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Published: August 12th 2007
Weaving Textiles
It was dark - only natural lighting...but here is proof that some of the textiles are still handmade.Santiago Zamora is clearly a poorer rural area than the tourist meccas that we have been frequenting. It's history, however, is quite unique from other small towns. We hopped in our organized transportation...the back of a pickup truck. Note to self: can't take students this route. Within minutes we were bumping along the road to Santiago Zamora from Antigua. We were accompanied by a bee...or rather, I was. After swatting it it ended up down my shirt and I had the choice of getting stung again multible times or exposing myself to the world. Exposed I was. No worries. No pictures to illustrate...only my travel companions and the Guatemalan country-side to worrry about. Sorry travel companions.
We arrived at Santiago Zamora to experience a snapshot of the town history in the form of an oral history. While it is clearly organized for tourists, the experience felt like an authentic insider's view to the lives of the women of this town. Please forgive any discrepancies...it is a translation...
About 100 years ago, there was a fire that destroyed everything. The town couldn't afford to rebuild so they took out a loan from a local landowner in the area. They used
En route to Santiago Zamora
Me with Nel (& a hidden bee) in the back of a pickup truck. Demonstration of the 'invincible' syndrome people get abroad when they think they can do things they wouldn't do at home. No seatbelts... most of the money to rebuild, but the men of the village took a good chunk of the money and spent it on alcohol. After 'awhile' (oral history timeframe....) the landowner came back to be repaid. Since the town couldn't do it, he took control of all the land, but lets them use it to sustain themselves while paying rent on the land. Once every 6 months the men also need to go work for him as free labour for a week.
After this a group of 18 women (now 15 since 3 quit to start their own group to make a profit) decided to use their handicraft skills to make money for the town. The men thought the women had no business outside of the home, but the women did it anyways. They started using the traditional skills of their culture to design and make products to be sold to tourists. These products range from little purses or keychains made by children, to blankets and table runners with sophisticated designs. They also make huipiles (traditional shirts) and mats. One of the women had the fortune of meeting a German lady one day on the bus, and this woman
Women's collective
Someone was happy to note that I am the tallest one in this picture. How can that be??? helpd the collective start marketing to tourists in the area. The collective had previously gone to many NGOs to ask for help ... to no avail. Sidebar: interestingly enough, I have started to hear about other collectives like this from local churches...and everyone seems to think the one they know about is the first or only collective. It seems to me like the success of these collectives is quite dependent on outsiders...
The women also applied for grants, but never received one. All the money from the handicrafts goes to buy books, pens, pencils, chalkboards, etc for the school and now as profits increase, for medicine. Their project has led to the building of a new school and now this small community benefits from the hard work of only a few women. Along with the story, told by several women, we got to see the trhree steop process to making colorful textiles. You see similar traditional designs all over Guatemala, with variations from region to region.
I also got to grind coffee on a ceramic hand-rolling press (totally can't remember what it is called). We made tortillas and collked them on a comal. Mine was a little lopsided...but it had a distinctly round shape. Finally we got to eat the tortillas we made, drink the coffee I ground, and try a traditional dish called Pepian with rice and chicken in handmade ceramic dishes.
It was a powerful experience to get insight into the lives of a small group of present day Maya. In the end, I only learned a few words of Quichue (sp?), but enough to express my gratitude for sharing their story & lives! Matiox!
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Mum
non-member comment
Insightful, marvelous commentary!
I think you have found both your vocation and avocation although you could do many things with your insights and unique cultural perspectives! I admire your ability to communicate through vivid, sensitive images! I share your marvellous vision of Tikal, although I never thought of writing it down! Your iames are wonderful. You have never lost your love of cats! love, Mum