Drama on Pacaya and tranquility in Antigua

We arrived in Antigua on a beautiful sunny day with clear blue skies which enabled us to see this gorgeous city in the clutches of several active volcanoes. It was a stunning sight seeing this compact yet large colonial city, with its cobbled street and lovely squares with its cold air, but yet inviting atmosphere. It was easy to understand why so many eager Spanish students choose this city for their experience 

We found the yellow house in Antigua and decided to stay there for 2 nights. We shared a room with another girl, who was not the least happy having to share it seemed. The shower was great, it was run on solar power and it was hot hot hot! Long time since the last shower was that nice!

Maria and I wondered around town to get an idea of what there was, feel the atmosphere, and get to know the streets. Our first encounter was the Bank! It was a little daunting when the man behind us came through the door, and the security man opened up a drawer for him to place his gun in! Where was I?....... I just never seemed to feel quite comfortable with the idea of so many people carrying guns around me. Maybe I am just strange, maybe I should get more trigger happy… I mean it seems the rest of the world is unfortunately!

Maria and I headed for another street to find lunch. We found a cosy little patio in a café with a great vibe. There were people sitting around learning Spanish, and there was a little girl running around keeping out of her mum’s hair whilst working on our food. The little girl was mesmerizing with her big black eyes, and her jet black long hair. She had the biggest smile ever, and she kept inviting us to smile right back at her!

After Lunch we decided to check out the prices at various tour operators to go to one of the active volcanoes to grill some marshmallows over the river of lava as promised in many photos. We finally opted for the travel agent back in the Yellow house hostel as they seemed the most serious, and that seemed important when getting that close to lava! We booked our tour and for some strange and discomforting reason we never asked about the safety measures in the area of the volcano, nor about the experience of the guide. I actually believe I had a blond moment and failed to realise the dangers of climbing up the side of a mountain filled with raging lava, or was I just feeling extremely brave that particular morning?

The next morning we slept in and then prepared ourselves for the trek that afternoon. We had opted for the second tour of the day! Looking back I do not think I was in my right mind climbing a volcano mid day with the bright sun and heat that involves. We arrived in the village on the mountain side where we were greeted by children of all ages wanting to sell us walking sticks. They seemed almost desperate, and I am sure that the money they got from these sales made a huge difference to their family’s income. It always saddened me to see that so many children were not attending school, not learning something more for their future.

As the guide met us, and began herding us like a flock of lost sheep he told us that this had previously been one of the most dangerous volcanoes to climb. Not due to the rivers of lava, but due to the fact that the locals before becoming business men preferred to rob the tourist who ventured into the area in search of adventure. I was definitely happy to hear that they had found more honest means of earning a living where it enriched their pockets as well as the tourist accounts of adrenalin kicks.

During the “stroll” (not) up the volcano, the locals offered us horses in case we felt the slope was too steep. Maria and I declined of course being in the brilliant physical shape we were in! (Got to love irony) The very fashionable Italians from our group were pushing past people trying to get up to the volcano first. I suddenly felt like I was 8 again! We made it to the top without horses, and still alive (partially at least), but the same can not be said about some of the people on the tour! I am very proud of Maria and I. (just for the record) Anyway back to the story!!! We got to the point of the volcano where the path turned into black sand, and pure volcanic rock. It became more strenuous to walk the slopes, and you could feel the heat from under your feet!

We had the last ridge left to reach the volcanic river to toast the marshmallows we forgot to bring, when screaming people appeared. They were bloody, hurt and not happy at all to say the least! They had unfortunately been surprised by an eruption, which meant hot glowing rocks falling from the sky. A new lava river was trying to form, and they were just innocent bystanders, but nature does not choose its victims, its victims choose nature! People from the first group had been hit by the burning rocks, their bags had melted, their clothes too. Panic had broken out, and the worst injuries had been caused by falling on the volcanic rock! They had dislocated arms, blood running from open wounds on their arms and legs, their shoes sliced open, dislocated shoulders, and fear all around!

Maria and I both tried to offer our help to the wounded and at the same time keeping an eye on any sudden movements as we were standing on loose volcanic rock that would tumble and make me fall by the slightest abrupt movement. If I fell so would the people standing below me as well. I have to admit we both burst into giggles when we realised the very cool, hip, and fashionable Italians had run down as fast as their feet could carry them without offering any of the hurt women help at all! Nothing like a bit of laughter to lighten the mood 

I looked around to find the guide for some advice as the adrenalin kick had now turned into fear in stead. As I stood there with the guide nowhere in sight, I felt slightly uneasy. Maria and I decided to move to make ourselves a little less vulnerable if the panic broke out again. We moved further up, and tried to find the man in charge of our lives for the afternoon. We finally found him moving down from the volcano, and we told him we wanted to try to get closer to the lava once before leaving. We spoke to another guide who told us how close we could go without any immediate danger, so we ventured on the rocks that felt like a hot plate under my shoes. I could smell the melting and burning of rubber as I stood there, trying to constantly move so not to have to walk down again in my socks.

We made it onto the last ridge, where we could barely see the lava river due to the masses of people accumulating. It truly made me think of what a dangerous situation we were in. Our guide did not even have a phone! Maria was very eager to get closer; I on the other half was starting to feel uneasy. My heart was beating so fast and all I could think was to get Maria out of there as well so we could get into a distance where we were safer if another river decided to form. Maria was not at all happy with my decision, but I did not care at this point.

We started our journey down the loose volcanic rock watching our every move, ready to crab the sharp stones with our hands if we had too rather than tumble and fall. We made it cautiously down to the path, and as we had managed to get our heartbeat back to normal, we see more flying rocks, and a new river forming more or less exactly where we have been standing just 20 minutes earlier. Everyone stood there, mouths open, grabbing for the cameras hoping for just 1 amazing shot of this marvel of a natural phenomena. I was shaking so badly that most of my photos came out blurred.

As we made it down the path in pitch darkness, we were all silent thinking about what we had just witnessed. I only had a tiny flashlight with me, but it was enough to get me down into the safe warm shuttle waiting for us. We arrived back at the Hostel shattered, and ready for a shower, food and bed. We found this amazing restaurant right on the town square offering a BBQ plate at midnight. We threw ourselves over the meal as though we had never seen food before. This of course caused by the “slightly” intense day we had had, and the vast amount of exercise.

My head hit the pillow that night and for the 3 seconds before I disappeared into my safe world of dreams, my thoughts went to all those people in the hospital who had probably faced one of their greatest fears today.

---

---