Loving El Salvador


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Published: April 4th 2008
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1: Return of the BIRDS 8 secs
Braided WonderBraided WonderBraided Wonder

Always wanted to have this done, so I gave some $ to a nice lady at the center park (Zocolo) in Huatulco. It lasted about 6 days, then my hair started to get frizzy and itching. It took a time to unravel, but worth it!
Well, we made it here in 5 days of wonderful travel. The week we were in Mexico in Huatulco was fun too, so I will start with that time period first.

We pulled into the marina and it was sooooo nice to have a hose with water to wash all the salt off everything. We gathered together with other yatistas heading south like ourselves. We went out to eat, hung out on each other's boats and traded stories.

We also did a good repair job on the radar, thanks to Mr. Bill, our sailor-helper guy. He is not the only one, there are many people out here who love to help and give info and advise. We suck it up as we are newbies to this lifestyle. I showered everyday lots, and lots, and would walk out of the shower and be wet with sweat within 30 seconds. It was probably sooner, but heh, 30 seconds sounds pretty quick. Still not used to the heat and humidity, but that will come. We were pretty much waiting for the weather window to cross the Tuehuantepec area, as it can be real nasty. We took off on a Friday morning!!!! We
Sitting PrettySitting PrettySitting Pretty

A nice day at the Zocolo in Huatulco
didn't even think about the omen about starting sailing trips on a Friday...big NO, No,. We thought of it after being out for most of the day heading south. then we justified it by telling eachother...First,.,. we were more concerned with getting past this area, and the window was NOW (kinda a "sooner the better"), then Robin mentioned what really matters is that when we left SD it was important no to leave on a Friday...Yeah, right! We thought of the omen all the time during our travels, but heh,.. we are still here, and the passage was very pleasant.

We saw some awesome dolphin activity...(NO FISH YET). We would see large pods of dolphins jumping out of the water, spinning and landing sideways. Tons of birds would be hovering. Obviously they were in a feeding frenzy. We would see this off in the distance. Then one day we headed right into a feeding extravaganza. Of course I didn't have my camera, and it happened so quickly. There must have been 300 dolphins in the area. It was really amazing. It was like watching fireworks....OOOOO! ahhhhh!, you get the picture?

then the next day we have a close
Robin's NemisisRobin's NemisisRobin's Nemisis

Always watching these behemoths, and wondering, wondering...:"Do they see me!"
call with Hitchcock's Birds revisited. There was about 20 little brown and white birds flying incessantly around the boat. Up and down, zooming over the waves, cackling in lots of different sounds, and circling, circling the boat. I took some video. One actually flew between the companionway and the bimini cover on the boat. Finally they left after a few hours of this activity. One friend, Theresa, had one enter their boat and sit in the cockpit. She said it looked like it had wanted to fly into the boat, so she went to close the companionway, and the bird flew off. We decided that it was mating season, and those poor females were being chased. Think of those Mexican dogs, but in a feather motif and smaller. Get the picture?

The last day of nearing out destination we came across another sailboat that we had met in Huatulco. We sailed with them for awhile. Have a couple pics of Winter Trek close hauled. then we tried to start the motor...AND IT DIDN'T START!!! Great. here we are finally reaching out destination, and thoughts of trying to anchor in a good strong 18 knot breeze off the coast of
Sailing Vessel YohelaSailing Vessel YohelaSailing Vessel Yohela

Rob & Theresa from Seattle sailing alongside. Nice close reach to El Salvador for the last leg.
crashing waves,,,. sounds exciting... not really... it can be quite nerve racking.... Robin did learn one trick with our friend, Mr. Bill. He knows how to jump start it with a screw driver. So we went that route, and HALLELUJAH it worked. We did run into a big fishing net at the fall of the evening, one day., We were sailing, and I looked aft of the boat, and saw this thick blue line coming from under the boat. ' Robin!! I shouted,

A couple interesting things happened on this passage, besides the unusual marine life sightings. we hooked on a net!!! We were going somewhat slow, and then we started to go really slow, because we were dragging this long net. We simply turned down towards the coast, and the net and our boat happlied parted ways (no remorse). Luckily we weren't motoring hard. A net caught in the prop is one experience we would LOVE to do without. Kinda like the LIGHTNING THING. Some experiences are best left to reading in books about OTHERS and their problems...if you get my drift, and I think you do.

