Cuba

The last country in my one year trip around the world: Cuba.

I had big expectations for Cuba and I really wanted to visit the country as soon as possible, and certainly before any further political changes would take place. I wanted to see Fidel Castro’s Cuba.

I had already travelled through many communist countries in Eastern Europe when I was a child, back in the 80’s and early 90’s, and had been through Russia and China this time around, but Cuba is so different in its own way, socialism under palm trees and salsa rhythms already sounds much more appealing than the colder, defunct version of it. Political slogans and four names/faces can be seen everywhere around Cuba, in each city, in each village, on each motor highway, on each government building, on each and every street corner, everywhere (you got the message, I am sure):
- Jose Marti, the leader of the first Cuban revolution at the end of the 19th century
- Camilo Cienfuegos, commander under Fidel Castro who became slightly too popular and disappeared mysteriously after the Revolution,
- Che Guevara, I guess there is no need to introduce the most famous Argentinean, and
- Fidel Castro himself
I had expected that a cult of personality would have been built around Fidel, such as in North Korea, but it appears that Marti and Che Guevara are considered to be at least as important as Fidel, if not more important than him…of course that is ok with Fidel given that all the others are dead since long…

Cubans are highly educated and most of them hold a university degree. Free education for everyone was a top priority in Fidel’s political agenda and he highly incentivised people to study. The country is for example known for its top quality medical service (Maradona, a good friend of Fidel, and many South American presidents come to Cuba if they need medical treatment). Most policemen will have finished their law curriculum and taxi drivers have multiple university diplomas. My private salsa teacher in Trinidad graduated from university as a civil engineer…of course, there aren’t enough jobs and the tourist industry pays much more anyway... High education levels, together with a strong police force, are probably the main reasons for Cuba being extremely safe, and by far the safest country in all of Central America!

Cuba is a “relatively expensive” country, given that tourists are not allowed to pay with the local currency, the Peso, but with the Peso Convertible, or CUC, which is “worth” about twenty times less than the local currency. Moreover, the tourist industry is heavily regulated, such as inter-city transport, guesthouses, some restaurants and museums where prices are fixed (at a relatively high level) by the government.

The only annoying thing in Cuba (mostly in La Havana though) is that, as a foreigner, you are the target number one of an army of taxi drivers, amateur tour guides, all kinds of commission seekers, imposters, fake merchandise sellers and very nice looking ladies who find you extremely funny, even more handsome and tell you that you are the best dancer they have ever seen and would like to get to know you better (it was the dancing compliment that tipped me off on their profession!). Having travelled for more than 11 months already and been through the Middle East, most of Asia and Central America, all these things could not bother me anymore and I enjoyed my time in Cuba…!


On a sunny day, I flew from Cancun to La Havana. The capital is such a vibrant city, where life spews out from behind the crumbling façades of cramped residences, old cars are driven on large avenues and musicians play salsa and chachacha on street corners and plazas.

I spent about five days in the city, strolling in the streets, glancing into people’s houses, amazed by the mix of architectural styles of its old buildings, visiting churches and museums, educating myself on Cuba’s history or simply sipping good coffees on terraces and people watching on plazas, hiding from a ferocious sun in the shade of a large tree. At night, I would go into a bar and listen to more salsa and drink Mojitos and Cuba Libres before returning to my very kind 80-year old landlady in my Casa Particular (private residence which has been tailored and licensed to operate as bed and breakfast).

There are so many interesting places to visit in the city, be it for their importance in Cuba’s history and culture or simply for their beauty. I particularly liked the Museo de la Revolucion, the Capitolio (the former House of Representatives and currently a museum and art gallery), the Rum museum (no need for explanation I hope) and the Partagas cigar factory. I took several taxi rides in 50-year old Cadillac’s and Chevrolets without any set destination, just for the fun of it…the feeling is just amazing. In addition to many street concerts, I went to La Casa de la Musica to listen to the live concert of Los Van Van, one of the most known Cuban music groups, where I met Abeba and Meti, two very nice girls from London who I would meet again in Trinidad a couple of days later.

After la Havana, I spent two days in Cienfuegos…The city lies close to the see and has a very pretty plaza where I learned how to differentiate between real and fake cigars and smoked several of them (the real ones), while sipping my daily Mojitos and Cuba Libres. I lived outside of the city with a very nice family, entertaining the grand-mother with my travel stories in my broken Spanish, entertaining the five-year old son with my iPod and telling the father that he had a beautiful car, while eating the delicious langoustes that the mother had grilled for me… Leaving this tough life behind me, I went to Trinidad.

Trinidad made me think of Antigua in Guatemala and I immediately loved it. I spent a whole week in that little city…My normal day would start “relatively” early with breakfast at 9-9.30am on the sunny terrace of my Casa Particular, two eggs and toast, a fresh fruit salad, orange juice, a strong cup of coffee and a nice discussion with Lewis, a very funny Scottish photographer who stayed at the same casa as me. I would then walk around town and arrive 15 minutes later at my salsa class…After a one-hour session of salsa with my private teacher, I would then head to the beach and meet up with some friends…until around 4pm when I would start my way back to the city to yet another hour of salsa class. Sweaty, sandy and a bit tired I would go home, take a shower and have a quick nap before having dinner - mostly very nice langouste with Belgian fries and salad. A bottle of 5-year old Havana rum in hand, I would head down with Lewis to the Casa de la Musica at around 9pm and meet up with Abeba and Meti and other friends. A couple of hours later, after having listened to great music, been amazed by the way Cubans dance and tried dancing a bit myself, I would head home, pretty happy and have a good night of sleep. I know, this sounds like a really tough life, but I survived that week without any long-lasting injuries!

On a long travel day, I took the bus from Trinidad to Vinales, on the west coast. A beautiful peaceful and romantic village, Vinales is located in one of the most beautiful areas of Cuba. The Viñales valley is encircled by mountains and its landscape is interspersed with dramatic rocky outcrops. I would say that it looks pretty similar to a mix of Halong Bay in Vietnam (without the water) and Yangshuo in South China. Tobacco and other crops are cultivated on the bottom of the valley, mostly by traditional agriculture techniques. I spent two days in Vinales and hiked off the beaten track through the valley for several hours…impressed by the beauty and the tranquillity of the place.

I returned to La Havana which is only two hours east from Vinales and stayed there for two days, chilling out with Lewis and doing my only souvenir and gifts shopping spree of the whole year.

I flew from La Havana back to Cancun, then Mexico and finally London… Pretty tanned, I went on the tube and then took the train back to Brussels, carrying my backpacks, wearing sandals, a short and a T-shirt in early March....I had a big smile on my face, I just finished a one-year trip around the world…probably one of the most exciting adventures of my life…

Hasta la Victoria Siempre!

Ludwig

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