The second and last week at the Ranch

Another week in Los Quemados, Bonao.

My second and last week in Los Quemados past quickly. In the day time Keith and I worked on the publicity. In one way it was a blessing to sit inside by the fans in the heat, but at the same time I could see my body getting paler and paler, which is juts wrong when in the Caribbean.

After hearing my boss shouting at everyone and generally treating people with no respect, I decided that maybe it was time to move on to another destination, as I would soon blow up if not! He treated his great workers from Haiti like animals, and that is what he called them most days. He constantly shouted at them, and in general made everyone around him feel like shit. I told Keith I would stay another week or so.




Vitalito was in bed all Monday with fever and chest pains, I for one was worried about him, as he seemed really ill, so I made it my job to look after him a little. I gave him some painkillers, and made sure he drank plenty of water and got some food in him. I think he appreciated the attention, and liked the fact that someone cared besides his brother. The motherly instinct just hit me; I just can’t handle seeing people in pain.
Suddenly Margarita started complaining about not feeling so well either, but even so she put on a brave face and kept working. I helped her out with Jameson in the sense that I would pick him up and carry him when he started crying. He is true mammas boy, and starts crying as soon as she is out of sight.



On the Tuesday or Wednesday, Vitalito went to the free clinic to find out what was wrong with him as he was not feeling any better. When he came back he was pale and scared. He had been given a prescription for Dengue Fever! Dengue Fever is an illness you get from mosquito bites here. There is no vaccine against it and no cure for it. I got so worried, and I watched Vitolito’s face go pale as he heard the news. It was all so scary, and I started thinking worst scenario!
After a couple of days Vitolicio was feeling bad, Margarita was no better, I came down with fever and flue symptoms and Vitalito was still in bed.


On the Wednesday night, no that would be Thursday, Keith went kayaking, and I came along to take pictures. I forgot to put repellent on, in the rush to leave the house, so standing by the river and forest in dusk left me an open target for the blood thirsty mosquito’s. Before bed time I counted about 30 new ones, the size of them caused them all to blend into each other and pretty much create one huge bite……. The next day I made it my mission to get stronger and better repellent (hoping I would find one that worked on men as well)!

Everything seemed normal until Wednesday, when we actually realised it was Thursday. How the hell did we loose a whole day? and it wasn’t just me, it was Keith as well. I thought I was loosing my mind. I actually got in touch with people back home to ask them what day and date it was. Everyone I spoke to told me it was Thursday 2nd, yet I had only worked for 3 days that week. Keith and I kept discussing where the extra day went, and how it had happened, but we didn’t have the faintest idea. We kept recapping the week, and it just didn’t make sense at all. But hey I won’t complain, 1 day closer to the weekend


On Friday Karim and her man arrived at the Ranch. She is thinking of doing some volunteer work for them as well. She was basically there to get interviewed, but Marshall sent Keith and me to talk to her in stead. In the evening night whilst Keith took out some guests kayaking I had dinner with the new arrivals. I haven’t even managed to swallow the last bite, before the neighbour boy turns up at the table and says he wants to play pool. I tried not to be rude to anyone, so I tried to involve them all in conversation. The topic quickly turned to if I liked Dominican men! (Not again I thought) Dominican men think they are god’s gift to woman. They cannot fathom the idea that a girl doesn’t want them. They keep saying that you have not enjoyed life until you have enjoyed a Dominican!

Strangest thing here is that after asking your name, the only 2 other questions of vital importance are 1. Are you married? and 2. How many children do you have? When I answer no, and none, they look at me as if I am mad!!!!! Sex here is the biggest hobby, and very noticeable by the fact that everyone over 13 has kids, have been married several times by the age of 24, and the wide spread of Aids.
When I try to tell them that in my culture sleeping around gives a girl a bad reputation they don’t understand why, because as they say, the body is supposed to be used to enjoy one of the many pleasures in life. Such a casual attitude to sex, and let’s not forget the words te quiero (I love you). They call out to people on the street just walking by that they love them. It is used more frequently here then hello I think;)
Anyway, back to the point……. Yes so after I managed to get out of the conversation me and the neighbour played some pool. The whole time he was asking me to the disco to dance, to go for a drink, and even to marry him!!!!!!! I kept telling him 19 was a little too young for me, but he shook his head and carried on trying. They are very persistent people, I will give them that!