One evening we were heading along, and I see the
RoadsteadRoadsteadRoadstead

Enlarge and can see the breakers on the beach behind us in El Salvador
clouds lighting up in blotches!! Heat lightning. "Robin... does heat lightning affect our marine equipment?" He didn't know, but that and some heavy with water clouds very a little troubling, but not down pour and no forked lightning... Since arriving, we have had rain in the evening....picture us in the middle of the night with our skivies on running around to close up the boat. Now we get it ready before we go to bed. Love those fans...

Now at this place called Estero de Jaltepeque you have to wait for high tide to cross a large sand bar to enter the lagoon. We had seen pictures of boats crossing the bar already, and it didn't look too good, but then again, we heard that many, many boats have done this without adverse effects, so we decided if they could do it we could. Of course we were a little worried., I would hate to have out engine crap out on us under way, but luckily that has never happened yet. We couldn't make it into the bay the first night so we had to anchor at an OPEN ROADSTEAD! Interesting terminology, huh? It means you are anchored without
The Waiting FleetThe Waiting FleetThe Waiting Fleet

Warrior and Rogla waiting at the Roadstead the morning of our crossing.
protection, with waves crossing on the beach behind you. Sounds like fun, huh? It was really blowing that day, so the seas were pretty worked up. Besides our friends on Yohela (a BABA 40), Warrior (50ft Chance designed IOR) Rogla (Halberg-Rasey 43). We were all bouncing up and down and side to side. Robin was not too happy with the chain he put out...ALL OF IT, so in the afternoon he took out of a locker another 70 ft. of chain and we had a regular blacksmith shop in the forepeak. Hammering and cursing, and lots of sweating going on to connnect the two chains together. We finished that project, and watched the anchor we had out ( 150 ft. chain). Robin decided we didn't need to put out more chain. A little nervous about the engine not starting. We now put on an anchor alarm if in doubt. It will buzz us when we drag a small amount. Robin was up a couple times that night checking. We didn't have to drop more chain, which was good, because we were somewhat close to the beach, and I'm sure those swells would really be bunching up, and more swell is
Crossing the BarCrossing the BarCrossing the Bar

Knee shaking experience, but in actuality, it was a very smooth crossing for all that day.
not good.

The next morning with crossed fingers, we started the boat, and it worked!! Yeah! The cruisers we knew at Huatulco, who had already gone over "THE BAR' were at the hotel Bahia del Sol, waiting for us to come in. A local guy in a GO FAST panga was going to come out and show us how to come in over the bar (AND WAVES). Mr. Bill was going to tell us what to do with a hand held VHF radio from this skiff. We got there first to the "waiting area", and met Bill and the panga. They came up close to the boat, and he asks to borrow my hand held, meaning I need to go below to hear the transmission, which unfortunately is located right by the engine...which just so happens to be running at full throttle as we go over the bar. Here we are ready to go, and I can't hear what he is saying at all. I'm practically screaming to him,..."I can't hear you with this engine on, Bill...what should we do!" He's mumbling back to me, and for the life of me, I couldn't hear him, so I popped out
Inside the LagoonInside the LagoonInside the Lagoon

Zoom in and you can see all the little homes and docks up and down the lagoon. Pretty neat place
of the companionway and we mostly used hand signals to show us the way to enter. It was a pretty calm crossing, although the waves were about 5-6 feet, BUT,,, BUT.,...They were NOT breaking waves....Whew! When we got past that part...I was very relieved. We motored in and tied up to the hotel dock inside the lagoon. The other three boats came in behind us. We all went through immigration, customs with the two navy guys, and started drinking $1 beers at the outdoor bar by the marina. We registered out credit card, and now only have to sign for drinks. We will get a 30% discount at the end of stay for all we spend. The food is a little expensive, but we have cheap drinks, swim in their pools, shower here and use the internet. So it's not too bad. Since our engine wasn't starting all the time, when we arrived , we kept it running at the dock. We had to leave the festivities to go anchor then turn off the engine. then it took us a time to put up the sun shades, etc. and go from passage making to anchoring mode. We did make it
Our trip to townOur trip to townOur trip to town

Very colorful El Salvador. Love the contrasts
back to the bar later, and there were still plenty of people there to drink beer with.

