself, and totally at ease. We had decided to stay in Santa Cruz at the Iguana perdida; a small hostel on the bank of the lake. We had a great fish dinner waiting for our boat. It was a fabulous meal served to us by the owner and his little son, who was very eager to help us. He was the cutest ever (the boy that is!), and made sure we had everything we needed at all times. Best waiter I have had in a long time.

Our boat was ready to leave by the time the night had set and our dinner was devoured. It was dark crossing the lake, but you could still see the amazing volcanoes watching over the lake from all sides, and all the light from the small villages scattered around. We arrived at the Iguana perdida and moved into our little wooden lodge with no electricity and only 2 candles as light. It was lovely. Very small, (only one person should stand on the floor at all times) but very cosy. It reminded me of the cabins in Norway and immediately made me feel like home. I love basic life! The bathroom was of course outside, shared with everyone else, and the usual electric heated shower head… Scary stuff having a shower and just waiting to be electrocuted!

The lake had some effect on me I am sure. Maria and I were both tired by 7, and we slept well there, getting up early too. It was like meditating without being conscious of it. The lake had so much positive energy, and it felt good to be topped up. The view in the morning from the side of the lake was stunning. You could see the boats going back and forth, and you could see the stillness of the water in the lake. We could see across to the village of San Pedro which is known as Atitlan party place, so we had to go and just see it. It was horrible, dirty and druggy it seemed. Full of wannabe hippies, and it was definitely not my kind of place!

Maria and I enjoyed just relaxing and seeing the local area, and at the weekend we headed for the Chichicastenango market, which is supposed to be one of the biggest and best in Central America. Our expectations were high. Unfortunately when we left Santa Cruz the weather started changing, so just as we arrived in Chichi the rain started falling, so a long breakfast became our shelter in the “storm”. As soon as the breakfast was devoured and we felt brave enough to face the masses of vendors and bargain hunters we set off into the maze of market stalls.

I can not remember having seen so many colours in one place before in my life. Everything was colourful, from the products, to the people. Guatemalan handicraft is known for its bright and colourful combinations, and it is eye catching. Every street seemed to have its own theme. By this I mean that one street specialized in selling, blankets, one clothes, one food, one masks and so on. It was a fabulous atmosphere of both locals and travellers enjoying the hustle and bustle of Guatemalan life. Surrounding me was indigenous people wearing their traditional dress, and on their backs wrapped in colourful blankets their children sleeping peacefully.

In the middle of the market there was a church, and as we got closer we noticed that people were leaving fresh flowers on the step and incense was burning everywhere. We were told that they were preparing the church for a religious ceremony where they were celebrating one of their many saints. The flowers were an offering to the gods, and the incense was to clear the church of evil spirits. The church steps seemed to fill up quickly and as the smoke from the incense was filling the air, our lungs and our eyes, we decided to move on.

I have to admit I did not buy a single item at the market, but as I still love the thrill of bargaining I was more than happy to help Maria get down the price of her much wanted blanket. I also got my own little game going with the local children who played a big role in the market. They would come up to you and try to sell you something, give you their puppy dog eyes, and as you declined their offer they would look at you with disbelief and say but you promised me you would buy something! They swore that you had spoke to them earlier that day, and that you had promised to buy of them later. I said no, and they said, yes. We both kept repeating no and yes, until either Maria would buy something or another potential client came along . The yes and no game became the rule rather than the exception this day, and although you feel bad that you have more than them and therefore all common sense and emotions tell you to buy, but unfortunately when you are a backpacker, you have to restrain yourself from wanting to save the world as one you start it seems unfair to not give to everyone.

After some very delayed people finally made it back to the shuttle, after turning up at the wrong meeting point. Why would anyone think that a meeting point is in the middle of the market place where it is almost impossible to get by foot and let alone by car! The best part of the whole delay though, was the American lady sitting next to me who got asked how come she had made it to the right meeting point, and she answered “ because I am not stupid”…. Loved it. I giggled for hours I have to admit

We made it back to the lake and our little magic wooden hut. We cleaned up for dinner, and drinks, and enjoyed the Iguana Perdida's communal dinner! It was buffet night, and the food was delicious. The night turned into a cross dresses night which is an every Wednesday tradition at the Iguana I did not participate myself, but it was lots of fun seeing all the hunky men transformed into foxy ladies, and vice versa. The night was mostly enjoyed on the terrace talking to some of the other guests and listening to the lakes waves’ crash into the shore.

We enjoyed out last evening at the lake, and the comfort of our primitive cabin, and got the sleep we needed for travelling onwards the next day. It was time to move on and see even more of this bright coloured country.

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