After a while Keith and the boys came back and they joined in, I however was knackered after yet another tiresome conversation abut marriage, sex and kids, so I went to bed. In fact I wasn’t feeling to well. I was coughing, sneezing, sore body, and a fever. Thankfully we had sent Vitalito back to the clinic for a new diagnosis, and he did not have Dengue Fever, so I guess I was in the clear as well. We all were!

When the weekend arrived we knew that we Karim had booked a horse ride to El Chorro. So after breakfast we set off once again to El Chorro, this time with a guide. Leaving the Ranch, baby Jameson was sitting outside the stables and he started waving at me. It was fabulous, this baby I had helped sooth when crying for the past 2 weeks was finally responding to me with smiles and waves. Our guide met us half way up the hill, and I for one was happy to have someone come along who knew the way! Hs name is Ramon, and is a local. The river was smaller this time, and the mud drier, and I had the use of a horse  After riding half the hill, I realised my horse was struggling, so I got off and walked next to it. I needed the exercise and the horse needed a break. After all I only really wanted the horse, to keep my feet dry so my cold would not get worse.

We went along more or less the same route as last time, minus the walking in the river for 3 hours!!!!!! It was a nice walk/ride which ended outside the “village” school, picking Guyaba of the trees definitely one of my favourite fruits here, apart from the mango and pineapple of course. The fruit here is so juicy, sweet and incredibly tasty. I have never ever tasted anything like it. Oh and let’ not get me started on the sweet avocados………. WOW, the feeling of eating an avocado right of the branch by the river in the tropical forest is surreal!

Safely back at the farm Keith and I hit the pool. Unfortunately it did not take long before the rain started, so we were nowhere closer to becoming brown! Keith had a nap whilst I sorted out some stuff in my room. I had spoke to Karim earlier that day, and she told me she was departing from Santiago, which happened to be my next destination to get up to the North coast.

Saturday night we had an early dinner, and listened to the rain. Keith wanted to watch a video, so we asked Marshall if we could borrow one of the rooms with TV and DVD player to watch a film. He said that was no problem and that we could even sleep there if we felt like it. Me and Keith did not see the point of sleeping there as we live right next door, but we grabbed the key to 14, and headed off. After going into the first room, and not being able to hook it up to the power, we headed for the next room. After some fiddling about, we got settled in to watch and old movie about priests!!!!!!!!!

Half an hour into the movie we heard a knock……. I shouted out that it was Keith and I watching a video, and we heard Vitolicio head off. 10 minutes later we heard another knock, so I got up to open the door. The open door revealed an angry Marshall, his voice and face left no doubt about the fact he was angry, but I could not understand why!!!! He told us to get out, and asked us what we were doing…. He said the other rooms were full. And that we might need the room, and that we had stayed in there for too long. Me and Keith looked at each other slightly confused. Marshall said “make sure the room is clean after what ever you have been doing”. I by this point was a little angry and upset by his tone of voice, so I said “but you told us we could borrow the room to watch a video, and we haven’t done anything else”. He seemed to have forgotten anything he had said to us earlier.

Keith and I had full understanding of the fact that all the other rooms were booked, and so he needed that one, but it was the tone he used, the words he used, and more than anything the anger! The evening ended up with me and Marshall having a conflict, when I told him that he had to stop talking this way to people, he apologises and told us we could go back in, but I told him that he had to start thinking before speaking, rather than always apologizing after being rude and irrational. He became even more apologetic, but I just walked off and went to bed. It was the first night me and Keith did not speak though the wall before we fell asleep.

That night I decided it was time to go, I could no longer live under the same roof and work for someone like him. Marshall has many good sides, but unfortunately the negative overshadow the positive! Even guests react to his behaviour and way of speaking and “joking”.

The next day I got up early and started packing my bags, in case I could get a lift with Karim to Santiago. I was determined to leave. Keith and I had already decided to go to Bonao for some shopping and pampering, as we never get time during the week. I asked Keith when he awoke if he still wanted to go, and he was still up for it. After breakfast we headed off with Karim as well. After going into one shop, we realised the town was very empty, and that most shops were closed…. We had been told that shops were open all Sunday! So we headed off for an early lunch. After going to the internet café, and wondering about, we headed back to the Ranch to finish packing.

