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Published: August 12th 2007
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A girl and her cat
too cute not to capture this photo...she followed us for awhile... Hotel Tijax was our home away from home in Rio Dulce. Or rather across the river from Rio Dulce. It consisted of mini-cabanas (ha- that is not an accurate image...um...cabins) on wooden pathways through the jungle. We had to open the doors with padlocks, and each cabin had 2 beds swathed in mosquito nets. Kind of oddly romantic, like a canopy bed. Oh - and a fan. No bathrooms. But some had pets...a spider named Stefan, and other little monsters that I am pretending don't exist. Sweet River. Hot. Humid. Jungle. Rio Dulce is an aquatic community. There is one highway providing access to the region, but otherwise travel is done by boat.
So before I went, I found this quote by John Lloyd Stephens:
In a few moments we entered the Rio Dulce. On each side, rising perpendicularly from three to four hundred feet, was a wall of living green. Trees grew from the water's edge, with dense unbroken foliage, to the top; not a spot of barrenness was to be seen; and on both sides, from the tops of the highest trees, long tendrils descended to the water, as if to drink and carry life to Coconut Water/Milk Sucks
So I paid the 5 Quetzales and took the picture because the lady was nice enough to machete this coconut for me...but one sip was all I needed to determing that coconut water is gross. the trunks that bore them. It was, as its name imports, a Rio Dulce, a fairy scene of Titan land, combining exquisite beauty with colossal grandeur. As we advanced the passage turned, and in a few minutes we lost sight of the sea, and were enclosed on all sides by a forest wall; but the river, although showing us no passage, still invited us onward.
It fairly accurately describes the environment you enter into in this community...and I couldn't possibly describe it better. However, we were somewhat limited in activities. This is the place to explore the jungle, if you are interested in swimming through the air. Compared to the rainforests of Costa Rica, I was not as excited about this mini jungle. The highlight was a 5am kayak trip to go visit a family of howler monkeys. They only had 2 kayaks so it was only a few who tried not to disturb them as we watched. Four of us paddled our way through quiet glassy waters before the human world awoke. We entered the ungle by kayak and floated to the chorus of howler monkeys who " talk" only in the early morning and evening. A
Rio Dulce
On the sweet river sound like no other, it is one I am unlikely to forget. Haunting really when you are on open water. Our local guide led us through a stream covered in small green floating leaves. They coated the water like a blanket, opening around the kayaks as we glided to a spot wher ewe could ubserve the lives of monkeys. we watched in awe as they climbed, swung and howled...and occasionally watched back. Note to self: don't paddle under them...monkey excrement doesn't look like fun to clean off.
A Garifuna Community It is said that a trip to Rio Dulce is not complete without a boat ride to Livingston, a garifuna community that shows the Carribbean side of Guatemala. So off we went, a boat of 10, zooming through sheer rock faces, past pelican and bird islands, with a quick stop at another women's collective (pretty sure the guides are required to stop here), and a coco hut. While we were surrounded by spectacular natural beauties...it was a day as travelling observers. We had little chance to interact with locals, other than one curious girl and her cat (see photo).
While I was there I got an email
Nature
I got nature, but I wanted culture. Wouldn't want to go swimming here :) from a friend...highlighting his experiences in the area 5 years ago. It was interesting to see the difference in our experiences, and it reminded me that as travelers our mindset can play a big role in how we see the communities we visit. Also how the local community events can shape our experiences. While he visited Livingston during the Garifuna festival...we arrived on a day where we could experience the every day life of Livingston. But what I saw was one street, with plenty of people trying to braid my hair, and nothing distinctive. Looking back, I likely saw what I expected to see. I wasn't looking forward to this leg, and couldn't find a way to interact with the community. So I left not knowing much more than when I came. My friend's email shocked me back to life, and I set off with the plan to find the best thing about each remaining place.
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