That night we all went to a PAPUSERIA, for dinner. Papusas are thick tortillas, either plain, or with something inside. We spent like $1 for 3 of them. They were OK, a little on the STARCHY side for me. In Huatlco, I saw a gal walking early in the morning, and said to myself, I am going to hook up with her in El Salvador, so we have been walking each morning. You would think that by 7 am it wouldn't be too hot... no, no, nooooo. But, it is fun . Drinking $1 beers is great when they are cold, and it's hot, but too many beers not too good for that bathing suit figure...right? (This is a non gender issue)

Yesterday, I helped out at a little adult English class on this island near us. There were four of us gringos. We were asked to sit with a couple students and speak only English with them for a couple hours. I was with a couple young mom's. One was really young...17 and had a 3 year old....yeah... right.....quite young.
New FriendsNew FriendsNew Friends

Robin with Jean (no.1) , Rob & Theresa
They were really neat girls, though, and I had a good time there.

Robin and I are now getting geared up to go into San Salvador, and take a side trip for a few days into the mountains. Looking forward to it, then heading south again. We did take a day trip to a town that had a wonderful outdoor market. We were the only gringos there. It was pretty interesting. Took some photos there too. We bought too much stuff, and then had to man-handle (or in my case, woman-handle) it into busses for the return trip.. Mostly drinks, beers, sodas, wines and lots of fruit. It was 4 heavy bags...The bus rides weren't too bad until we reached our last one that was soooo packed... We were squished in the aisles already, and the bus driver would stop for more.... I said "No hay espacio!" (Meaning...there's no more room!" Everyone turned and looked at me like I had said a terrible word... like a cuss word or something. There is not such idea down there. Some young girls came out of a seat together, and I popped through them and landed on their seat. I kid you
Where are we going, guys?Where are we going, guys?Where are we going, guys?

At a corner looking which way....our tour leader, Jean (no.1) leading us into the depths of super mercados of El Salvador
not... I literally "popped" through the space there, and was sitting AHHhhhh! A middle aged woman sat next to me and I proceeded to practice my spanish. I felt foolish, but I barged right ahead, and she helped me alot. Neat woman. Younger than I and had 12 kids,. the youngest 3 years old. She has 8 at home with her still. YIKES! I thought my life was a whirlwind with only two boys...... We talked about a lot ot things, so it was fun. Mostly I asked questions,. and she was kind enough to indulge in my splattering of spanish. I truely wished I could have talked with her a little about her thoughts on the civil war that happened, as she was probably a young woman then, but my language isn't so specific enough yet. Little by little the bus emptied out. Our stop was at the end of this long peninsula, where the sand bar begins.

It was a long day. We put away our things, then headed for those $1 beers and swimming in the pool. I like this life!!! But we need to get out of the hurricane area, bad rain and lighning storms
Market CornerMarket CornerMarket Corner

Zoom and see the lady with the traditional apron and the head full of condiments for a meal...Where is she going? A walking resturant?
coming this way soon.
Will take photos of our inland trip, and write about that later. Enjoy... hope everyone is well and we send our love,. Robin & Jean



Additional photos below
Photos: 15, Displayed: 15


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Crabs Anyone?Crabs Anyone?
Crabs Anyone?

Interesting lady selling a string of crabs. Didn't know she would have her mouth open like THAT!
My English StudentsMy English Students
My English Students

Was caught off guard that day... heading for the pool, so that's why I'm not too appropriately attired, but heh, they didn't care, and neither did I..
SunriseSunrise
Sunrise

An early morning coffee and sunrise. Tried to catch an early morning cyuco (home made canoe) crossing the lagoon, but he headed away from me.


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