I still hadn’t told Marshall that I was leaving, scared of his reaction. I was truthful, and he took it better than expected. He actually seemed a little upset. He told me thanks for working for him, and that he liked me very much, and though I was a lovely girl. After the hard part was over I fetched my bags and placed them in Karim's car ready for the road trip.

It was very sad to say goodbye to the Ranch and most of the people there. Keith started crying, and Vitalito wouldn’t even give me a hug, he seemed angry I was leaving. I felt bad for leaving them all behind! I felt especially bad for Keith, but also for Margarita and Jameson. Such a great woman and such an adorable baby. My last days at the farm, I had held him in my arms until he fell asleep, he started mimicking me, and his little face would light up when he saw me. I started calling him my little man, and told his mum, that he was the only man in the country I adored and trusted Jameson and his mum came past my room when I was packing, and she was so upset too see me go. I think we both appreciated each other in different ways. I appreciated her as a mum and a genuine kind woman, and she appreciated me for being capable of doing my own laundry, cleaning up after myself, helping her with the baby and caring for her and the boys. She had never before met a “white” person who did anything for themselves!!!! CRAZY!

Karim and I set off, and within a couple of hours, and very much poorer (Karim took a fortune in petrol money and I had to get a cab from airport into town, so it ended up being 9 times more expensive then getting the buss). I got to the hostel in town and found some really friendly people in the common area of the apartment hotel. I only wish the room was of the same calibre as the people…. There were work looking things crawling in my bed when I pulled the covers back!!!! The cockroach by my sink did not seem keen on giving up its room, and the gay bar next door was LOUD!

I stayed up till quite late chatting to 2 guys and a girl on the terrace, and they were all so sweet. One of them even walked me to the local Comedor (Café), for food when I was hungry, and they shared their cheese and crackers with me. They were so different to the other men I had met so far on my journey. These did not once give me a line, or try it on with me, and that was so nice. One of them even tried to get the cockroach out, when I told him I could not sleep in that room…… I was as usual on this trip squealing like a pig every time I went in to the room, to find the hard shell monster still there. The monster disappeared and we searched everywhere for it, but without any luck.

He said goodnight after checking under my bed for more weird and wonderful creatures. I put a tracksuit on and tried to get to sleep with my sleeping bag around my ears, my headlight on, and the fan going at full speed. The heat was unbearable, but I did not want to run the risk of the cockroach in my sleeping bag, so I decided to stay covered up. The noise next door just seems to get higher and higher…. Gay men sure do scream a lot…………. I stayed in bed for an hour, and decide I was not going to get any sleep that night, so I went into the common room, grabbed a rocking chair, put on the telly, and read a book.

As I sat there rocking in my chair (like all Dominicans), I thought of Keith, the ranch and our bedtime rituals, the sounds, and the tranquillity that I had become accustomed to. I missed not having Keith around; I missed the frogs, and the stream. I also knew I had made the right decision in leaving, and move on the new adventures elsewhere.

When the receptionist turned up at 4, I was still awake. When people started going to work, I was still awake. When the day receptionist came, I was still awake and packing for the next bus ride to Sosua! Was I tired? Damn right I was tired, I was knackered!

At 7 I headed off to the bus station. Once there I got told the bus didn’t leave before 8:40, so I waited! I grabbed some empanadas, fresh fruit, and juice for breakfast, and read my book. Juts before the bus arrived I started chatting to the only other person there that looked foreign besides me He was an Italian, middle aged man who was going the same direction. We sat together on the bus, and we chatted away, until the motion of the bus lulled men into a much longed dream state. I did drool on his shoulder, and I did wake up a couple of times having no notion of where I was, who he was and who I was.

Once in Sosua, I got of the bus and headed for the hostel after bargaining with the taxi driver for quite some time…….. I got to the hostel Rocky’s rock and blues bar and Hostel before 11 am. I checked in, got settled, and fell asleep again! 

Lessons learnt:
1. Gentleman come in all ages shapes and sizes

2. Even new friends are hard to leave behind

3. don’t go against your own believes or morals of how to treat others

4. A favour seldom comes cheap

5. Honesty is still the best policy

6. A little faith goes along way

7. Always by your food where the locals go…, Always cheap, and delicious!
8. Always dare to approach and talk to people on your way

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